Need 3" double wall pipe, and advice, for cubic mini wood stove in sprinter van

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A

Anti

New Member
Jan 30, 2016
9
Oregon
Hi, I've got a cubic mini wood stove, and I'm in need of some advice on installing it in a sprinter van. Most people will say ah, you can't do that, but that's what I'm gonna do, with all appropriate safety measures and proper installation.

So I need some 3" double wall stove pipe, and I've realized this is very hard to find. I found some on their website (http://cubicminiwoodstoves.com/coll...4-ss-24-stainless-steel-double-wall-flue-pipe), stainless double walled, 22.5" usable length /$43, and I'm hoping I can find a better deal than that. Anyway, if you know of a place to find this stuff that'd be great. Or should I just go for single wall, like in this picture?

The plan: Stove located behind drivers seat & metal cab partition. Tile and fireboard under the stove, bolted to the floor. CO detectors on floor and ceiling. Stainless sheet along the walls, with fireboard and .5" airgap between fireboard and SS. 3" clearance from stove to wall. Double walled stove pipe makes a straight shot 5 feet up, out the roof. A 5" diameter hole is cut in the roof, a silicone chimney jack is installed with 2" of clearance between chimney OD and van roof, and then an H style chimney cap. (I figure an H cap is my best bet at dealing with heavy rain and highway speed winds, with least aerodynamic drag. Any better designs out there for this?).

Edit: Will this pellet pipe work? http://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent...ble-Wall-Chimney-Stove-Pipe-3PVL-60/100679684

wall_mount_1024x1024.jpg
 
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I've been searching, but I haven't been able to find why pellet stove pipe is not ok for wood stove use. Don't pellet stoves get hotter?

Edit: Found the info. Pellet stoves don't get hotter, apparently. So it looks like I need Class A insulated double wall pipe. Impossible to find.


"Class A (listed to 103HT) is all fuel pipe (wood, pellet, coal, gas, oil, etc.) and has a MAXIMUM clearance-to-combustibles of 2" (some have tested there's and have lower CTC's). It is usually double wall with ceramic insulation, or triple wall with air insulation.

Type L Vent is for lower heat applications such as oil, pellet, or gas appliances and usually has anywhere from 3"-1" CTC depending on manufacturer. It is double wall, but only has a very small air gap (~1.4").

Double Wall Black pipe is all fuel, but can only be used in the immediate room that the appliance is in, before breaching a wall or ceiling you must transition to Class A. It has different CTC's depending on manufacturer, but most are 8". Most have a Stainless Steel inner flue.

Single Wall Black pipe is not tested for CTC and therefore has the generic 18" rating. Most are just galvanized steel and is relatively cheap."

Decided to just use the double pipe from cubic mini's site. I found a 3" deck fitting for the roof, looks nice. http://www.go2marine.com/product/20189F/dickinson-marine-deck-fittings-with-dress-rings.html
Could I put a chimney H-cap on top of this or would I need additional piping above the roof? Clearance isn't an issue and I don't think backdraft would be an issue with a 6' high x3" wide flue.
 
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Yeah, I could always make a flue guard later down the road, but so far I'm decided on the cubic mini double wall SS pipe over the single wall dickinson pipe. So now my questions left are: Will 5 1/2 feet of double wall pipe be enough that I can use a clover style exhaust cap? http://www.suremarineservice.com/16-095.aspx

http://www.suremarineservice.com/16-050.aspx
And if I use this deck fitting, can I mount my chimney cap directly on that? Or do I need to extend the pipe further up? I'm trying to make as inconspicuous of a design as possible, so I don't want a chimney cap way up in the air.

Now I just have to figure out how to camouflage the exhaust cap and deck fitting as something else... Any ideas?
 
The Cubic pipe is also single-wall. I would put a flue guard on that too as well as wall shielding.

I have no idea how the little Cubic stove burns or what the minimum flue height is. That's a good question for their technical support. Given that it is targeting the marine crowd I would suspect it's ok with a short stack, but call them to verify.
 
