Moving here from the wood side.

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Brian VT

Minister of Fire
Jul 30, 2008
817
Southern VT
I got a lot of great info. here at Hearth.com when I installed a wood stove and stainless chimney years ago, and I think I gave back even more info. than I received. And I enjoyed all of it. This place is great.
Now I'm looking at adding a propane insert into my existing masonry fireplace so I'm over here in the gas forum seeking advice.

- My fireplace floor has an ash dump and a cleanout door below in the basement. So I guess the gas line and electrical can be routed up through that?

-The chimney damper is at the top of the firebox. It's just a metal drop "door" with a notched bar to open it and keep it open. When fully open it won't permit a 4" liner to fit through. It looks like it may be easily removable (I haven't tried yet) and then there would be enough room for a 4" liner to pass through (on an angle). Does this sound easy enough for me to deal with? Will I need a "block off plate" like when using a wood stove in this situation? Is a flexible liner the best option or is it preferable to use "hard" pipe when possible?

-I shopped online for 4" liner kits. They range from $150 at HD to $650 at the online store that I bought my ($1300) wood stove chimney from. What's the difference? I did read one review on the HD kit that said it didn't include the "connector" but the others had good reviews. This is a single-story "ranch" so I guess 25' will be more than enough.

-We're looking at a used (4 yrs. old) Regency U31-LP10. Any general advice on buying used and maybe your experience with this model/brand? I'll probably go look at it/buy it tomorrow (1/31/2021).

Looking forward to your advice and comments,
Brian VT (now in Maine)
 
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**My fireplace floor has an ash dump and a cleanout door below in the basement. So I guess the gas line and electrical can be routed up through that?**

You CAN run both that way, but drilling thru the masonry &
into the ash dump near the top of the basement wall & pulling
both the electric & gas line thru that hole is easier than trying
to get it thru the ash clean out from the bottom...

**Does this sound easy enough for me to deal with?**

If you are at all handy, removing the damper plate shouldn't be too
hard to figure out...

Will I need a "block off plate" like when using a wood stove in this situation?

You can get by with merely stuffing unfaced fiberglass insulation around the
liner in the damper area & again around the liner at the top of the flue &
just below the cap.

**Is a flexible liner the best option or is it preferable to use "hard" pipe when possible?**

A one-piece flexible liner is the best bet.

** I did read one review on the HD kit that said it didn't include the "connector" **

Your liner should connect directly to the appliance draft hood.
See page 14 in the manual:


**We're looking at a used (4 yrs. old) Regency U31-LP10. Any general advice on buying used and maybe your experience with this model/brand?**

Not familiar with this particular model, because the hearth shop I work at does not offer B-Vent models.
They tend to cause extreme cold drafts in the room they are installed in. The combustion air is drawn from
that room, & when that air needs to be replenished, it has to come in from the outside of your home...
 
Wow! That was quick. Thank you very much for the good info.
I did wonder about the fresh air supply but this stove won't be a main heat source. It will mostly be used for ambiance and during power outages.
It sounds like I'm good to go. Other than maybe some advice about what to watch out for when buying a used gas fireplace.
 
**some advice about what to watch out for when buying a used gas fireplace **

Not much can go wrong with the gas units, but if it's been burning LP gas,
you want to look at the burner(s) to see if they are corroded.
A little surface rust isn't too worrisome, but if there are signs
of corrosion near the burner ports, you might want to contact
your local Regency dealer to make sure a replacement burner(s) is available.
Look at the pilot assembly to see if there is damage to the thermopile &
thermocouple -IF those components are in there...
 
Good info. Thanks again.
 
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