Hello: My wife and i had a Napoleon 1150P Gourmet wood cookstove professionally install this winter with new chimney etc. The reason my wife choose this model is because she likes to cook on the wood stove rather than the electric one from time to time and this stove has a flat cooking surface with 2 removable hot plates. We burn birch and poplar and have even tried tamarack, however the stove refuses to get hot enough on the top to even boil water, no matter how fierce a blaze we have in the firebox. We've had the installer out to change the air control lever and even try to extend the chimney on advise from the manufacturer but no go. the hottest we can get water is about 190 f. Water will eventually boil if you leave the lid on the pot for a long time but forget eggs etc. Does any know if this a stove related problem or is this unit simply not designed to do what we want it to do and never will no matter we do or how often my wife complains to the store we bought the stove from. thx,
Napoleon Cookstove won't cook
- Thread starter blackmax
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Welcome blackmax. Do you have a stovetop thermometer that can be used to check temperatures on the stovetop surface? If yes, what temps are you seeing? Can you describe what is a typical fire burning procedure including air control settings?
My first thought would be to check the dryness of the wood. Can you describe the wood being burned, including dimensions of the splits? Have you tried the stove with store-bought, wood that is definitely dried out? Do you have the blower running or off when trying to cook? Maybe that is cooling down the stove too much to cook on it?
One thing I used to do on an old big wood cookstove was to remove one of the lids on the cooktop. I had a pot the bottom of which fit into the lid hole, but the sides were tapered so it would only go in about an inch. That brought the flames directly in contact with the pot bottom and boiled water much faster.
My first thought would be to check the dryness of the wood. Can you describe the wood being burned, including dimensions of the splits? Have you tried the stove with store-bought, wood that is definitely dried out? Do you have the blower running or off when trying to cook? Maybe that is cooling down the stove too much to cook on it?
One thing I used to do on an old big wood cookstove was to remove one of the lids on the cooktop. I had a pot the bottom of which fit into the lid hole, but the sides were tapered so it would only go in about an inch. That brought the flames directly in contact with the pot bottom and boiled water much faster.
I do not know your cook stove but if it has a blower as mentioned earlier I would think it would make perfect sense that the stove is not getting up to needed heating levels. Turn it off. Most old stoves had many removable hot plates and though we never needed to remove them for our cooking it does increase temps a lot. Perhaps this stove is designed to cook on the open areas. Try finding a pot or pan that fits it right. Also if you want a hotter surface you can try leaving the built in damper open. Its designed to make a fire easy to start then you close it to make the heat go around the oven. Then you can find the hot spots on your stove they will usually be where the fire has easy access to the chimney. This will only work on some stoves as most will send their heat up the chimney to fast for this to work. Also you say that a man came and adjusted it. Did he check that there are no blockages in the stove. I assume you have good draft so the chimney should be good. When he adjusted the "air control lever" did he actually look to see what difference his mod made.
Also did he just adjust the air for the fire box? I would really like to see if the damper that changes the direction of your heat is opening all the way. This would be my first guess. Maybe only some air is going around oven and some is going directly up chimney. A surface thermometer should tell you where the main heat is going. Good luck
Also did he just adjust the air for the fire box? I would really like to see if the damper that changes the direction of your heat is opening all the way. This would be my first guess. Maybe only some air is going around oven and some is going directly up chimney. A surface thermometer should tell you where the main heat is going. Good luck
I just found your stove. The info I offered is for a cook stove. Your model is much different and my info is incorrect. The only thing I can say is most are able to get their stove tops to 500 or 600 are you not able to do that. I am thinking you have to have a good big fire going and no blower.
What kind of baffle do you have and is it positioned properly.
What kind of baffle do you have and is it positioned properly.
thx for the replies so far. With this stove we have no blower and when you remove the cook plates you cannot actually see the fire as the the fire box is only open at the very front of the stove. We've tried cooking with the plates off and you can actually put your hand in the opening with a fire going and not find it too hot to stand for a while. the installer did have a thermometer that read the surface temp of the top and it was @ 210 F. when he changed the air control damper the only real result is that now we are not able to have a real slow burn, too much air getting in now and going thru wood like nobodies business. I wonder if it's just a design issue, btw the installer thought our wood was no good so he brought his own and still no go. To effectively cook how hot should the top be?
I used to cook on top of our old stove between five and six hundred degrees temperature on the top plate. Water would boil on it around that temp also.
I don't cook on the new one because of the mess it can make. I use the propane camp stove when the power is out. Messing up a twenty-six dollar camp stove irritates me many times less than slopping something on a thousand dollar wood stove, and getting to smell it burning for four hours.
I don't cook on the new one because of the mess it can make. I use the propane camp stove when the power is out. Messing up a twenty-six dollar camp stove irritates me many times less than slopping something on a thousand dollar wood stove, and getting to smell it burning for four hours.