Nah, it's double wall. SS inside and out. I'm about to pull the trigger and buy 3 24" long sections, a dickinsons deck fitting, and a dickinsons 3" clover chimney exhaust. The chimney exhaust cap is so expensive though, I might just DIY it. Still kind of stumped as to how to camoflage the chimney. I mean maybe if I got a metal AC unit and hollowed it out, or if I had a roof rack, but those are too expensive. Unless I found one at a junkyard.. flueend1_1024x1024.jpe

Edit: Found Mfgr min flue length spec: 40", so that should be fine. I just don't know how far I have to extend it past the roof, given that my roof is a non-combustible van roof and there aren't any peaks nearby to cause draft issues.

Well I just bought three 24" pieces of stainless double wall cubic mini stove pipe. And I've decided to skip the expensive dickinsons deck fitting, and skip the expensive dickinsons chimney exhaust cap in favor of something homemade or.. i dunno. I'll use a Dektite #3 silicone fitting, and hope that 60" of double walled flue length is enough to be compatible with the silicone (350F rating) deck fitting. I think I've got this all figured out now! I'll post pics when it's done. Thanks everyone for the help, let me know if you think this is a good idea or no.
 
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Sorry, I looked up the wrong pipe. You are correct.
 
Anti said:
Lol, I can't stand the look of those things! It just screams ghetto to me.
Click to expand...

That's kind of a funny thing to say.............in your own thread about putting a wood stove in a van. ==c
 
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Anti said:
but what's the worst that could happen, my chimney cap burns down?
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It melts collapses and fills your van with carbon monoxide while you sleep. That is the first thing that comes to my mind.
 
It rots and rusts quickly is my thought. There are marine stainless caps for this purpose.
 
Ah I see. Well the problem is it's quite hard to find 3" wood stove vent, all I can find are pellet vent and gas vent caps. Just found this one, it's entirely stainless, at a somewhat reasonable price ($55) but just rated for gas. For the rusting problem, well I'd just keep it painted with bbq paint and change it out yearly, at $7 and easily available, nbd. If it melts it would just harmlessly put out the fire (if I had fresh air intake) or maybe screw up the paint a little on the roof.


https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...453726408-c-9520.htm?tid=-5267420429169002771
 
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Anti said:
If it melts it would just harmlessly put out the fire (if I had fresh air intake) or maybe screw up the paint a little on the roof.
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I am sorry but there is not a stove out there that is sealed well enough that smoke or co will not leak out if the cap collapses onto the top of the stack. You really need to have more respect for all of the dangers involved with this. I am not saying it cant be done safely but you need to look at it very carefully and assess the dangers.
 
I went with a cubic mini stove too and am looking for the stuff I need to complete the installation. Flashing and cap and other weatherproofing stuff. Wish the stove maker offered everything one would need but ah well.

The top caps seem pretty straightforward, but not sure what collar (or whatever the terminology) and other things I would need for a pitched roof. A tin, pitched roof. This is my first post here on what seems to be a great repository of knowledge. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
I found this thread while researching the idea of putting a woodstove in our RV. I've got a question for you folks that have done this (the thread's a year old, so I hope you're done by now!) -- what do you do about putting the fire out when you want to drive off? Just close down the damper and suffocate it? How soon can you start driving? Or, am I over-thinking this?

Another question is regarding the possible mess the stove will make. how hard is it to keep ash from going everywhere? And how often do you need to clean the chimney -- also a messy job, I assume.

Thanks in advance!
paul
 
Personally I don't think a wood stove in an RV is a great option, unless it's a large RV and it's going to be parked for an extended time. Yes, it will be messy, clearances are critical for safety. The fire should be out before moving. Closing the damper may not suffocate it. Wood will take up valuable storage space and taking wood across state lines can be illegal.
 
begreen said:
Personally I don't think a wood stove in an RV is a great option, unless it's a large RV and it's going to be parked for an extended time. Yes, it will be messy, clearances are critical for safety. The fire should be out before moving. Closing the damper may not suffocate it. Wood will take up valuable storage space and taking wood across state lines can be illegal.
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Even county lines can be a problem in some areas. It was illegal in pa for a while but they lifted the restriction now that eab is statewide.
 
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