MS 290 Vs 360

[Paco]

I have a Stihl MS290, that's about 6 or 7 years old. My father-in-law recently decided he didn't need a chainsaw anymore, so he gave me his MS 360 (about 10 years old).

I don't need 2 saws, so I was going to sell one of them. Since it's a "pro" model, I assumed that the 360 would be superior, but I used it a bit this weekend and was unimpressed (though I did notice it was a bit lighter.)

The 360 looks like it's been run fairly hard, and hasn't been cleaned or tuned for a while.

If I put some work into it (or, realistically, pay someone to put some work into it) will it noticably out-perform the 290?

 

[mikefrommaine]

It should.

How's the chain on the 360? A fresh chain does wonders for saws.

Have you checked the piston?

 

[Boog]

Sounds like that 360 is just a tired old saw in need of some TLC. It should noticeably out perform your 290 all things being equal.

 

[MasterMech]

Got a compression tester? That will tell you a lot about the condition of the 360. Since the 360 sells well (as does the 290), I would fix it and then decide.

 

[lukem]

A properly running 360 should noticeably outperform a 290. My BILs and FIL all run 290s and my 361 definitely has more attitude.

 

[Paco]

Okay. It sounds like its worth putting some effort into getting the 360 running properly. I appreciate the feedback. Thanks.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I have a Stihl MS290, that's about 6 or 7 years old. My father-in-law recently decided he didn't need a chainsaw anymore, so he gave me his MS 360 (about 10 years old).

I don't need 2 saws, so I was going to sell one of them. Since it's a "pro" model, I assumed that the 360 would be superior, but I used it a bit this weekend and was unimpressed (though I did notice it was a bit lighter.)

The 360 looks like it's been run fairly hard, and hasn't been cleaned or tuned for a while.

If I put some work into it (or, realistically, pay someone to put some work into it) will it noticably out-perform the 290?

Try a new spark plug, a new chain, and clean the air filter before you decide you are officially unimpressed

 

[punchy]

i have the 362 and it is waaayyy faster cutting, more power than my buddies 290. i would assume the 360 would do the same.

 

[DexterDay]

Yep. Sell the 290 and invest in the 360. The 36 series (034 Super/036/036 Pro/361/362) are all fantastic saws. Some of the most sought after units out there (044/440) being the other contender. I personally have had 6 036's. love'em

The 360 is a 62cc Pro saw that has many attributes that will make the 290 pizz the bed. 290/029 is a nice saw. But the 360 has a better anti-vibe and is 10 times easier to work on. Prob my favorite saw to run. (MM will call me out, but for Pro saws, the 036 Pro takes my cake) I did love a 455 Rancher at one time... A lot..

Also have a 361 now. Power is about the same. Seems the 036 has it up top. Where the 361 has more torque. But the 361 is ridin on springs. So the AV is MUCH better.

 

[clemsonfor]

Sell the 290. The o36 should out cut even a 390 which I have. I have muff molded my 390 and I can easily out cut my budiea 1 yr old 290. I can do 2 cuts to his one with my 390 and a well running 036 should do the same but be lighter. The 390 modded will sure throw some chips in green oak with a sharp chain.

 

[MasterMech]

MM will call me out

Who me?

 

[Paco]

Sell the 290. The o36 should out cut even a 390 which I have. I have muff molded my 390 and I can easily out cut my budiea 1 yr old 290. I can do 2 cuts to his one with my 390 and a well running 036 should do the same but be lighter. The 390 modded will sure throw some chips in green oak with a sharp chain.

Okay, I'll bite. Should I muffler mod the 360? What exactly does that entail? Can I do it myself? How much does it cost? Is that the same as "porting"?

 

[clemsonfor]

I'm no expert but the pro saws are pretty powerfully for the size already. They can be modded but the gains are not as great.

Porting is either polishing and or removing more metal out of intake and exhaust ports. Your thinking of dual port mufflers where they add another hole or port in a muffler mod

 

[DexterDay]

A muff mod is just opening up the exhaust outlet. Whether you make a second outlet, or enlarge the existing. As for gains on a Pro saw. You get around 10%, regardless of saw or brand. The main benefit is a cooler running engine (more power and a loud saw are nice too ) but an easier breathing engine will run cooler and last longer... All while making more power.

