Ok .. I need help. I have an OWB. The current aquastat is a strap on model working off contact to the water jacket. The manufacturer has since switched to an imersion type and I am told that they are much more efficient and safer so I am looking to retrofit mine. I have only used two of the 1 1/2 inch ports in my boiler so I am thinking i can install it in there. The boiler manufacturer is using a Honneywell L4006A aquastat. I found some on Ebay and thought I was in luck but found out not all l4006A are the same!! Seems there are 4 digits after that and no one can tell me what they stand for .. even wrote honneywell but got no ansewer. Is anyone in the know about these? I need and imersion type operating range to 240 degrees I would guess .. adjustable differential that will kick the blower on at a certain temp.. shout it off at high limit and when it goes back below the low limit start all over again. Like I said I have gound some of these L4006A with a manual high reset, no diffential and some I talk about it being a contact or break set up .. I am so confused!! help!!
Need aquastat help .. in laymans terms!!
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L4006A1017 is probably the most common model like that... but there are a variety.
There are also digital aquastats that will offer better control and a nice display - but digital aquastats are not rated as "safety" devices, so if your current strap-on aquastat still functions, you should leave that in place as a high limit, if you go that route.
Joe
There are also digital aquastats that will offer better control and a nice display - but digital aquastats are not rated as "safety" devices, so if your current strap-on aquastat still functions, you should leave that in place as a high limit, if you go that route.
Joe
I'm not familiar with the model numbers anymore, but the best value in aquastats would be an SPDT type, which can be set up to go either way, i.e., you can make it make the connection on temp rise, or break the connection on temp rise, depending on what you're trying to do. If you go to the Honeywell website and look at the different aquastat models they offer, the spec sheets will tell you which ones are which. I don't think the four numbers after the basic model number are all that important for simple aquastat functions, but I could be wrong on that. In my experience, any SPDT stat with the proper temp range should work, and you'll pay a lot less on Ebay than you will retail.
If you're getting an immersion aquastat, you'll also need a well, which is usually sold separately. Usually they're 1/2-inch tapping.
I'm always confused by the terminology. "Make" and "Break" on rise is one way they describe it. "Close" and "Open" is another way, but I tend to associate "open" with making the connection and "close" with breaking it, but it's exactly the opposite. BTW, all Honeywell SPDT aquastats will tell you on the inside of the cover how to wire it to do what you want.
If you're getting an immersion aquastat, you'll also need a well, which is usually sold separately. Usually they're 1/2-inch tapping.
I'm always confused by the terminology. "Make" and "Break" on rise is one way they describe it. "Close" and "Open" is another way, but I tend to associate "open" with making the connection and "close" with breaking it, but it's exactly the opposite. BTW, all Honeywell SPDT aquastats will tell you on the inside of the cover how to wire it to do what you want.
Thanks for the info!! So any with a SPDT description will work (damn .. the $30 one on ebay got away cuz I just was not sure!) . Ok .. now can you explain the "well" ... I just assumed with the unsued 1 1/2 port I could get an adapter to go to the size of the aquastat ... what does this well do? sorry .. not a heater guys!!
The other type of aquastat is "SPST," and they only go one way, i.e., they either make the connection on rise or break it on rise.
The well is simply a place to slide the aquastat probe into. A half-inch well will screw into a 1/2-inch threaded tapping, so all you need to do is get a well (pretty cheap), and a 1.5 to .5-inch adapter for it to screw into. The aquastat probe, in other words, is isolated from the water.
The well is simply a place to slide the aquastat probe into. A half-inch well will screw into a 1/2-inch threaded tapping, so all you need to do is get a well (pretty cheap), and a 1.5 to .5-inch adapter for it to screw into. The aquastat probe, in other words, is isolated from the water.
Great .. thank you so much ... I did not know the probe was not right in the water .. I just assumed it was!! thanks agian.
I don't know if this will help your situation or not, but I just picked up a Honeywell L7224U electronic aquastat for $135 because I needed to have my oil burner temp set below the 180 degrees which was the lowest setting on the old aquastat. The website has good specs on this if you know what your looking for. Good Luck
Before installing the probe from the aquastat into the well, a heat conductive grease needs to be put in the well first. The heat conductive grease should come with the well, if it doesn't, buy it separately. The probe will not read the temps very accurately without it because of the air gap between the probe and the well.
Marcus
I will check on Tuesday when I get back to work on where we buy ours at and will let you know. I work at Reznor as a Design Engineer and one of my products is the waste oil boilers. I had assumed that the wells we used were coming in with a package of the conductive grease. After some field complaints about fluctuating boiler temps, we found out that with the well we used, the customer had to buy it separately. We have had no more complaints since we started adding the conductive grease.
I will check on Tuesday when I get back to work on where we buy ours at and will let you know. I work at Reznor as a Design Engineer and one of my products is the waste oil boilers. I had assumed that the wells we used were coming in with a package of the conductive grease. After some field complaints about fluctuating boiler temps, we found out that with the well we used, the customer had to buy it separately. We have had no more complaints since we started adding the conductive grease.
