My Raised Hearth Pad Project for mobile home

[sequoia]

Inspired by all of you I have made the plunge. I'm using 2 x 10's. I plan on putting 1/2 inch plywood down then 1/4 inch durock and then tile. I drilled a fresh air hole at the back point, its hard to see, out the side wall.
What do you think?

 

[begreen]

For rigidity I would go with 1/2" durock. I'd also prolly use 3/4" plywood to make things nice and stout. Is the outlet going to be in the surface of the top of the hearth? I think I would just raise it in the wall instead.

 

[sequoia]

OAK will go below the hearth then out the side wall. Want to it to be as unseen as possible. I'll upgrade to thicker layers. Thanks.

 

[begreen]

Good deal. The OAK plan sounds good too. The outlet I meant is the electrical outlet.

 

[Highbeam]

I vote for 3/4" ply as well but 1/4" durock is fine unless you need the R value of 1/2". The cost of 3/4" isn't much more and the rigidity is much better than the 7/16" stuff that they call 1/2".

I would also not drop the OAK into the hearth. I had no choice since I was on an inside wall but if that back wall is an exterior wall and you're doing a wall penetration anyways then avoiding the drop into the hearth will save bends and make for an easier suck. Also will make replacement of a damaged OAK tube easier.

 

[Highbeam]

OAK will go below the hearth then out the side wall. Want to it to be as unseen as possible. I'll upgrade to thicker layers. Thanks.

The princess can be 6" from the wall. The drop from the OAK nipple to the ground might be more visible and longer than if you went horizontal. Minor detail though and both will work.

 

[sequoia]

I'm treating this as an alcove setup. So the stove will sit at a 45 degree plus to go straight up with the pipe I have to move the stove out a ways, therefore, I want to go straight down with the OAK.

 

[sequoia]

Making progress.

I got 13 feet of total chimney.

Should have the stove in by late November.

 

[sequoia]

The tree directly behind the chimney is coming out. So less interference with draft. Box elder, so no loss except shade.

 

[Highbeam]

13 feet with a thin, flat, roof? How much above the roofline? You'll want that stove set soon, isn't it heating season there yet?

 

[sequoia]

13 feet with a thin, flat, roof? How much above the roofline? You'll want that stove set soon, isn't it heating season there yet?

8ft above 5 inside

Should be 20 degrees this Saturday. Furnace will be needed for a little longer.

 

[sequoia]

For rigidity I would go with 1/2" durock. I'd also prolly use 3/4" plywood to make things nice and stout. Is the outlet going to be in the surface of the top of the hearth? I think I would just raise it in the wall instead.

Took your advice. Putting outlet in the wall.

 

[sequoia]

Freshly grouted. Next comes the oak trim along edge and facing the base.

 

[sequoia]

You may notice that the wall is wood paneling. The stove will sit at a 45 degree like an alcove setup. The back corners of the stove will be 8inches from the wall and back of the stove will be at least 12 inches from back corner of hearth. Plus I'll have a blower on the back which acts as a heat shield and it will have side shields. Based on your collective knowledge, will this be adequate clearance?

 

[Trktrd]

Nice job. I have a similar install and wish I had raised it. The carpet in front of the stove has gotten a bit "crunchy" over the years. My walls are drywall and do get pretty warm behind the stove. I'd keep a close watch on the wood paneling. You may want to consider some wall protection. Get yourself a window fan also. That Princess is going to cook you out of there. My windows in the stove room stay open pretty much all winter until it gets into single digits, then only 1 window stays open.

 

[begreen]

With the side and rear shielding it should be ok. The minimum spec is 6" from the corners to the wall.

 

[sequoia]

Nice job. I have a similar install and wish I had raised it. The carpet in front of the stove has gotten a bit "crunchy" over the years. My walls are drywall and do get pretty warm behind the stove. I'd keep a close watch on the wood paneling. You may want to consider some wall protection. Get yourself a window fan also. That Princess is going to cook you out of there. My windows in the stove room stay open pretty much all winter until it gets into single digits, then only 1 window stays open.

Where I live it gets much colder.

 

[Highbeam]

You may notice that the wall is wood paneling. The stove will sit at a 45 degree like an alcove setup. The back corners of the stove will be 8inches from the wall and back of the stove will be at least 12 inches from back corner of hearth. Plus I'll have a blower on the back which acts as a heat shield and it will have side shields. Based on your collective knowledge, will this be adequate clearance?

Yes. Spec says 6" and you exceed the minimum by 33%. The only assumption is double wall pipe vertical, and rear fan kit which you have confirmed.

 

[sequoia]

Check on all accounts.

 

[sequoia]

First fire and then this evening letting her cruise. Feels great. 3-8inches of snow by Saturday. Just in time!
Thanks for all your help!

 

[lexybird]

Looks great , i will say though that if it was me I'd add some kind of heat shield on that paneled wall

 

[sequoia]

So, after the install I measured the distance from the back corner of the stove to the wall. It is 9 inches and from the back of the stove to the back corner of the hearth is 20". Using an IR gun measured the temp of the wall nearest the stove. With the stove running at 630 degrees on top, the side of stove measured about 210, the wall measured 124 degrees tops.

An earlier post included the comment that a wall temp of 170 would spell trouble. I will continue to monitor future fires and consider the need for a heat shield.

Thanks for your concern for our safety. I share your concerns and will be proactive.

 

[brenndatomu]

An earlier post included the comment that a wall temp of 170 would spell trouble. I will continue to monitor future fires and consider the need for a heat shield.

From what I understand pyrolysis doesn't start until over 200*F. That's why most furnace limits switches are set to cut the burner off when plenum/duct temps go over ~200*

 

[begreen]

Pyrolysis will lower the ignition point of wood over time. There are cases of 180F hot water pipe causing pyrolysis. Splinters and small pieces of wood like those around a hole augured in wood will change fastest.