Need Chimney Advice

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micah

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 1, 2007
56
Central Pennsylvania
My wife and I bought a new Quadra-Fire 4300 wood stove and would like to move it to a new room. To do this we obviously need a new chimney. I have been looking around and noticed that alot of people in my area have been installing (by themselves) tripple wall stainless steal pipe. I have called around and the only company in my area that sells it told me that triple wall pipe is nolonger used. That he recommends double wall its "safer". He also told me that its $200 for a 4 FOOT SECTION!!! Now my house is about 30-35 foot at its hightest peak. So I'm figuring around $2k just for pipe not including going through the wall and all the hook up and cap or labor. Would it be cheaper just to have someone build a cinder block chimney? Im haveing a hard time getting ahold of someone in my area to come give me an estimate to have one built. Could someone post that had one done recently with how much they paid?

Thanks
 
A cinder block chimney would be many times the cost of that. More likley in the 10-15k range. But more qualified experts are sure to chime in soon.
 
Is that true that there is no triple wall any more? Well, whether there is or not, they are simply calling for class A chimney, so you don't have to worry much about the exact construction of it.

The masonry chimney will not work nearly as good, unless you build it special with insulation, etc.,
 
So i could use the $200 4' piece to go through the wall then use cheaper (as in price) stuff the go up the rest of the way? That sound do able for me. My only concern would be whether or not the single wall would rust or be affected by weather, or is all chimney pipe stainless or galvanized?
 
Webmaster said:
No, metal is saying that INSIDE you don't need to use Class A. The rule is basically this - once you start with Class A you must use it from there to the end (top). No going back.

Yeah i guess that makes sence. Basicly im looking for Class A whether is triple, double, quadrua, sepetual wall doesnt matter.
 
Micah,

I just bought all the parts for my new chimney and it cost $720.00 for all the requisite pieces for a through the ceiling/roof install. It is metalbestos(brand) with 10' of 6" chimney pipe.

I have to make a small chase for the roof since the pipe will exit through the ridge.

I am using double wall stove pipe inside and that will probably be another $150.00 or so.

You could run the chimney on the exterior of your house, but I would not recommend it. It would be less expensive but , I think, uglier and possibly not as effective since it will be exposed to the cold.

You can buy less expensive chimney pipe at the big box stores, and I'm sure a lot of people do. I bought mine from the stove dealer, since he gave me 15% off and metalbestos is a well known quality brand. Plus if I need any parts I can go to the dealer and he generally has the stuff in stock year round. Unlike the seasonal availability of the big box stores.

You can also order online, but then you have to pay for shipping.

It's not cheap, however, you should only have to do it once.

J.P.
 
I hadnt really thought of a through the ceiling/roof install. How is it ran through the room above it? I would image you have to enclose it with something like a brick box. How does it seal when it exits the roof. We just had a new metal roof put on this year and i wouldnt want to void any warrenties.
 
Your install would look something like this. You may need to get a dead soft flashing in order to follow the bends in the metal roof.

P.S. The Class A in the Big Boxes are made by the same companies that sell it to wholesalers and pass the same tests. For instance, Selkirk-Metalbestos supplies Lowe's.
 

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I just installed the same stove through a metal roof. No 2nd story though. I have 14' of double wall vent pipe inside and 10' of triple wall class A from the ceiling to the cap. It cost me around 1500$ and I did the install.
You will need a chase around the class A where it passes through the 2nd story just a standard wall around the pipe meeting the pipe clearence requirments ( 2" with triple wall dont know for double )
Triple wall is still available, I just did this a month ago.
They make high temp boots for where the class A passes through the metal roof, I got mine from my roof supplier, so no warrenty issue. They are pricey. They are like the ones around your vent pipes only high temp and bigger.
 
Micah said:
I hadnt really thought of a through the ceiling/roof install. How is it ran through the room above it?

You will get a fire stop kit to go through the 2nd floor. Then enclose in a chase (2 X 4 framed box with drywall finish) and up through your attic if you have one.

Then when you go through your roof you have a couple of options.

You can get a boot, high temp silicone, and seal it to the roof. However there is the potential for leaks with this method as the seal is completley dependent on a caulk joint which will fail sometime in the future. Could be five or ten years or a few months. Depends on who installs it.

If you can get your roofer back, and they are able to cut the roof and slip a piece of flashing underneath the roof and around the chimney pipe flashing, then you will have a much better install. Less likely to leak, and if you can see the chimney, it will look better since there is not this enormous rubber boot glued and screwed to your roof.

Flashing the roof penetration is key to a good install. Relying on caulk is not such a good idea, at least that is my opinion.

Of course it is the only way to keep water from coming in around the chimney pipe and storm collar.

If someone could come up with a decent storm collar flashing that didn not rely 100% on caulk for a weather type seal, they would have it made.

J.P.
 
SmokinJoe said:
Micah said:
I hadnt really thought of a through the ceiling/roof install. How is it ran through the room above it?



You can get a boot, high temp silicone, and seal it to the roof. However there is the potential for leaks with this method as the seal is completley dependent on a caulk joint which will fail sometime in the future. Could be five or ten years or a few months. Depends on who installs it.

If you can get your roofer back, and they are able to cut the roof and slip a piece of flashing underneath the roof and around the chimney pipe flashing, then you will have a much better install. Less likely to leak, and if you can see the chimney, it will look better since there is not this enormous rubber boot glued and screwed to your roof.
J.P.
00

That may work on a flat roof but not on a delta rib.
 
i got the HD special chimney. cheap. i was in the dealers warehouse the othe day picking up some micore for another job and saw the exact same pipe for what i was quoted to be triple the price. as for the roof you should flash it. calking will. fail. if you have a ribbed roof it can be done, just takes some work.
 
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