Porting and/or lowering squish, is grinding material out of intake, exhaust, and transfers. I wouldn't suggest jumping into this yourself, without reading a lot of threads on AS. One wrong touch, or widen a port to much and you'll snag a ring.


If your muffler has any "guts"? Then removing the baffles will help, but increasing the exhaust outlet is a must. Better sound More power And a cooler running saw

Look on FeeBay and check for a deflector. Some models have a more desirable or removable deflector. The 288xp is a nice choice

 

[MasterMech]

Okay, I'll bite. Should I muffler mod the 360? What exactly does that entail? Can I do it myself? How much does it cost? Is that the same as "porting"?

Run it stock first. Then play with the muffler if you decide you want to. You might find yourself very happy with it stock. I did the dual-port mufflers on my 460s mainly because it was obvious how badly choked up the original mufflers were.

 

[StihlHead]

360 is the far better saw. Even a modified 310 would not keep pace with it (same as a stock 390). It has a far better engine that can be worked on and easily fixed. It also has better plastic, and it is one of the better saws that Stihl has made. If it is tired, I would recommend a new set of Caber rings on Ebay. A guy in Greece sells them there for about $10. They will boost your compression and really wake up a tired saw like that w/o doing any engine porting. The muffler cover on the 360 can easily be opened up and the stock holes made bigger or put more holes in the muffler exit area to make it breath better. If you change the rings or modify the muffler in any way, make sure that you retune the carb before running it in wood, or you will run it lean and burn it up. You want to open up the H screw to run richer with more air flow. WOT it should burple or 4-srtroke out of the wood, and clean up sound-wise in the wood.

 

[Paco]

360 is the far better saw. Even a modified 310 would not keep pace with it (same as a stock 390). It has a far better engine that can be worked on and easily fixed. It also has better plastic, and it is one of the better saws that Stihl has made. If it is tired, I would recommend a new set of Caber rings on Ebay. A guy in Greece sells them there for about $10. They will boost your compression and really wake up a tired saw like that w/o doing any engine porting. The muffler cover on the 360 can easily be opened up and the stock holes made bigger or put more holes in the muffler exit area to make it breath better. If you change the rings or modify the muffler in any way, make sure that you retune the carb before running it in wood, or you will run it lean and burn it up. You want to open up the H screw to run richer with more air flow. WOT it should burple or 4-srtroke out of the wood, and clean up sound-wise in the wood.

Hmmmm... What do you mean exactly by "burple or four stroke"

 

[StihlHead]

Hmmmm... What do you mean exactly by "burple or four stroke"

When you tune the H screw richer the sound of the saw will become uneven at WOT (wide open throttle) with the saw out of wood, which is called burple (slang term, but apt once you figure it out). It is also called 4-stroking, as the sound is more like a 4-stroke engine than a 2-stroke. Madsens has a good tutorial about tuning chainsaw carbs online with some exhaust tuning sound WAV files that explains it at this site:

(broken link removed to http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm)

Madsens, if you do not know, is the ultimate logger's chainsaw shop in Washington State. Baileys is a close second in California (I have been to both).

One thing to point out about tuning saws is that you need to have the bar and chain on there that you are intending to use, before you tune the carb, with the chain tension set right. Putting on a longer bar will slow the saw down, and putting on a shorter one will speed it up.

 

[Paco]

When you tune the H screw richer the sound of the saw will become uneven at WOT (wide open throttle) with the saw out of wood, which is called burple (slang term, but apt once you figure it out). It is also called 4-stroking, as the sound is more like a 4-stroke engine than a 2-stroke. Madsens has a good tutorial about tuning chainsaw carbs online with some exhaust tuning sound WAV files that explains it at this site:

(broken link removed to http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm)

Madsens, if you do not know, is the ultimate logger's chainsaw shop in Washington State. Baileys is a close second in California (I have been to both).

One thing to point out about tuning saws is that you need to have the bar and chain on there that you are intending to use, before you tune the carb, with the chain tension set right. Putting on a longer bar will slow the saw down, and putting on a shorter one will speed it up.

Okay, thanks. That helps. Guess I'll need to figure out how tune it right off the bat because I dropped it off at the shop w/o the bar.

 

[StihlHead]

If they are a reputable shop they will put a bar on to tune it up with.