Never having run the stove I can only give generic advice, but something isn't sound right. I would expect the exhaust under the stove top to be very hot. One thing to check is to be sure the baffle above the secondaries is in place correctly. If not, flames could go behind it and right up the flue. That would lead to a cold stove top and excessive wood consumption. Also check that the secondary manifold is seated properly on it's gasket. From the manual: "Ensure that the top baffles are pushed all the way to the rear of the firebox, leaving a minimum of a 1 inch gap along the front."
Review the burning procedures in the manual on page 12. Is this how the stove is burning? "Maximum heat for minimum fuel (optimum burn) occurs when the stove top temperature beneath the trivet is between 500°F (260°C) and 600°F (315°C)."
As far as other owners, you might try contacting TimfromOhio on this website who got one of these stoves last fall.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/9918/
Review the burning procedures in the manual on page 12. Is this how the stove is burning? "Maximum heat for minimum fuel (optimum burn) occurs when the stove top temperature beneath the trivet is between 500°F (260°C) and 600°F (315°C)."
As far as other owners, you might try contacting TimfromOhio on this website who got one of these stoves last fall.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/9918/
It depends on the stove design. Many stove tops run about 500-600 degrees at the hottest location. A good cooking stove will have a range of surface temps and maybe even side shelves for bread rising and mitten drying. We haven't tried cooking on the Alderlea yet, but will. With the swing out trivets, there are a lot of different cooking temperature options.
From what you have described I think that there must be a gap behind the secondary burn baffle that is allowing the flue gasses to go directly up the chimney without heating the cook surface. This would also explain your roaring fire. I would guess that you never have smoke puff into the room when you open the door.
Again thx for the replies. I have checked that the baffles are all the way to the back and the gap at the front is about an inch and half. with a fire going we are easily able to open the door all the way and no smoke will escape out the door. this stove was installed mid dec and has run pretty much constant since then. 2 weeks ago when the installer came to investigate he put in a new air control lever and since then you really have little control over the burn. I wonder if he put one in that has a smaller plate, hence our lousy burn time. When he put up the extra chimney section he showed us the cap which was totally caked and our chimney on the outside is covered with black. I suppose this could be wood not seasoned properly (it was supposed to be good wood and I have talked to others who buy from them, they have no complaints. Is it possible he didn't put the bricks in properly or something else and we are getting no secondary burn. It dies sound like several have said that all the heat is going right out the chimney. I would estimate that we get about 3 hours burn time with a full load of large white poplar. would the fact that you can remove the stove plates from the top and can put your hand in the opening between the baffles and stove top without getting instantly burned indicate the flow is incorrect? thx again
Blackmax,
You post is disturbing to me as I too own an 1150p - it has yet to be installed. It will go into a new kitchen/family room that we're working on now. I have just about finished the hearth, so the stove itself will be set in the next few weeks, but I was not planning on hooking it up until end of summer/beginning of fall since we don't need the the (must spend that time scrounging for wood!).
Anyway, please keep us posted on this issue. I bought that stove specifically b/c I want to be able to have a pot of something cooking on the top. If I can't do that, I'll be mighty ticked off. I bought my stove from Obediah's (www.woodstoves.net) - it was a floor model that was already put together and had never been burned - wicked good deal. So, mine is together and sitting in the garage. If you like, I can try to take some digital pics of the setup and send them to you? Let me know.
Good luck!
Tim
You post is disturbing to me as I too own an 1150p - it has yet to be installed. It will go into a new kitchen/family room that we're working on now. I have just about finished the hearth, so the stove itself will be set in the next few weeks, but I was not planning on hooking it up until end of summer/beginning of fall since we don't need the the (must spend that time scrounging for wood!).
Anyway, please keep us posted on this issue. I bought that stove specifically b/c I want to be able to have a pot of something cooking on the top. If I can't do that, I'll be mighty ticked off. I bought my stove from Obediah's (www.woodstoves.net) - it was a floor model that was already put together and had never been burned - wicked good deal. So, mine is together and sitting in the garage. If you like, I can try to take some digital pics of the setup and send them to you? Let me know.
Good luck!
Tim
This does sound like the wood is the culprit. Creosote build up is usually a sign of not burning hot enough. It could also be that the wood splits are too large and not dry in the middle. You can determine this by splitting a current split in half and then putting the freshly split surface against your face. Does if feel cool and damp? Is so, it's not fully dried. Poplar is not the hottest firewood, so if it's damp, it's heat output is going to be poor.
Next go out and get a stove thermometer. It is really hard to be objective without some accurate temperature measurements. Once you have the stove burning well, a thermometer will be a great help for cooking too. I suspect that the stove top temp should be around 500 degrees, but will have to wait until we can get confirmation from another 1150 owner. Did you ask your dealer if they have any other customers with this stove. If they do, can they put you in contact with them?
