Necessary to screw together stove pipe?

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brider

Member
Jun 13, 2008
121
New Haven, CT
I've got a run of about 60" of single-wall stove pipe from the stove up to the DW pipe going thru the ceiling. (2) 24" sections, then a 12" section that slips OVER my dripless pipe coming down from the ceiling.

Everywhere I read about these installations, it says to screw together each joint with (3) evenly spaced screws. Since the pipe slips down INTO the collar on my stove, and each section fits snugly together, and the top section has at least a 6" overlap with my dripless connector, is screwing it all together necessary? I can't imaging any sort of condition that would separate these sections, so why bother?
 
I THINK that other than the stove-chimney adaptor and the finishing collar piece, if the pipe does not twist lock together, it needs screws.
 
WHY BOTHER? cause if that instance where is does come apart, 3 screws for $1.00 and 10 minutes can save lives.
 
Several times a season my stoves will collect a stove full of unburned gases that ignite all at once. When it happens the sound in the liner or pipe make me glad those suckers are secured with screws. The sound of that liner expanding and contracting tells me that even though pipe sections on the free standers might not separate, I am not willing to find out.

I won't light a fire in a stove without the pipe sections secured. This house is worth more than a handful of screws.
 
Remember, some stove pipe is not welded, especially single wall - it uses a clip seam - if you don't screw it to the next section, then a stress (like inserting the piece above it to far, or not at a perfect angle) or force over time can cause that seam to "unzip".

If you aren't worried about hot flue gasses without a good plan entering your living space, then save the money on the screws.

If you are sensible, and realize that fire isn't something to cut corners on, then get 3 screws (I recommend stainless, but what do I know) in each joint, including the stove top when required by the manual.
 
Four screws prefered, three if four is not possible. You do have homeowners insurance right?
 
I put alot of work into making my stove safe. Just ask my wife :shut: . I moved a wall and everything. But I completely forgot about the screws. :red: I have holes for them right where the pipe comes out of the stove, but I am using single wall and I don't see any locations for screw anywhere else. Do I just use a teck screw and drive them in the elbow connection. Also, my single pipe enters a thimble to go through the wall. I did silicone the pipe in but is there more I should do here?
 
You may need to drill a small hole for the screws. Adjusting sections require that.

I would think that as long as you have good draft, you should not need to worry too much about smoke/gasses leaking from the connections due to natural convection of the chimney. The screws on the pipe sections are more of a "fall apart" safety thing like mentioned above.

The simpson info says to not worry about sealing the inside pass through of the thimble, just the outside. I think they say that since it is not needed and gives a cleaner looking install. But, there is no harm in sealing up every crack you can find!
 
Binder, I would suggest screwing the pipes.
Better to be safe then have a "Oh Poop!" moment.

But on the brighter side a pipe falling of in the middle of the night would accomplish the following:
It would get your heart going.. (Good Cardio)
It would defiantly produce enough heat to keep the ab going. :bug:
You would get to use your fancy new welder gloves, if not you will find out potholders don't work very well.
A nice ride in the ambulance, this is if you catch it in time, if not a slow ride in a black limo. :down:
You will find out the difference between 1st, 2nd and 3rd degree burns. :sick:

All sitting on an ice cream cone and telling you the flavor aside. :)
I would put the screws to it.
 
Screws are not something to scrimp on. They need to be there. When you disassemble for cleaning, it can be a real hassle to line everything back up. I use a piece of soapstone like you would use to mark steel before cutting with a torch to mark across the seam of the pipe. If you line these back up when putting everything back together, the holes should be realigned too.
 
My 22 gauge welded stovepipe had directions that instruct the use of 4 screws. I recommend pre-drilling, as self tapping screws will still bend the pipe a little.
 
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