Need a bend in my pipe

[Stephany]

Hi All,

Is there a way to get a 23 degree (from vertical) bend in packed stainless 6" pipe? We are installing our new Avalon Arbor wood stove in our 3 story (separate floors) A-frame cabin. We would like to run the pipe inside the house along the same pitch as the roof (22.5 degrees). The pipe will need to pass through 2 floors then out near the peak of the roof. Our stove dealer had recommended Simpson Duravent pipe, but it only has 15 and 30 degree elbows and 15 and 30 degree firestop shield boxes available.

Do any other pipe manufacturers offer stainless, class A, pipe with a 22 degree elbow and a 22 degree firestop (floor pass-through) box?

Have you ever seen/done a similar installation? The dealer suggested running the pipe outside, but that would require a 20'-ish pipe standing straight up in the air (to get the top 10' from the roof) and my husband is concerned about the stability and appearance of the pipe. He is determined to run the pipe inside!

Got any words of wisdom to toss my way?

Thanks for your help,

Stephany

 

[jtp10181]

Only thing I know that would do odd angles would be adjustable single wall pipe. Not a good option. And it can only be within the same room as the stove itself.

 

[webbie]

I think 15 and 30 is about it - unless someone makes one that spins and is adjustable. Not to my knowledge...

How about double wall interior pipe - does that have any adjustable els?

 

[nshif]

For the pipe to run verticle ( 90 degrees to the floor ) your elbows need to equal 90. ( ie 2 45s ) now when you pass through the ceiling angle ( 25 degrees ) You need an adjustable ceiling box. As well as when you pass through the roof. Or a roof flange for your particular pitch.

 

[Stephany]

Hi Nshif,

Unfortunately, I can't run the pipe vertical (90 degrees to the floor) in the A-frame since it would require that the stove be in the middle of the room and would block access to the upper floors or the outside doors. So I am trying to run the pipe at the same pitch/angle as the sidewall/roof.

Things would be much simpler with straight up and down walls!

Thanks for the response,

Stephany

 

[begreen]

Steph, who is your dealer? They should be proposing a solution for you. Offsite, without a floorplan and some pictures this is a bit hard to visualize.

 

[bmstove.com]

I think with the slop in the joints you could cheat most of the difference out of a 30 degree el. They are not that stiff. Not to mention all the joints between the offset and return. I think you can do it with standard materials. I have never seen anything except 15s and 30s

I SHOULD SAY MOST are not that tight. Some are actually

 

[Stephany]

Hi BeGreen,

We are working with Rich's in Lynnwood, WA. They proposed exiting the first floor of the A-frame with the pipe and running it vertically about 16-20' outside until it is 10' away from the side of the A-frame. Since we are about to install a metal roof and it can get pretty windy on the lake (it is a lakefront cabin), we are concerned about both the stability, how it will attach to the metal roof with out affecting its integrity, and how odd it might look for a vertical pipe to rise from the base of the A-frame. But to be fair, we have not talked with an installer yet, just a very knowlegable salesperson.

Due to the layout of the A-frame, the wood stove needs to be located in a corner with one sloping wall (at 22.5 degrees) and one vertical glass wall (90 degrees). Of couse, we would like to position the stove as far into the corner as possible. (I am trying to post a picture of the corner without much luck.)

Our salesperson did not find an adjustable elbow in the simpson pipe and he said the pipe and elbows did not offer much give. But after searching the 'net tonight, I found that Selkirk Metalbestos offers an adjustable insulated elbow that will adjust from 0 up to 45 degrees, so I think that will help get the pipe to an angle close to the 22.5 degree sloped wall, but I am now wondering if the pipe can go through the ceilings of the first floor and the 2nd floor at the same angle or if they have to go through the floors at a 90 degree angle?

Hope this helps to clarify. If you know of any installers who are experienced in unusual installations I would love to talk to them!

Thanks very much for everyone's help!

Stephany

 

[webbie]

Steph...this may be obvious, but a pellet stove might be a consideration in such a case (or LP gas)........that is a tough venting situation.

 

[Stephany]

Hi Craig,

I agree that a pellet or propane stove would be easier (and cheaper initially too), but we have an unlimited supply of free firewood that is hard to turn away from. Plus a wood fire has always been part of the cabin's charm.

We are actually trying to replace an old iron barrel stove that was installed way too close to combustibles with very little shielding. It used a single walled pipe that ran through all 3 floors (with only a few inches clearance at the floor pass-through) and out the top of the roof. Since it was single walled, there was no problem following the roofline. We had removed the stove to replace the carpet and I freaked when I saw the burnt subfloor under the old stove! So I am trying to find a safer, up to code, solution.

Thanks for the replies,

Stephany

 

[Gooserider]

I would suggest possibly calling Selkirk and / or Simpson tech support and see what they suggest. I could have sworn that I've seen adjustable stuff, but I'm not sure just where - I didn't pay a great deal of attention as I didn't have a need for it.

I know they make angled roof pass through support boxes, but I don't know if those would be useable inside the house, or if you can only use one of them. I would also be concerned about clearance to your joists if going up at an angle - I know the stock vertical boxes pretty much fill a standard 16" space, and need all of it for clearance to the pipe, I suspect you might have to cut and box around one or two joists to go through at an angle. (Can one custom make a spacer / support that would work to go through a floor if you gave it extra clearance, sort of like the rules for going through a vertical wall? If you could do that then presumably you could use the adjustable angle elbow you mentioned on each end, and a straight pipe in the middle.

Would it be possible to use the 30* stuff and not quite follow the roofline? What about using a pair of 90*s to come off the stove, go across the room with just enough tilt to meet code, then go straight up?

I know outside chimneys are evil and generally reccomended against, but what about going straight out the wall, and then running up the outside of the house at whatever angle you can get with stock hardware?

Sounds like time for some "outside the box" thinking, maybe these ideas will help you come up with something that works.

Gooserider

 

[Michael6268]

I agree with Gooserider. If you can, I would go out and up the outside of the structure. It would be way easier and most likely less espensive too. Also, if this stove is going in the corner with a sloped ceiling above, are you sure you are going to get the proper clearance above the stove? A sloped ceiling is almost the same as an alcove, and alcoves have limited ceiling height clearances. If I understand correct you ask if the pipe can go through the ceiling a the same 23deg angle all the way to a roof exit? I dont think it is possible,without a lot of custom firestoping and support boxes. Also the pipe would have to be boxed in on the second and third floor, and at a 23 deg angle, you would need a really wide box, or make a slanted one which wouldnt look good.

 

[nshif]

Steph
How long will this pipe run be? ( from the stove to the chimney cap ) With all these bends and angle run you could be creating a draft problem.

 

[TMonter]

I believe Selkirk can custom fabricate elbows that you need. I've had them do some custom items for some small wood-fired boilers.

You might give your local selkirk rep a call.