Moving my wood stove
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Okay, the stove was moved and the new floors are going in real soon. I have a guy coming over tomorrow to give me an estimate on building a new hearth. We don't want to use brick this time so I'm thinking of some sort of tile, maybe slate or something. What have you guys used instead of brick for your hearth and surround?
My manual for the stove keeps referring to brick but I'm assuming because the maual was printed in the 80s it's probably dated? I'm sure that tile and stone would be acceptable?
Here's a scan from my manual......
My manual for the stove keeps referring to brick but I'm assuming because the maual was printed in the 80s it's probably dated? I'm sure that tile and stone would be acceptable?
Here's a scan from my manual......
What that describes is a manufacturer's hearth requirement consisting of a good deal more than just non-combustible ember protection. A stack of a brick atop a piece of sheet metal or a brick atop a sheet of millboard...that's telling me that some R-value is necessary. I'd make a real rough guess that the brick/millboard stack would have an R-value approaching 1.5. I don't know what to suggest other than contact your local Authority Having Jurisdiction and come up with a plan that makes everyone happy.
Short of that, if it were my house, I'd at the very least lay a sheet of 26 gauge sheet metal down then the decorative stone/tile/whatever on top of that...meeting or exceeding the size requirement shown. Rick
Short of that, if it were my house, I'd at the very least lay a sheet of 26 gauge sheet metal down then the decorative stone/tile/whatever on top of that...meeting or exceeding the size requirement shown. Rick
Thanks for the reply fossil! Yeah, I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if I didn't do this right, I think I'm going to put a piece of 2" thick blue stone and some stone veneer for the surround. Would it be a bad idea to use two 45 degree elbows to get my stove closer to the wall? Would I have updraft issues if I did that?
A picture is worth a 1000 words....... This not my stove, just a picture I found online.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
So you folks describe supporting the weight of the stove by the bottom of the firebox. Not the legs. Are all stoves capable of this? I would think that the cast iron ash pan would easily break if I tried to lift the stove with a jack beneath my hearthstone.
Definitely support it by the legs. Our ashpan would be flattened instantly if I tried to lift the stove there. Instead I slide the stove onto a plywood board before moving it or leave it bolted to the pallet if new.
How close your stove can be to anything depends on what the anything is made of (combustible or non) and the clearances from combustibles shown in the manufacturer's manual. That will tell you whether or not offsetting your flue buys you anything in terms of "closer to the wall". Anytime you add a change in flue direction, you introduce more resistance to flow of the gas stream, so yes, your draft will be affected. Whether or not 2 45's will make a noticeable difference in your setup I can't say. A picture of this stove and the intended location sure would help...I'm kinda flying blind here, and I don't like that because this is important stuff. Rick
I just moved my 450 lb stove with a furniture dolly, worked great. Slid the dolly under the stove and started adding wood underneath, lifting one end at a time until the legs were off the ground. Then unbolted the legs. Next started taking the wood back out , one end at a time until the stove was on a single piece of wood at each end , still on the dolly. Now a low center of gravity. Next I secured the stove to the dolly with two ratchet straps, placing card board under the straps where they came around on the corners. Then simply wheeled the stove off my hearth pad and out of the house. Worked great! And yes I took off the door, heat shields, bottom ash pan and firebrick out to get rid of some weight.
KaptJaq
Minister of Fire
What kind of wall is behind the stove? If it is made of combustible materials you cannot move the stove closer than 25 inches from the wall. The single wall stove pipe must be at least 15.5 inches away. If there is a side wall it must be 27 inches from the side of the stove. This information is from the label on the back of the stove. The same label also requires a hearth pad of at least 3/4 inch asbestos or equivalent. I'm not sure what the R value is for 3/4 asbestos but 3/4 inch mineral fiber board on 26 gauge sheet metal with a cement board/tile top should probably do it.
The stove you have was tested in June 1988 and appears to be a Harmony catalytic stove. What condition is the cat in?
KaptJaq
KaptJaq
Minister of Fire
Sorry, I was relaying the information as presented on the stove's certification label. I forgot to take into account changes in standards since its testing date of June 1988.
Is the manual you have for the catalytic or non-catalytic version of the stove?
KaptJaq
BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
Works just fine with the Heritage.
And the Defiant.
And the Vigilant.
All were put on a dolly and were sitting on the ash pan casting or the bottom of the stove (the vigilant).
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
Wow, no kidding? Rather than a jack head you used cribbing under the ash pan but above the dolly to elevate the stove until the legs cleared the ground right? On the heritage, the intake plenum is cast into the ash pan assembly and makes an odd shaped base. While risky, this method sure seems effective for a one man operation.
BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
Yep. I used 2x4 planks with the dolly to increase clearances. Slide dolly under stove. Lift to one side, insert plank. Lift to other side, insert plank. Repeat until legs are off the ground. Then wheel stove to desired location.
My wall is 13-1/2" from the stove pipe but I'm putting up a brick or stone surround along with a stone base for the stove to sit on.
After reading the rest of my manual especially after you mentioned the cat, I believe the cat is bad. I noticed the last couple of years the creosote build up in the chimney was real bad! I've been using the stove 10 years now and the previous owners for 3 years. I'm not sure how long this stove has been in this house but I don't think the cat was ever replaced. Can I even get a replacement for this stove or should I just invest in a new stove? I'm really nervous with this stove now.......
Wood Duck
Minister of Fire
Tile or a piece of stone may not necessarily provide enough thermal insulation to meet the requirements of the stove. Of course the stone itself is fire resistant, but if the stone allows too much heat to get through it to the floor below, the floor could ignite (if the floor is some material like wood that burns). You may need to add some non-combustile material such as cement board (only certain brands are acceptable) below the stone to provide extra insulation. Simply using a tile or stone surface material may not always be enough. This varies between stoves. Some require only a non-combustible surface material, other stoves require a prescibed R-value.
Exactly what I did , but I just took off the legs. Adding a planks allowed the stove to be supported right where you wanted it, not doing any damage. I think much nicer to move then a hand cart .
KaptJaq
Minister of Fire
Let the forum know what you plan to do (materials, thickness, etc) for the surround/hearth and the clearances you will have. I'm sure the members here will comment and guide you in the right direction.
If the cat is over 5 years old it is probably shot. There are a number of places that sell replacement catalytic converters at reasonable prices. I don't have a cat but someone with a cat stove could probably recommend a source... A new stove will be more efficient and can give you the latest in technology and safety features. It is your budget and decision.
From what I've seen it is a reasonable stove. If it is good condition and not warped or cracked from over-firing it can be safely re-installed and used. Replace the cat, watch your CTC (clearances to combustibles),check the thermal resistance on the pad, and ask if you are in doubt. My Godin stove was originally installed in 1979 and is still used 24/7 during the season.
If you do have any concerns about the stove get a professional to inspect it.
I would suggest that you start new threads relating to specific questions going forward...
KaptJaq
Thanks for the replies KaptJaq!
My wife and I had a talk this morning and we've decided to hold off on the new floors until spring which will allow us to purchase a new stove and replace the hearth. Now I need to find a good stove store that will do the install as well. Anyone from the Central Mass are know of a good stove place??
You can still get catalysts for the Efel. This was a good heater. If it's in good condition I wouldn't be overly concerned. A replacement cat is available here: http://www.woodstovecombustors.com/combustor_search.html. Just type in Efel in the search box. You should come up with this result:
CC-303 Size 2.6 x 14.3 x 2.5 25 Cells Canned - $181
If you decide on going for a new stove, can you post a bit more information about the house and space that is to be heated? A picture of the current setup would also be helpful. And let us know a bit more about the style stove that appeals to both of you.
CC-303 Size 2.6 x 14.3 x 2.5 25 Cells Canned - $181
If you decide on going for a new stove, can you post a bit more information about the house and space that is to be heated? A picture of the current setup would also be helpful. And let us know a bit more about the style stove that appeals to both of you.
I was going to replace the cat but after wrestling with it this morning I can't get the bolts out that hold the cat in place. They have a phillips slot in them and they won't budge, so I took my map gas to it to heat them up and the heads of two of them already snapped off! The only bolt I was able to get out was bent to all hell, 7 bolts hold it in place.
Yes, that can happen, particularly if they haven't been touched in a couple decades. They can be drilled out and tapped if you are worried about reselling.
We are looking for a catalytic stove, something with a 10 hour burn time, rear 6" flue. Cast Iron and max budget will be about $2200. I really like the Harmon Oakwood but it's a little over budget and it looks like it just top vent stove.
Here is a picture (crappy cell phone picture, sorry) of my hearth and stove before I removed it all. How much do you think it would cost me to replace that hearth with brick again? I've got a couple guys giving me quotes but it's been two weeks and I haven't heard back from them!
KaptJaq
Minister of Fire
I would choose a stove first then get quotes on the hearth. You have to make sure that the thermal resistance ("R" value) of the hearth is adequate for the stove.
KaptJaq
That's true, but when I asked for the quotes I was intending on putting my old stove on it. I'm hoping to go looking tommorow but most of the stove stores around here are closed for the long weekend.
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