Moisture meter corrections

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mar13

Minister of Fire
Nov 5, 2018
507
California redwood coast
Hi,

The line repeatedly goes that to get a good moisture content reading, you should bring it inside, warm to 70 degrees, then split to test. When out by the wood pile, the "warm the wood" aspect seems like a PITA, as opposed to just splitting it on the spot outside for testing. Anything wrong with just using one of the adjustment tables such as the attached pdf to correct for outside temperatures? (In my climate, add 4% as a conservative estimate.)

Then, to a lesser degree, there is the wood species effect (https://www.delmhorst.com/correction-tables#species) where, for example with alder, I'd add another percent or so.

I'm sure this has been addressed in the years past, but I couldn't find it after a quick search.
 

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The correlations seem fairly linear.
You should be able to test some pcs outside, then bring them inside to warm up and test again the same way.
Would be able to find out fairly quickly if the chart is worth using or not.

[Hearth.com] Moisture meter corrections
 
Thanks for the graph. Basically, as long as the wood isn't below 20 degrees, a 15 percent m.c. reading will suggest your likely under 20 in reality.

I thought about doing the experiment just for kicks, just haven't made the time considering the control for variables..same age wood, same dimensions, etc. I need to write down these ideas for when the kids get old enough to do science fair projects.
 
I was bringing in some Siberian Elm yesterday which has been split/stacked for 3 summers. Split a piece outside, immediately checked the moisture which read 22%. I am only assuming it's decently under 20% once brought in, kept at normal room temp (lets say for a day) and then checked. Regardless, it's going into the stove.
 
The biggest percentage of time there isn't going to be enough of a percent difference to give a rat's as.
 
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I have a moisture meter, one that has a dial and an led. Turn the dial to 20, poke the prongs, if the led lights - wood is no good. Given the circumstances though, I'm not about to buy pellets, pallets, dry fireplace logs etc. It's all going in as is, hoping that I've done my best to dry it down. It seems it may matter for the one off dealing with very wet wood, and deciding to use or not. Or for segregating dry vs less dry. If it's that bad, I would be able to tell by how much water is dripping off of it, or by how much is boiling out of the ends (it rarely does, except for the first year). But if it's the best I've got years wise, then - it's going in regardless, and I'll give it more air and deal with it.
I used the thing a few times, it was a nice novelty, glad I didn't pay anything for it. I'm not sure where it's at anymore, in a drawer somewhere.
 
I don't use my moisture meter often but I'm glad I have one. Yesterday I was working down some rounds I've had for a few months. The tree had been standing dead for at least 10 years. The owners topped it 2 years ago and I got some of that, <10% burned it that year. They finally had the meat of the tree taken down in April this year. A bunch of 30" diameter rounds about 20-24 " long. SIL helped me get them home and they sat here til yesterday. Muscled them onto the splitter and split them to three easily managed pieces. Cut those to 16 and then split for stove. For laughs I thought I would see just how dry this was. Four inches in was 14%, eight inches in was 23% and 12 inches in pegged my meter at 50%. The outer splits went into this years supply, the others will just have to wait.