Mendota DXV45 says it has nailing flanges, but I don't see any. I don't want to just screw into floor... I want to secure along sides also. Anyone ever install a Mendota DXV and know if there are actual flanges or if I need to just screw through the interior into the framing? Thank you!
Nailing flanges??
- Thread starter jtech1
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Nailing flanges on gas units are generally flat on each side
& need to be bent outwards to be used.
Is yours different?
& need to be bent outwards to be used.
Is yours different?
![[Hearth.com] Nailing flanges??](/talk/data/attachments/253/253127-a7a0b4ea3c0b9628ab741e54fec87e7c.jpg?hash=DaunOhD0zc)
So, no mention of this in the manual... not a single picture... but I am assuming these are the "adjustable nailing flanges"... looks like I screw into the side of the unit through the slots on the wide side and I guess I have to unbend one of the flanges to fit over the framing... would be really nice for some picture or description in the manual. Anyone ever installed a unit with these pieces?
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![[Hearth.com] Nailing flanges??](/talk/data/attachments/253/253129-4ac9880afc457cc301b10f7fb7b2afbb.jpg?hash=8QO9RiEgLV)
So, the specs say the front face of the unit should be flush with the ROUGH framing (not including wallboard). But the slots on the nailing strips do not allow the flange to come out as far as the front face of the unit. This is a little ridiculous! One freak'in picture from Mendota would make this much easier. Before I hack these up to make them work, am I missing something simple here?
The flanges should be 1/2" BACK from the face of the unit.
That allows for your 1/2" drywall to be flush with the face, so that
when you add a finish (stone, tile, whatever, it will overlap the
front of the unit & lie flat against the drywall...
That allows for your 1/2" drywall to be flush with the face, so that
when you add a finish (stone, tile, whatever, it will overlap the
front of the unit & lie flat against the drywall...
Thanks... what was throwing me off is that Mendota specifically states "the font most surface of the fireplace should be flush with the front surface of the framed cavity."
I am also using Bently front, so that adds another wrinkle to it... I was only going to use one 1/2" layer of Hardibacker, but it looks like I need two 1/2" layers to get to the face of the Bently frame... as I am thin-setting directly to the Hardibacker... if I were doing a scratch coat, then I could use only the one layer and the scratch coat would get the other 1/2" to the face of the Bently frame.
Does this all sound correct?
I am also using Bently front, so that adds another wrinkle to it... I was only going to use one 1/2" layer of Hardibacker, but it looks like I need two 1/2" layers to get to the face of the Bently frame... as I am thin-setting directly to the Hardibacker... if I were doing a scratch coat, then I could use only the one layer and the scratch coat would get the other 1/2" to the face of the Bently frame.
Does this all sound correct?
It has a frame that sits on top of the fireplace front, which adds 1/2" depth... and on top of that frame is a 1/2" raised rail all the way around, as a guide for finish materials.
But, it is clear from the basic fireplace itself, that the instructions are incorrect... since with the proper rough opening, and the top, black, rigid nailing flange/4" spacer in place, its lip sits on the front face of the header framing... no other way for it to sit... which confirms what you said in that the fireplace face sits 1/2" in front of rough framing, and flush with framing + 1/2" drywall. The manual should also not say "MIN rough opening" without qualifying that if the sides and header are not within 1/2" of the opening dimensions, your nailing flanges will not work... especially the top flange.
But, it is clear from the basic fireplace itself, that the instructions are incorrect... since with the proper rough opening, and the top, black, rigid nailing flange/4" spacer in place, its lip sits on the front face of the header framing... no other way for it to sit... which confirms what you said in that the fireplace face sits 1/2" in front of rough framing, and flush with framing + 1/2" drywall. The manual should also not say "MIN rough opening" without qualifying that if the sides and header are not within 1/2" of the opening dimensions, your nailing flanges will not work... especially the top flange.
Install and checkout all went well, after getting past the issues above. The Mendota manuals are POOR at best, with lots of information contradicting, or completely missing.
I have a few parts that I believe all go with the light installation, but there is absolutely no mention of them in the manual.
The middle piece is the light lens, and the left is the lens retainer and I assume the right piece is the bracket that goes over the lens retainer. Is there supposed to be a gasket with this? Other Mendota models that do mention lighting in the manual say the retainer clip has a gasket. The one I got with DXV45 does not have any gasket.
