Need advice old fireplace - lots of questions

[jasesun23]

My parents have a gas log fireplace in a back room that hasn't worked in 10 years. They asked me if I could get it working for them so I did some research,ordered some parts, got it working and now am doing a little more research. I feel i connected it correct but that the fireplace was just not built correctly. I'm including some pics since pics say 1000 words

From what I've read and understand this is a masonry fireplace. It has a gas insert with a gas log set. It is a b-vent system which means it takes combustible air from inside the room and vents the hot dangerous gas up the chimney. The room this is in has its own thermostat and hot water heating system so the fireplace is not the heating source. I've read that b vent systems are inefficient but this is mostly for show. Please let me know from pic if this seems like I have it correct.

Some questions:

1) why does this also have a vent in the fire box to the outside? I thought b vent systems draw combustible air from the room. Is this some version of an outside combustible air kit? Its basically just a hole in the brick to the outside. Its about 3 inches by 5 inches with metal grating so animals and bugs can't get in. Should I close this up? Does it help? I sent RH Peterson and email about their safety pilot and include a pic of my system. A person replied that I should seal up that fresh air vent as it can effect the burner adversely. Is that true?

2)The glass doors are bifold doors. Do these need to be open while the fire is on. Can they be closed since there is a vent on the left side of the firebox going outside. There are also vents on the bottom of the metal door frame that can be opened or closed. I recently ran this with the doors closed and the vents in the metal door frame open. After an hour I couldnt' even get close enough to the on/off knob to turn the fire off it was so hot in there. It has the metal heat shield on it. I had to go to the shutoff valve outside to shut off the fire. Did I install something wrong that the fireplace was so hot I couldn't shut it off?

3) the chimney outside does not go above the roof line. I believe this is illegal. The chimney ends about 5 feet short of the roof line and the b type metal liner goes up another 2 feet but is still below the roofline. The diameter of the metal liner is 7 inches. Is that an okay size.

As far as the parts I replace. I installed a new flexible hose from the gas line outside to the piping inside. I installed a new safety valve, a new burner pan. New sand for NG and added some embers. The grate and the ceramic logs set are the old ones as they looked in decent shape.

 

[jasesun23]

In the picture of the chimney you can see the outside air vent on the bottom left of the picture. The metal mesh on the middle top of the chimney I believe is where the exhaust vent originally came out before it was extended up higher.

Most likely a professional will need to be hired to fix this up to code but I still like knowing exactly what I need before speaking to someone so they don't try to sell something I don't

thanks for any help in advance

 

[xtrordinair]

couple things need addressed ,first the flex gas connector should not go through the masonry .the proper way would be a steel nipple ran into the firebox then the flex hooked to that.your valve install for the log will work like that but all the logs i install,i put a couple elbows between the burner and valve to get it further away from the heat.I hope you installed a burner orfice between the valve and burner or you will over heat that valve .The chimney looks as if its single wall pipe ,was the F..P tore down to just above the firebox and that pipe was just stuck on there to try and use it again?

 

[jasesun23]

thanks for the reply.
I'll replace the flex pipe with a solid piece though the masonry. The pre existing hole was just so uneven this was the easiest way to get pipe through. But if thats against code I'll figure a way to change it.

The safety control valve instructions say is comes with a natural gas orifice already installed in it.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=...info-links/manual/254_LowProfile_PilotKit.pdf

Chimney/fireplace was built like that. Nothing was torn down. At the top of the fireplace where the exhaust fumes goes is a square about 7x7 inches (guessing haven't measured). The 8 inch round metal exhaust is on top of that and goes out the chimney as you can see in the picture. I'd guess from the top of the chimney to the top of the firebox is about 4 feet of ducting. You can see the addition 3 to 4 feet of ducting coming above the chimney line.

I emailed RH Petereson who makes the Real Frye safety valve and the person that emailed me back says he has the same safety valve hooked up directly next to the burner pan like I do and the pictures in the instructions show and it doesn't get too hot to turn off after 8 hours of use?

Any ideas to the other question I asked?

 

[xtrordinair]

.your valve install for the log will work like that but all the logs i install,i put a couple elbows between the burner and valve to get it further away from the heat

I only put the elbows on to limit the heat transfer from the burner to the valve, as i said it will work the way you have it.As far as your chimney size if its not spilling any combustion into the home i would say your fine.I would prefer to see the chimney extend over the roof line ,but with just burning a gas log as long as its not venting into the attic space i cant see its to much to be concerned about .If you ever have the home inspected to sell or insurance wants to look at it for some reason you will have to make some changes.

 

[jasesun23]

Was able to update the installation a little. Flex line no longer through the masonry. Extended the safety valve further. Once I drill a small hole through the metal cover I will have the on/off knob on the outside of the firebox.

Anyone have an opinion on the fresh air hole in the firebox. I'm reading it is only necessary for a wood burning fireplace. I mean as is cold air pours through it. The glass door assembly is okay but doesn't block air out completely. Should I brick up the cold air intake like someone recomended to me? or is it a good idea to have there

Also want to make sure that the glass doors should be open during use. RH Peterson guys said they should. The Real Frye log set instructions said they should be. Is there any reason to leave the glass doors closed , for example no exhaust can enter?

 

[DAKSY]

Unless you have PyroCeram in those doors, keep them open when you burn. Tempered glass can't take the heat & it can shatter from the heat.