It would be good to understand exactly what modification was done to the air control. From the description it is now worse than before. Is that correct? If yes, it probably should be returned to factory spec.
Last, can you describe the flue assembly that the stove is connected to? Is this an interior or exterior flue? How tall, how many elbows?
Next go out and get a stove thermometer. It is really hard to be objective without some accurate temperature measurements. Once you have the stove burning well, a thermometer will be a great help for cooking too. I suspect that the stove top temp should be around 500 degrees, but will have to wait until we can get confirmation from another 1150 owner. Did you ask your dealer if they have any other customers with this stove. If they do, can they put you in contact with them?
It would be good to understand exactly what modification was done to the air control. From the description it is now worse than before. Is that correct? If yes, it probably should be returned to factory spec.
Last, can you describe the flue assembly that the stove is connected to? Is this an interior or exterior flue? How tall, how many elbows?
BeGreen,
I do know that the 1150p is basically an 1100 firebox on a different pedestal base (with a little cubby for wood or kindling storage - more for looks than anything else) and a cast iron top. I expected its performance and output to be on par with an 1100. Maybe we could poll some 1100 owners?
Tim
I do know that the 1150p is basically an 1100 firebox on a different pedestal base (with a little cubby for wood or kindling storage - more for looks than anything else) and a cast iron top. I expected its performance and output to be on par with an 1100. Maybe we could poll some 1100 owners?
Tim
Yes, "Except for their different depths, models 1100, 1150, 1400, 1900 and the fireplace inserts 1101, 1401, and 1402 are identical and use the same burning principles."
Here are guidelines from the manual:
"Without a stove thermometer, you are working blindly
and have no idea of how the stove is operating! A stove
thermometer offers a guide to performance."
FUEL LOADING AND BURN CYCLE
When loading the stove, ensure that the two upper fibre
baffles are not lifted up and off their ledge.
For maximum efficiency, when the stove is thoroughly hot,
load it fully to the top of the door opening and burn at a medium
low setting. Maximum heat for minium fuel (optimum
burn) occurs when the stove top temperature beneath the
trivet is between 500°F (260°C) and 600°F (315°C). The bricks
will be nearly all white and the glass mostly clear. The whiteness
of the bricks and the cleanness of the glass are good
indicators of your operating efficiency. Not enough heat is
produced when only one or two pieces of wood are burned or
the wood may not burn completely. A minimum of three pieces
are needed to encase a bed of coals that sustains the fire.
Loosely stacked wood burns quicker than a tightly packed
load. Wood burns in cycles rather than giving a steady output
of heat. It is best to plan these cycles around your household
routine so that only enough coals are left to start the next load.
In the evening, load your stove, at least, a half-hour before
bed to ensure a good fire, hot enough to close the draft control
for an overnight burn. Burn only dry seasoned wood.
It produces more heat and less soot or creosote."
Jake and Greg123 have the 1100, maybe they can chime in.
Here are guidelines from the manual:
"Without a stove thermometer, you are working blindly
and have no idea of how the stove is operating! A stove
thermometer offers a guide to performance."
FUEL LOADING AND BURN CYCLE
When loading the stove, ensure that the two upper fibre
baffles are not lifted up and off their ledge.
For maximum efficiency, when the stove is thoroughly hot,
load it fully to the top of the door opening and burn at a medium
low setting. Maximum heat for minium fuel (optimum
burn) occurs when the stove top temperature beneath the
trivet is between 500°F (260°C) and 600°F (315°C). The bricks
will be nearly all white and the glass mostly clear. The whiteness
of the bricks and the cleanness of the glass are good
indicators of your operating efficiency. Not enough heat is
produced when only one or two pieces of wood are burned or
the wood may not burn completely. A minimum of three pieces
are needed to encase a bed of coals that sustains the fire.
Loosely stacked wood burns quicker than a tightly packed
load. Wood burns in cycles rather than giving a steady output
of heat. It is best to plan these cycles around your household
routine so that only enough coals are left to start the next load.
In the evening, load your stove, at least, a half-hour before
bed to ensure a good fire, hot enough to close the draft control
for an overnight burn. Burn only dry seasoned wood.
It produces more heat and less soot or creosote."
Jake and Greg123 have the 1100, maybe they can chime in.
My wife has has had the stove burning all afternoon, not a heqvy blazer, just a nice little for some heat, however lots of coals and a reasonable flame. (btw, I rarely a have a problem with the glass getting black) Anyway I removed one of the trivets and was able to put my whole hand in the area between the cast iron top and the baffles and could have kept it there as long as I wanted. We have tried differnet types of wood (poplar, birch and tamarack) in both large and small pieceswith no real luck. If I read is correct, that space between the top and baffles shold get up 600 degrees F. I believe that for whatever reason the heat is totally bypassing that area and going out the chimney. what I am going to do now is put a huge amount of kindling in the stove wioth some mid size pieces to make qas hot a fire as I can and then try putting my hand in throuhg the top and see how long I can keep it there. that should tell tale.
