Need better draft

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Erich

Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 8, 2008
28
Pennsylvania
I have a Morso 1125 stove (as I recall). I love it so far, and 99.9% of the time it works great. The only complaint I have is when I load it (3 times a day), when I open the doors smoke comes back into the house. When the doors are shut it runs fine with no smoke. I have triple wall chimney pipe. I THINK the problem is the outdoor part of my chimney is only 6 feet tall. I was thinking that if I snapped on another 3 foot section it would help draw the smoke out better. Opinions? Here's a pic of the indoor part of my install. Pretty straightforward, exits out the top, and just 2 45 elbows with a short straight section. If it helps, when I get home tonight I can snap a picture of the outdoor part too.
 

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I think you are right. Chimney is too short to create the proper draft.

Also, make sure you open your air control to HIGH or Wide Open before you open you doors. Also open the doors VERY slowly.

pen
 
Yes, the problem is w/o a doubt your short chimney! Most stoves manufacturers recommend at least 15' of chimney, so you're way short. I'd start by adding another 6' to your flue and go from there... you might need as much as 9' more feet to get everything functioning properly.

You also have a short vertical coming out of the stove, dropping the stove down and adding more vertical rise before the exiting the interior will improve things as well.
 
Thanks for the fast answers.

Pen, I will remember to open the doors slowly, but there is no way to open the control air before opening the doors, this stove is kind of weird. To control the rate of burn, there are no dampers like most stoves have. This stove has a hollow handle that it draws air through, and the door also has a sort of cam built into the handle so the more you turn the handle, the more it basically props the bottom of the door open to basically allow a controlled leak. Strange, but basically no different in concept than regular dampers. And it doesn't open enough to let coals roll out or anything like that.

Wet1, wow, 6 or 9 feet? That will stick way up higher than the peak of my roof and look funny! Oh well, gotta do what I gotta do! I'll try that before messing with the interior piping.
 
An Out door pic would be great too. Are there trees or hills close to the house/chimney or another part of the house/addition that is higher than what you already have?
 
Before you go out and spend a bunch, get a $3.00 piece (or two) of 6" heat duct (its either 3 or 4 feet long). Add it to the top of your pipe and see if that does the trick. If so, then replace it with the appropriate pipe.

For a few bucks, you can "test" the stack height theory that way.
 
Why did you not just go straight up through the ceiling? I see no reason for a through-the-wall.
 
Erich said:
I have my reasons.
As Dr. Phil would say, "How's that working for you?".

Open a window a couple minutes before you open the stove to balance the pressure.
 
LLigetfa said:
Erich said:
I have my reasons.
As Dr. Phil would say, "How's that working for you?".

Open a window a couple minutes before you open the stove to balance the pressure.

haha I hate Dr phil but that quote is fitting, painful but fitting
 
Going through the ceiling was impossible for a few reasons, I don't see a reason to get into it, I was just looking for solutions to fix my current problem, not defend the install. Lots of people go through the wall and don't have draft problems.
 
Well, as said above the problem is certainly the height of the chimney. Adding another 6 feet won't look dumb. In fact, anyone who knows a stove will see that chimney and say to themselves, "Wow. That guy knows what he's doing."

Just trying to make you feel better about it. :cheese:
 
Erich said:
I don't see a reason to get into it...
Perhaps to serve as a warning to others.

(broken image removed)

OK, enough of the should'a/would'a/could'a stuff. You got the answer you didn't want.
 
Erich said:
Here's the chimney.

Another thing you may try is on the outside where the indoor pipe meets the outside is to change it from a T connector to a 45 elbow, this way the smoke makes a curve up instead of meeting a dead end and having to splitting up and down. I'm sure the T provides some air flow disturbance and turbulence. I know that in dust collector system for wood working we try to avoid any T's and try to make all turns as gradual as possible in order to reduce the amount of static pressure loss. Granted this may improve your draft but cleaning...well :-S
 
LLigetfa said:
Erich said:
I don't see a reason to get into it...
Perhaps to serve as a warning to others.

(broken image removed)

OK, enough of the should'a/would'a/could'a stuff. You got the answer you didn't want.

Put 6 more feet on and draft problem went away completely. Thanks for your help smartass.

Seriously, thanks to everyone else who DID help.
 
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