NC30 just arrived, couple more questions.

[tecumseh03]

1. Is the firebrick shown suppose to be cut?
2. Lowes only carried the snap together
black pipe, that scares me being my first time. Will Menards black pipe fit the Supervent kit I bought at Lowes?
3. When I screw the pipe together do I use the cement on the screws or anywhere else?
4. I need a telescoping piece I think? Does it go towards top or bottom or doesn't matter?

Now i just realized my ceiling joist and trusses are 16, on center, the trusses are offset so that reduces it even more. I have 14" in between the ceiling joist but when you get to the roof the offset is 1.5 less on one side because of the thickness of the truss. I may get right at 2" clearance but that really scares me. Im about ready to give up and take it back!

Thanks for putting up with me!

 

[begreen]

If you have 2 inch clearance for the class A pipe you are fine. But if you are not confident about installing the stove it should be done by a pro. There may be several in your area if that is an option.

 

[BrotherBart]

Two of the cut bricks go on the firebox floor in the rear on each side of the secondary air manifold which is that wide "box" on the back wall of the firebox. The other cut one goes in the front right side as you look into the stove. The cut keeps the brick from blocking the door latch.

 

[bholler]

The snap together pipe will work fine we use it allot the welded stuff is better for sure but for us it is hard to carry much of it in the truck so we usually use span together stuff and it works fine

 

[tecumseh03]

If you have 2 inch clearance for the class A pipe you are fine. But if you are not confident about installing the stove it should be done by a pro. There may be several in your area if that is an option.

Looks like ill have little over 2 so its ok I guess. Watched some youtube videos where they had 24" trusses and got worried. Ill post a pic when im done.

 

[tecumseh03]

The snap together pipe will work fine we use it allot the welded stuff is better for sure but for us it is hard to carry much of it in the truck so we usually use span together stuff and it works fine

I didnt see the cement at lowes, what is the proper name? I didnt see any high temperature caulk there either.

 

[tecumseh03]

Two of the cut bricks go on the firebox floor in the rear on each side of the secondary air manifold which is that wide "box" on the back wall of the firebox. The other cut one goes in the front right side as you look into the stove. The cut keeps the brick from blocking the door latch.

Thats good to here. Thanks

 

[bholler]

I didn't see the cement at lowes, what is the proper name? I didn't see any high temperature caulk there either.

You don't need cement anywhere and cant think of anywhere you would need hi temp silicone either the only place you will need sealant is above the roof on the outside of the class a in a few spots

 

[tecumseh03]

You don't need cement anywhere and cant think of anywhere you would need hi temp silicone either the only place you will need sealant is above the roof on the outside of the class a in a few spots

Ok cool, I thought you needed cement on the pipe that snap together. The storm collar doesnt need high temp silicone?

 

[bholler]

no no cement and regular silicone should be fine on storm

 

[Hunker Down]

This is what I used on the storm collar

 

[tecumseh03]

Ok I'm getting there but ran in to a problem with flashing. My roof pitch is 6/12 and my flashing goes to 6/12 so I am pushing the limits which changed my original hole in the roof. I had to move the flashing up which only gives me 1" clearance on the front of the double wall to the flashing in pic 3. Is that safe? In the inside of the house the previous owner put up wood ceiling with panels, I had to tear out some panels but I have the 2" clearance. Is this ok with all that dry pine on the ceiling?

 

[tecumseh03]

Ok I'm getting there but ran in to a problem with flashing. My roof pitch is 6/12 and my flashing goes to 6/12 so I am pushing the limits which changed my original hole in the roof. I had to move the flashing up which only gives me 1" clearance on the front of the double wall to the flashing in pic 3. Is that safe? In the inside of the house the previous owner put up wood ceiling with panels, I had to tear out some panels but I have the 2" clearance. Is this ok with all that dry pine on the ceiling?

Anybody? Rains on its way, think the flashing clearence is ok?

 

[begreen]

One inch to the flashing should be ok there as long as the pipe is 2" away from any combustible.

 

[tecumseh03]

One inch to the flashing should be ok there as long as the pipe is 2" away from any combustible.

Awesome thanks, pipe is over 2" from combustible. I can get another flashing for 6/12 and up but ive got that nailed down.

 

[Tom703]

Although I have been reading this forum for a long time, I decided to finally make a post and thank all those giving such good advise.

I have a very similar flue system as you, with 16" roof joists. Mine is a mobile home, so the ceiling and roof joists are one and the same. I used a factory 12" x 12" Duravent support box going through the ceiling and roof, providing 2" clearance all the way around for 6" ID (8" OD) Duratech flue pipe. I actually had to frame a 12" square hole to mount the box. I have a new stove this month, but the flue system has been in use for over a year and works fine. This spacing meets the Uniform Building Codes specs that are adopted in most areas.

 

[tecumseh03]

Although I have been reading this forum for a long time, I decided to finally make a post and thank all those giving such good advise.

I have a very similar flue system as you, with 16" roof joists. Mine is a mobile home, so the ceiling and roof joists are one and the same. I used a factory 12" x 12" Duravent support box going through the ceiling and roof, providing 2" clearance all the way around for 6" ID (8" OD) Duratech flue pipe. I actually had to frame a 12" square hole to mount the box. I have a new stove this month, but the flue system has been in use for over a year and works fine. This spacing meets the Uniform Building Codes specs that are adopted in most areas.

Good to hear. Thanks