When you look at the fire burning, can you see where the flames exit the firebox. It should be at the front edge of the baffle. (See diagram in manual.) If not, something is not sealing correctly. Do you see secondary combustion at all?
Let the stove go out completely. When it's cold, closely examine the firebrick installation. Compare it with the diagram in the manual. The firebox should essentially be a sealed chamber that forces the flamepath up and around the front edge of the baffle. But this requires a snug fit of the baffle boards against the tops of the firebrick. Make sure they are seated flat and sealing against the firebrick on the sides and back of the stove.
Let the stove go out completely. When it's cold, closely examine the firebrick installation. Compare it with the diagram in the manual. The firebox should essentially be a sealed chamber that forces the flamepath up and around the front edge of the baffle. But this requires a snug fit of the baffle boards against the tops of the firebrick. Make sure they are seated flat and sealing against the firebrick on the sides and back of the stove.
I am a Napoleon dealer and have an 1150P in the showroom which puts out fantastic heat, burns cleanly and boils water in a cast iron kettle easily. Things to look for are - are the ceiling baffles installed properly - are the gaskets under the cook plates in place - is the door sealing properly. Put a 5 dollar bill in the door seal area, close the door and try to pull it out. If it comes out easily, replace the door - make sure technician installed the air control properly - make sure ash dump door is not jammed partially open - remove the bricks and shine a flashlight around edges of firebox to check for bad welds or gaps - lastly, make sure wood is properly seasoned. If still no luck, request the dealer replace stove.
Firestarter64 - what kind of burn times can you get out of the 1150p? I'll be installing one late summer/early fall and am curious.
Thanks!
Thanks!
I just put in a napoleon 1150 and I can get the top over 900 degrees easily. Though I try to keep it 500-600. When it arrived the firebricks were not in the correct spots. They had the top back pieces located right behind the door opening in the front. other than that all seems well. Lance
blackmax if you think it could be your wood just hawk some old pallets and cut 'em up. they burn hot ...if you can't cook with that fire them something other than the wood must be the problem.
Hi Lance, welcome. Thanks for the information. The bricks in the wrong order might be an issue with blackmax's stove. Maybe blackmax can post a picture of their stove's firebox interior?
Good to hear that your's is really cooking. Are you using it most for cooking, heating or both?
Good to hear that your's is really cooking. Are you using it most for cooking, heating or both?
Be Green:
Well I have burned wood all my life from a kid on. In fact I sell Firewood I live in Maine. I am mostly going to heat with it but I have already cooked some french toast and a couple steaks on it. I just last year decided to burn almost all wood no oil if possible Got a smaller car Toyota Yaris getting 45 plus gallons. I use a scythe to mow my lawn I raise a large garden have some chickens and maybe will get a cow. I have had enough of sending my money to the middle east when I can do so much more here with what I have at home.
My father has work horses and a couple cows we arise a beef critter every year and last year I mowed 5 acres with a scythe. I do have a tractor too though. I also put away my roto tiller two years ago in favor of a hand cultivator and I love it I get some exercise and it is faster and quiet. I also have noticed that this spring while splitting this winters wood my son and I have had a chance to talk and joke we spilt a little every day and actually it is enjoyable. Lance
Well I have burned wood all my life from a kid on. In fact I sell Firewood I live in Maine. I am mostly going to heat with it but I have already cooked some french toast and a couple steaks on it. I just last year decided to burn almost all wood no oil if possible Got a smaller car Toyota Yaris getting 45 plus gallons. I use a scythe to mow my lawn I raise a large garden have some chickens and maybe will get a cow. I have had enough of sending my money to the middle east when I can do so much more here with what I have at home.
My father has work horses and a couple cows we arise a beef critter every year and last year I mowed 5 acres with a scythe. I do have a tractor too though. I also put away my roto tiller two years ago in favor of a hand cultivator and I love it I get some exercise and it is faster and quiet. I also have noticed that this spring while splitting this winters wood my son and I have had a chance to talk and joke we spilt a little every day and actually it is enjoyable. Lance
Back again, and thx for all the replies. The installer came out again with a rep from Napoleon and they changed the air regulator again and checked the openings etc and the bottom line is that the stove worked much better now-longer burn times and the top heats up enough to eventually boil water if you leave a lid on the pot. At least now my wife is somewhat satisfied and I don't need to listen to the constant drama re the stove anymore. thx for all your help and if anything changes I will report back.
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