Need a new pellet stove

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MomJo

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 8, 2025
6
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Hi All,
I own, and live in, a connected duplex. When we moved into the home in 2015 we installed 2 Castle Serenity Pellet stoves to replace the non-EPA compliant wood burners. One stove has worked like a dream with zero problems. The other has had ongoing issues, replaced ignitor, proof of fire switches, burn pots, control board, and capacitor. Unit worked fine until a random SCE power outage while unit was running. Since then it will not feed pellets even though the control panel thinks it is - I have replaced the auger motor, exchanged the power supply fuse and the Sensor Temperature Unit. And it still will not feed pellets. I have talked at length with Ardisam and have had a tech out from a local repair company, no one can figure out what the problem is, winter is coming and I need a heat source. I am contemplating ordering a new electrical board to see if something was fried but also thinking of calling it quits and replacing the unit. It has been almost a year the unit has not worked, waiting for an appointment in a rural community, and I am at my limit. I need an affordable replacement that I can install myself or insight on the problem. Please and thank you.
 
Hi All,
I own, and live in, a connected duplex. When we moved into the home in 2015 we installed 2 Castle Serenity Pellet stoves to replace the non-EPA compliant wood burners. One stove has worked like a dream with zero problems. The other has had ongoing issues, replaced ignitor, proof of fire switches, burn pots, control board, and capacitor. Unit worked fine until a random SCE power outage while unit was running. Since then it will not feed pellets even though the control panel thinks it is - I have replaced the auger motor, exchanged the power supply fuse and the Sensor Temperature Unit. And it still will not feed pellets. I have talked at length with Ardisam and have had a tech out from a local repair company, no one can figure out what the problem is, winter is coming and I need a heat source. I am contemplating ordering a new electrical board to see if something was fried but also thinking of calling it quits and replacing the unit. It has been almost a year the unit has not worked, waiting for an appointment in a rural community, and I am at my limit. I need an affordable replacement that I can install myself or insight on the problem. Please and thank you.
I would try a new control board. Then you can re-start the troubleshooting. The big box stores have the cheapest pellets stoves if you want a new one, but no service. For full service the extra cost of a dealer might be worth it. Check to see if your electrical panels have whole home surge protection devices. At the minimum the stoves should be plugged into surge bars/plugs.
 
I would try a new control board. Then you can re-start the troubleshooting. The big box stores have the cheapest pellets stoves if you want a new one, but no service. For full service the extra cost of a dealer might be worth it. Check to see if your electrical panels have whole home surge protection devices. At the minimum the stoves should be plugged into surge bars/plugs.
I already replaced the control panel. Considering replacing the wiring harness again. It is frustrating because at this point the unit is brand new based on the internal components replaced.
 
Hi All,
Here is my update for today, despite my shortcomings in other areas, I feel like my pellet stove and I have developed a very close relationship out of necessity. The following are the checks I did today:
  1. I tested for power to the newer auger motor with a multimeter on to the harness side of the wiring to the augur motor. This checked out.
  2. I detached then augur motor from the auger bit and ran the diagnostics for "Feeding" motor did not turn at all.
  3. Thinking the wiring or motor could be bad, I also performed the same test with the old motor (replaced at the suggestion of Ardisam with no verification it was faulty). Then repeated with the old wiring harness and new/old augur motor. Same result.
  4. I also created a jumper switch to bypapss the POF switch, thinking that was the problem. But the auger motor still wont turn...
  5. Is it the capacitor? I have replaced this recently, along with the POF switches. What am I missing?
Please and thank you.....

Jolene
 
Hi All,
Here is my update for today, despite my shortcomings in other areas, I feel like my pellet stove and I have developed a very close relationship out of necessity. The following are the checks I did today:
  1. I tested for power to the newer auger motor with a multimeter on to the harness side of the wiring to the augur motor. This checked out.
  2. I detached then augur motor from the auger bit and ran the diagnostics for "Feeding" motor did not turn at all.
  3. Thinking the wiring or motor could be bad, I also performed the same test with the old motor (replaced at the suggestion of Ardisam with no verification it was faulty). Then repeated with the old wiring harness and new/old augur motor. Same result.
  4. I also created a jumper switch to bypapss the POF switch, thinking that was the problem. But the auger motor still wont turn...
  5. Is it the capacitor? I have replaced this recently, along with the POF switches. What am I missing?
Please and thank you.....

Jolene
If the auger motor is getting power, then it should turn unless it is jammed or bad. The capacitor should not be the problem if it was rep-laced unless there is a bad wire or connection. Can you disconnect the auger motor shaft from the auger and try?
 
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Would this be different from disconnecting the auger motor from the shaft and running the diagnostic mode? When I dd that the motor did not turn at all. Neither with the new motor and new wiring harness nor old wiring harness. Or vice versa, old motor with new and old wiring harness? Sorry for dumb question, its been a tough 24hrs for my community, just trying follow the diagnostic process. Please and thank you.
 
Would this be different from disconnecting the auger motor from the shaft and running the diagnostic mode? When I dd that the motor did not turn at all. Neither with the new motor and new wiring harness nor old wiring harness. Or vice versa, old motor with new and old wiring harness? Sorry for dumb question, its been a tough 24hrs for my community, just trying follow the diagnostic process. Please and thank you.
OK - the only last step would be to run the auger motor attached to the auger using 120V directly to prove the motor is good and the auger free. To do that you will need a fused cord (5 amps 120V). If that all works, the problem must be in the wiring or boards.
Double check the temperature switch and vacuum switch as they are in series with the auger motor.
 

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Can you send me a link to make a connection for a bench test? I can't find any instructions online for the 4 pin wiring harness connection. I live in a rural community with limited resources. I also forced a fire today, added pellets to the burn pot so it would light and create enough heat to close the POF circuit, it worked but the motor still would not turn. Could the auger motor gasket be the problem?
 
Can you send me a link to make a connection for a bench test? I can't find any instructions online for the 4 pin wiring harness connection. I live in a rural community with limited resources. I also forced a fire today, added pellets to the burn pot so it would light and create enough heat to close the POF circuit, it worked but the motor still would not turn. Could the auger motor gasket be the problem?
Here is a little sketch of a fused test cord. Some people just use an old lamp cord with only 2 prongs. One prong will be smaller than the other, and that is hot. Try not to use one where the prongs are the same, as that cord is special. A good extension cord will have the ground also, which if you have it you could attach to any steel on the stove.
The auger motor power should come from a main plug, and you only need to power 2 wires. You have a capacitor which complicates things too. I have a picture from the manual a few posts back. Once you put power directly on the motor (with the plug off the control card) you will see if it turns.
If you are not used to testing/wiring 120V, I would get help with it. It can be dangerous. This would not be a good problem to start with.
Let me know what your plan is, and what you have, and I'll help as much as I can.
 

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