Thermal grease increases accuracy, but is not (strictly speaking) necessary. Basically, it reduces the time between a change in temperature in the fluid, and when the aquastat actually responds.
Joe
Joe
The grease still comes with some of the Honeywell controls, a small squeeze packet.
Here's an example of some wells. The one on the left I inserted a piece of 3/8 copper tube to reduce it down to the Euro style, small diameter sensors that are common with mod con boilers and most of the solar controllers.
The well and sensors in the front of the pic is typical of the Prestige and Knight mod con boiler sensors and well assemblies.
hr
Here's an example of some wells. The one on the left I inserted a piece of 3/8 copper tube to reduce it down to the Euro style, small diameter sensors that are common with mod con boilers and most of the solar controllers.
The well and sensors in the front of the pic is typical of the Prestige and Knight mod con boiler sensors and well assemblies.
hr
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I've used the grease and not used the grease and both ways seem to work fine. I'd certainly use if if you can get your hands on some, but don't sweat it if you can't. And it's easy to put in later.
i appreciate all the info you guys give on here!!
you'd be surprised how much ive learned on here alone. im going to use an aquastat for my DHW to switch a zone valve and wondered how these work. now i just gotta figure out where im putting the well?
you'd be surprised how much ive learned on here alone. im going to use an aquastat for my DHW to switch a zone valve and wondered how these work. now i just gotta figure out where im putting the well?
One of the many things I learned on this board is that you can wire an aquastat up to 24v devices like zone valves, as well as straight 120v current. That's pretty cool.
On well placement, always try to get as close to the heat source that you're trying to monitor as you can. So, an aquastat controlling some boiler function should go directly into the boiler jacket if possible. You can sink a well into a tee or any other segment of piping, but be aware that the temps there won't be the same as you'll find in the boiler. This is one thing I wish the EKOs had--a place to sink a well into the return. Since the EKO sensor sits on the top of the boiler vessel, the max temp at the top of the boiler is all it knows. Seems to me that if you could directly monitor the return water temp in the boiler itself and relay that information to the controller, it would be easier to avoid using a mixing valve and instead use a small pump for low return water protection.
I'm not sure why they don't do this, other than it's one more weld prone to failure down the line.
One more note about aquastats: Honeywell makes both strap-on and in-well models of most of its (mechanical) aquastats. The strap-ons are basically no different than the in-well models, except that they have some additional hardware and--lamentably--lack some of the mounting hardware you need to convert them to in-well stats. We're talking about a silly little piece of stamped metal that holds the aquastat housing to the well, but without it, your stat flops around and probably doesn't work as well as a result. So, my point is that if you see a Honeywell strap-on stat on Ebay and what you really want is an in-well model, it will still work, but the installation won't be as pretty, unless you connect the wiring with steel conduit to hold it in place.
Random Thanksgiving morning musings......
On well placement, always try to get as close to the heat source that you're trying to monitor as you can. So, an aquastat controlling some boiler function should go directly into the boiler jacket if possible. You can sink a well into a tee or any other segment of piping, but be aware that the temps there won't be the same as you'll find in the boiler. This is one thing I wish the EKOs had--a place to sink a well into the return. Since the EKO sensor sits on the top of the boiler vessel, the max temp at the top of the boiler is all it knows. Seems to me that if you could directly monitor the return water temp in the boiler itself and relay that information to the controller, it would be easier to avoid using a mixing valve and instead use a small pump for low return water protection.
I'm not sure why they don't do this, other than it's one more weld prone to failure down the line.
One more note about aquastats: Honeywell makes both strap-on and in-well models of most of its (mechanical) aquastats. The strap-ons are basically no different than the in-well models, except that they have some additional hardware and--lamentably--lack some of the mounting hardware you need to convert them to in-well stats. We're talking about a silly little piece of stamped metal that holds the aquastat housing to the well, but without it, your stat flops around and probably doesn't work as well as a result. So, my point is that if you see a Honeywell strap-on stat on Ebay and what you really want is an in-well model, it will still work, but the installation won't be as pretty, unless you connect the wiring with steel conduit to hold it in place.
Random Thanksgiving morning musings......
Eric Johnson said:
Not knowing the EKO's in extreme detail... is there a drain fitting that could be used? For example, if there's a 3/4" NPT tapping with a drain in it, you could install a close nipple and a tee (branch to the side), then install an immersing well in the end of the tee (so it would go all the way through, and into the boiler), and re-install the drain into the branch of the tee.
Alternately, you could install a tee on the return tapping, allowing a well to be placed in the return water stream.
Joe
Gee, I never thought about the drain tapping. That's an excellent idea. It's a standard 1/2 or 3/4-inch tap, as I recall.
I currently have a well in my return line, but it's still not as close as I'd like, and requires flow for an accurate reading.
Thanks for pointing out what should have been obvious!
I currently have a well in my return line, but it's still not as close as I'd like, and requires flow for an accurate reading.
Thanks for pointing out what should have been obvious!
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