Also, in the bottom rear of the firebox, on both the left and right side there is a small 2"x4" piece of brick facade... and similar gap in lower left/right of rear panel... but the pieces don't exactly fit... again, no reference in the manual at all as to what these are and why the are left off.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I have a few parts that I believe all go with the light installation, but there is absolutely no mention of them in the manual.
The middle piece is the light lens, and the left is the lens retainer and I assume the right piece is the bracket that goes over the lens retainer. Is there supposed to be a gasket with this? Other Mendota models that do mention lighting in the manual say the retainer clip has a gasket. The one I got with DXV45 does not have any gasket.
Also, in the bottom rear of the firebox, on both the left and right side there is a small 2"x4" piece of brick facade... and similar gap in lower left/right of rear panel... but the pieces don't exactly fit... again, no reference in the manual at all as to what these are and why the are left off.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Attachments
![[Hearth.com] Nailing flanges??](/talk/data/attachments/253/253219-1a2eef2cf59e992069490757854aa712.jpg?hash=511z4jE4QC)
![[Hearth.com] Nailing flanges??](/talk/data/attachments/253/253220-80267523379664098c159cbf1f023b9f.jpg?hash=EWKIYRGOvR)
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So, found out the gasket is already on the fixture at top of firebox. So the only thing standing between me and getting this completed is figuring out how to screw in a light bulb.... 
Actually, how to install the lens, retainer and clip (3 pieces). I am a pretty smart guy, but I can't figure the one out. The lens has threads on one side, but NO place that it can thread in to. The black clip seems to snap into the piece already in the fireplace.... but no idea how the galvanized clip installs. it seems to have slots that fit over existing nuts in the unit... but nothing fits together properly. And NOTHING seals against the gasket on the fixture base in the unit. Can someone please give me the missing link here...
Actually, how to install the lens, retainer and clip (3 pieces). I am a pretty smart guy, but I can't figure the one out. The lens has threads on one side, but NO place that it can thread in to. The black clip seems to snap into the piece already in the fireplace.... but no idea how the galvanized clip installs. it seems to have slots that fit over existing nuts in the unit... but nothing fits together properly. And NOTHING seals against the gasket on the fixture base in the unit. Can someone please give me the missing link here...
Had to force the lens a little... chipped some glass, but got it to screw in to the holder. Not a great design. Mounted retainer and clip and all is working. Not sure why nothing in manual at all about it. Oh well.
Anyone ever use Rutland Seal It Right direct vent sealer on external direct vent seams? Rated to 800 deg continuous. My local inspector said the 500 deg stuff was fine to use... so I assume the 800 deg stuff will work also... and seems like this is what it was made for... external direct vent seams, and the gap between vent pipe and thimble. Any drawback at all to sealing these? My local inspector said no issue at all... just looking for some real world input. I have looked at the temps I am seeing when running the FP at full BTU... front of 90 coming off top of unit gets to about 160 deg... and 1.5 ft later at the thimble is down to 100 deg on top of pipe... and cool to touch on bottom of pipe. I assume this is normal. I guess I did not expect the outer pipe to be that hot even right off the unit.
Anyone ever use Rutland Seal It Right direct vent sealer on external direct vent seams? Rated to 800 deg continuous. My local inspector said the 500 deg stuff was fine to use... so I assume the 800 deg stuff will work also... and seems like this is what it was made for... external direct vent seams, and the gap between vent pipe and thimble. Any drawback at all to sealing these? My local inspector said no issue at all... just looking for some real world input. I have looked at the temps I am seeing when running the FP at full BTU... front of 90 coming off top of unit gets to about 160 deg... and 1.5 ft later at the thimble is down to 100 deg on top of pipe... and cool to touch on bottom of pipe. I assume this is normal. I guess I did not expect the outer pipe to be that hot even right off the unit.
JTech - I am dealing with the exact same situation you posted about here. I am trying to figure out how these nailing flanges work and if they are even necessary. Also, curious how you handed the drywall situation. with the Bentley door face plate pushing everything out another 1/2 inch. Are you happy with the Mendota? Any help here would be greatly appreciated
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