MY Englander 30NC has arrived and is in the truck in the shop!!!

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

slickschoppers

New Member
Dec 1, 2017
65
iowa
Today, my steel roof kit should arrive from Selkirk, I have the day off tomorrow and a friend coming up to help install the steel roof kit and the Class A chimney will be completely installed!!!!

The Stove arrived at Home Depot yesterday, and I picked it up. it's currently patiently waiting in the back of my truck in the shop still on the pallet.

SO.... a quick flurry of questions before tomorrow.


1. I noticed there are a few small gaps between the fire bricks maybe a 1/4 inch? is it normal? or should the fire bricks be very tight together?

2. the stove came with a pedestal mounted, but also a box with LEGS in it!! if I choose to remove the pedestal and install the legs, does that affect the safe heat distance to the combustible flooring? I hope that makes sense... I have a hearth pad that is 39 x 52.5 that is the minimum hearth pad size. does that distance change if I install the legs instead of the pedestal?

3. OK.. last question. they say to start a few "smaller break in fires" how much wood? I know not to load it full to the top of the fire brick,, but are they talking just 3 small splits? or half full????

I'll be using ash and soft maple or manufactured logs from tractor supply. what temperature should I shoot for on a small break in fire?????


4. anything that you guys recommend I should double check or verify on the stove before starting the first fire?

(I'm already taking pictures, and I'll post some soon)
 
The stove needs an R=1.5 hearth pad for either legs or pedestal. Just use some 1-2" kindling for a first fire to dry out the firebrick. Maybe just 6-8 sticks. Then go ahead and have a decent sized fire. Be prepared for a strong smokey smell when the stove starts getting over 400F as the paint breaks in.
 
  • Like
Reactions: slickschoppers
Let the fun begin! Brick gaps are normal. Your manual may explain any leg kit difference? If you can easily move the beast you may want to do a first burn outdoors. It will likely really stink on the first couple burns. Looks like your install is happening just in time. Real winter is scheduled here in a few days!
 
  • Like
Reactions: slickschoppers
yep, the ceiling kit goes in tomorrow.... FINGERS CROSSED THAT THE FORCAST IS CORRECT!! it should be 40+ degrees tomorrow.. THEN,,, drop like a rock down to the 20's to teens!!!

if everything goes as planned, it will be installed JUST in time!!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Woody Stover
I've been on hold with England.... they answered,, and as always... they confirmed exactly what you guys said.

1. smaller brick gaps are normal

2. the stove was tested with both the pedestal and legs, same hearth dimensions for either one. 39 x 52.5 minimum. 1.5 R value

3. for a second I thought I might have been talking to Begreen, he recommended putting in kindling with 6 to 8, 1" to 2" sticks, burn a couple of those then go for the full fire.

He said if I did decide to burn it outside first, which is fine... that if I only have a couple pieces of chimney say 6' worth,, leave the door cracked to get it "good and hot" and create a draft, as 6' of pipe isn't going to create enough draft without the door cracked..

thanks again everyone!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Good luck with it! Exciting times. .....and don't forget the pics!
 
When you move it around, take out the firebrick (take a photo first so you will know how they go back in) and take the door off (it is held on with pins that will slide right out). The stove will be lighter and you will not have to worry about glass or bricks being broken.
I use the pedestal since I had to sweep under the stove a lot for bits of wood, bark, etc when mine was on the legs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Squisher
With the pedestal you can slide two 2x4 sticks of lumber under the firebox, strap them in place with tie down straps, and two guys can pick up and walk around with the stove easy peasy. Imagine it looking like a wheelbarrow with four handles. Super easy to lift and no jacking around with removing the door or bricks.

The stoves all come with legs in a box. I really don’t like this stove on legs. The pedestal is cleaner and very stable.
 
With the pedestal you can slide two 2x4 sticks of lumber under the firebox, strap them in place with tie down straps, and two guys can pick up and walk around with the stove easy peasy. Imagine it looking like a wheelbarrow with four handles. Super easy to lift and no jacking around with removing the door or bricks.

So I see you haven't met my brother in law. ==c
 
  • Like
Reactions: Highbeam
Let the fun begin! Brick gaps are normal. Your manual may explain any leg kit difference? If you can easily move the beast you may want to do a first burn outdoors. It will likely really stink on the first couple burns. Looks like your install is happening just in time. Real winter is scheduled here in a few days!

My recollection from havng my 30-NCH installed Nov. 2014:

Legs = No Outside Air Kit = No Mobile Home installation (which requires the OAK).

Pedestal = OAK

I went with the pedestal because I wanted the OAK. I'm damn glad my wife liked the pedestal look, otherwise, I'd still be in the doghouse!
 
it's odd.. i took the pedestal off to install the legs, the same tube that you hook up to be OAK compliant,,,, is still there when the stove is on legs....

I wonder why the pedestal makes a difference if OAK pipe is attached to the stove and not the pedestal?????

just wondering is all....

I'll do another post with first pics of it installed and fired up.
 
on and I think in the manual is says to leave a lot of the ashes, for more even heat, the spaces end up full anyway. I just clean some around the dog house when cold starting leave the rest there is less possibility of air leaks, I don't use the ash thing either. make sure you check for air gaps in the door seal, dollar bill test. mine was flat and the bottom and leaked, puffed it up on the side, good now
 
I've never used the ash drawer in my 30-NCH.

After the first year, I started using one of these, work mucho better for both capacity and less dust in the house:

[Hearth.com] MY Englander 30NC has arrived and is in the truck in the shop!!!
 
Last edited by a moderator: