natural stone slab as stove board

[munkyboi]

hi all,

i am looking for a list of natural stone that looks similar to slate (i like the natural cleft unpolished finish) to be used as a stove board (my stove only needs ember protection).

so far, i have seen blue stone, basalt that have the similar look and texture. does anyone have any other suggestions so i can broaden my search?

the dimension i need is 52" x 38" and i am thinking a thickness of 1/2" to 3/4".

thanks
m

 

[xman23]

So you want the look of slate, how about slate, sorry, I couldn't resist. There are a lot of different colors in slate. Mine in the avatar is manufactured stone like pavers 2 inch thick with a limestone border.

 

[fossil]

Since this isn't something that you're going to want to have to move far, I'd suggest the Yellow Pages. Find out what's available locally and go shopping.

 

[tekguy]

Natural bluestone (not thermal)

 

[homebrewz]

Where in NY are you? Bluestone abounds in the Catskills and you might be able to get a good deal on some. If you're up north granite and gneiss are the local rocks. Down by the city you can find basalt from quarries in NJ, and in WNY you'll be limited to sandstone. Bluestone is typically slate colored, granite and gneiss come in a variety of colors, and basalt is usually just dark gray. You can also find composite tiles that might have the look you are looking for.

You might consider going with something thick so it doesn't crack when you drop a log on it.

 

[munkyboi]

Where in NY are you? Bluestone abounds in the Catskills and you might be able to get a good deal on some. If your up north granite and gneiss are the local rocks. Down by the city you can find basalt from quarries in NJ, and in WNY you'll be limited to sandstone. Bluestone is typically slate colored, granite and gneiss come in a variety of colors, and basalt is usually just dark gray. You can also find composite tiles that might have the look you are looking for.

You might consider going with something thick so it doesn't crack when you drop a log on it.

I am in northern westchester.

I like the seamless look of a slab instead of tiles. As for the thicknesses, I thought since I don't need thermal protection, I would go for a thinner sleek look, but you have a good point of cracking issue. Do you think an inch would be enough?

Also if I get a slab with natural cleft finish like this one:

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/362258363747748886/

Will I run into problem of leveling the stove?

Thanks
M

 

[tekguy]

Depends on how 'square and true' the slab is to say

That one you pictured doesn't look to be to code

 

[cableman]

I did the one piece bluestone thing in 2" thick, love it! Mine is 50"x50" corner slab, 400 bucks 400lbs!

 

[homebrewz]

I think an inch would be fine to prevent against cracking from accidental log dropping as long as the surface underneath is nice and level.

 

[Ashful]

Take a drive to Slatington, PA? You're not likely to find more slate sellers in one small area.

 

[DougA]

I work with a lot of larger slabs and the critical part is ensuring that you have mortar perfectly even so that every square inch of it is supported equally. Sounds easy but it's not. The best way is a lot of mortar, mixed a bit loose and I prefer with Weldbond (or similar) added for strength. You need to move the slab around on the mortar so all of the high/low points get settled. Even 1" is not a thick slab and will crack just as easily as 1/2" if not installed right. The thicker you go the more challenging it is to work with that much weight.
The other thought is that just because you have a crack, does not make it any less useful.

 

[munkyboi]

I work with a lot of larger slabs and the critical part is ensuring that you have mortar perfectly even so that every square inch of it is supported equally. Sounds easy but it's not. The best way is a lot of mortar, mixed a bit loose and I prefer with Weldbond (or similar) added for strength. You need to move the slab around on the mortar so all of the high/low points get settled. Even 1" is not a thick slab and will crack just as easily as 1/2" if not installed right. The thicker you go the more challenging it is to work with that much weight.
The other thought is that just because you have a crack, does not make it any less useful.

i plan to just place the slab directly on top of the hardwood floor without any mortar or grout or framing element.

i have been calling around to get quotes and here are what i got so far, do they sound high?

52" x 38" x 1" blue stone cut to size with edges finished $600

52" x 38" x 3/4" slate cut to size with edges finished $572

52" x 38" x 1 1/4" soapstone cut to size with edges finished $758

slatington, PA is about 3 hours drive from me and i might do the drive if i can get what i want with a good price

thanks

 

[cableman]

That sounds high to me for the BS! Mine is 50"x50" corner 2" slab with chisel cut on the front 3 edges, 400 bucks