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Mir77

Member
Dec 28, 2012
19
I have a Mt Vernon AE manufactured in 2007 that may need a new control board. Local shop wants $779.
I found one on eBay for $350, but the part number is SRV7000-456, not the SRV7000-330 in the manual. Anyone know if this is a viable replacement part?

History is I replaced blown igniter last season only to have it cycle once and blow. I had the stove serviced Monday and the tech said there is no power in the wire from the control board to the igniter, and determined that I need a new control board as well as igniter. The stove calls for and drops pellets but the igniter won’t get hot.
Please help! Is this even worth fixing?
 
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BigJohnfromCT

Feeling the Heat
Dec 29, 2012
284
Danbury, CT
FWIW, my MVAE was manufactured in late 2010 or early 2011 and I'm having some intermittent problems that point to the control board. I was quoted the same cost from the dealer. If it's the board, I won't hesitate to replace it. The MVAE is a great stove and a real work horse. Others may disagree but that's my thinking. Good luck
 

kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,489
Iowa
That is the right number for a control board. They have updated them thru the years. But before you buy one, I would take yours apart and see if the fuse is blown that is inside of it. That would be a reason for no power from it to igniter. And when you install an igniter, make sure to run wires up thru bracket, to keep them out of the way of the auto clean, or they can get shorted out. And they make a wire harness for the igniter that has inline fuses in it, to keep from having to tear apart the control board. My AE is one of the originals, but I have kept up with all the updates for it and my customers. Love the AE. kap
 
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Mir77

Member
Dec 28, 2012
19
That is the right number for a control board. They have updated them thru the years. But before you buy one, I would take yours apart and see if the fuse is blown that is inside of it. That would be a reason for no power from it to igniter. And when you install an igniter, make sure to run wires up thru bracket, to keep them out of the way of the auto clean, or they can get shorted out. And they make a wire harness for the igniter that has inline fuses in it, to keep from having to tear apart the control board. My AE is one of the originals, but I have kept up with all the updates for it and my customers. Love the AE. kap

So the srv7000-456 will work if blown fuse isn’t the issue and I need to buy the control board? Is the wire harness readily available? Any idea of the part number? I also definitely need a new igniter as the last one is blown with a hole in it.
thanks!
m
 
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Mir77

Member
Dec 28, 2012
19
confirmed the control board in my MVAE is actually the 456. The fuse looks pretty crispy so I will try that first. Sure hope it’s a $7 and not $700+ fix. Fingers crossed.
 

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kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,489
Iowa
And make sure how you put your wire harness's back on the board. Don't mix up the two thermos wires and make sure they are going on the right direction. And be gentle with them. And part # for wire harness with fuses is srv70034-273. Or at least the last time I looked. kap
 
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Mir77

Member
Dec 28, 2012
19
I replaced the fuse and the igniter only to find the techs did not leave the screw and wingnut. Anyone have any idea what size these are ? Presumably I can pick them up at Home Depot or the like?
 
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kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,489
Iowa
It usually is just a wing nut/bolt all in one. should be able to take the igniter to a hardware store to find one. Needs a washer too. kap
 
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Mir77

Member
Dec 28, 2012
19
Success! Replaced the fuse and igniter and we have fire. So happy not to have to replace the control board at this time. Now I just need to get the igniter wiring with the inline fuse. Any tips on installing that?
thanks again for the help!
M
 
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kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,489
Iowa
Glad we could be of help. Make sure you ran the igniter wires up in the slot, to keep them out of the way of auto clean. And when you get the wire harness, you will see how to install it. And another tidbit of advise, when the wire harness from the power supply to the control board, starts getting the white connectors turning brown, it is time to replace it before it shorts out the control board. Stay warm. kap
 
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Mir77

Member
Dec 28, 2012
19
Re: the above Mt Vernon AE issues, now we are getting immediately blown fuses when replaced in the control board. I added the igniter in-line harness a few months ago and those fuses have remained intact, but the control board fuses continue to blow and need replacing. Any suggestions?
 
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kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,489
Iowa
You have a short somewhere in the wire harness for the igniter. Did you make sure you put the igniter wires up in channel when installing a new one, to keep auto-clean from rubbing on them, and shorting them out? Time to trace wire harness from igniter to power supply. kap
 
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Mir77

Member
Dec 28, 2012
19
I removed the control board again to check the fuse and it was blown but I also noticed the convection blower connection is burned and brown (image of burnt connection attached). Should I replace the SRV7034-219 blower harness? Does this still mean the igniter harness might be bad? The inline fuses in the igniter harness are intact. I’m attaching a photo of the #14 convection blower connection, and the intact fuses in the igniter wire.
Does the convection blower itself need to be replaced?
Thank you!
 

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kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,489
Iowa
Harness needs replaced, but what does the connection look like on the board ? Cheapest is to start with the harness. Inline fuses are good, so need to look from there to power supply for a short kap
 

Mir77

Member
Dec 28, 2012
19
Harness needs replaced, but what does the connection look like on the board ? Cheapest is to start with the harness. Inline fuses are good, so need to look from there to power supply for a short kap
I ordered the convection blower harness. The connection from the igniter harness at the board looks fine to me. After replacing blower wiring, should I use original igniter wire or the newer one with the in line fuse?
Could the fuse have been blown from the convection blower shorting or is it more likely the igniter wiring that caused it? Should I test with conductivity with multimeter?

You’ve been infinitely helpful for years. I thank you, as I am a novice and I have learned a lot.
 

kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,489
Iowa
I would purchase the inline fuse harness, as saves tearing into control board for blown fuse. I would test all wires but seeing that melted end tells a tale. kap