Does the stove have an adjustable trim rate? Certainly looks like you have too much fuel being feed in. Trim it down a few levels and it should help with the clinker/full pot issue!
Need contact info for Enviro....
- Thread starter rhider
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
I found that there is a jumper setting on the control board to adjust the "off time" for the auger. It was set to 2.0 seconds off time on hi setting. There is 1.5, 2.0, and 2.5 off time settings. I changed it to 2.5 off time today before the start up. Hope this is the problem...
I'd also change that 1/4" hardware cloth for 1/2" you have a damper to do the air flow restriction with and you don't need any additional avoidable restriction in the air intake. The goal of the screening on an OAK is to keep small critters out. The little bit of difference between the 1/4" and 1/2" is substantial for the cross sectional area. Your OAK really should be one size all the way from the stove to the outside of your house and it should have as few and as gentle bends as possible. Bends are air flow restrictions.
You changed more than just the off time in high with that jumper you changed the maximum output you can get from the stove and all of the other firing parameters. You now have your stove in the 50,000 Btu mode.
I see that this also changed the stove to 50k btu. I have started running on level 3 and closed back the damper a little bit. Seems to be running better but i now seem to have another problem.... GRRRRRR
Twice now it has stopped feeding pellets and the fire would burn out and the heat level 3 light would flash. Pushed on/off button and it would restart fine. This morning I went to check the stove and it was still running like normal, no flashing light, convection fan blowing but no fuel dropping. It was just about completely burnt out. I am thinking vaccume switch? Why am i having so many problems with this stove?? About ready to tell the dealer I have a lemon and want a whole new stove!
Take a deep breath, stop and think for a while.
The number one cause of a bad burn (pile ups etc ...) is bad air flow through the stove . This starts at the air intake and ends at the termination cap of your venting. The normal cause of bad air flow is ash in the works. If you have been struggling with a stove for a long period of time it is likely that the continuous bad burns caused by incorrect setup and attempts at fixing things has led to major ash piles in the stoves air passages starting just above the burn pot and ending at the termination cap.
If the ash buildup is bad enough it can lead to various symptoms including high temperature shut downs.
So the very first thing I would do is clean that stove and its all of its venting, this is a full blown remove combustion blower ( having a gasket on hand and cleaning it and the cavity it sits in) style cleaning which includes thumping on the firebox walls if they are not made of cast,. the use of stiff brushes (including vent brush), and Xena will apply the skillet to my head for this the employment of a large airflow suction device to the vent after removing and cleaning the termination cap (my recommended high airflow suction device is the leaf blower).
It is also possible that the pot pile ups are causing a reducing burn that is hotter than a normal burn (this by itself might cause a high limit trip) but the cause of this situation is same as what causes the bad burn.
It becomes a vicious cycle and people lose sight of the actual problem and tend to treat the symptoms.
Now I'm just preaching here as an ordained minister of the Church of The Clean Pellet Stove so don't hit me too hard
.
The number one cause of a bad burn (pile ups etc ...) is bad air flow through the stove . This starts at the air intake and ends at the termination cap of your venting. The normal cause of bad air flow is ash in the works. If you have been struggling with a stove for a long period of time it is likely that the continuous bad burns caused by incorrect setup and attempts at fixing things has led to major ash piles in the stoves air passages starting just above the burn pot and ending at the termination cap.
If the ash buildup is bad enough it can lead to various symptoms including high temperature shut downs.
So the very first thing I would do is clean that stove and its all of its venting, this is a full blown remove combustion blower ( having a gasket on hand and cleaning it and the cavity it sits in) style cleaning which includes thumping on the firebox walls if they are not made of cast,. the use of stiff brushes (including vent brush), and Xena will apply the skillet to my head for this the employment of a large airflow suction device to the vent after removing and cleaning the termination cap (my recommended high airflow suction device is the leaf blower).
It is also possible that the pot pile ups are causing a reducing burn that is hotter than a normal burn (this by itself might cause a high limit trip) but the cause of this situation is same as what causes the bad burn.
It becomes a vicious cycle and people lose sight of the actual problem and tend to treat the symptoms.
Now I'm just preaching here as an ordained minister of the Church of The Clean Pellet Stove so don't hit me too hard
.
Smoky, thanks for the advise. I have done weekly cleanings of the stove since installed. That was
just in February this year. I have had the combustion fan out twice to change with a higher CFM fan and the was no ash. I have yet to do the leaf blower thing due to my thoughts that there CANT be ash build up after 1/2 ton pellets in brand new venting. I guess I could go there for the hell of it.... I am just starting to wonder what kind of "deal" I got for this floor model stove!! I came home to a cold stove again tonight and heat level 3 light flashing. Ran great for over 24 hours....started right back up. Tech manual says it is "exhaust temp switch contacts have opened" not a high limit temp sensor trip. Seems the stove just stops dropping pellets in the burn pot. Wouldn't that say the vaccume switch?
just in February this year. I have had the combustion fan out twice to change with a higher CFM fan and the was no ash. I have yet to do the leaf blower thing due to my thoughts that there CANT be ash build up after 1/2 ton pellets in brand new venting. I guess I could go there for the hell of it.... I am just starting to wonder what kind of "deal" I got for this floor model stove!! I came home to a cold stove again tonight and heat level 3 light flashing. Ran great for over 24 hours....started right back up. Tech manual says it is "exhaust temp switch contacts have opened" not a high limit temp sensor trip. Seems the stove just stops dropping pellets in the burn pot. Wouldn't that say the vaccume switch?
If the level three light flashing is loss of fire then you should go looking for bridging or a fines plug in the auger path starting at the hopper and ending at the end of the drop shoot. If your stove is running high low it is also possible that your feed trim needs to be adjusted for heat level one.
You could also have a loose connection on the low limit snap disc or the area behind that switch is dirty (read ashy).
With a high ash pellet it is possible to plug the air passages between the combustion blower cavity burning very few pellets if the stove is not burning correctly. If the stove was a previously burned floor model it may not be as clean as you think it is.
Nobody here can look over your shoulder and say oh what's that mess there.
Your bad burn can also be because of a bad door gasket or if there is a ash drawer gasket or the retaining clamps aren't fully engaged and compressing the gasket to the ash pan drawer.
If I forget to have my clips closed my burn goes to hell in a hand basket.
You could also have a loose connection on the low limit snap disc or the area behind that switch is dirty (read ashy).
With a high ash pellet it is possible to plug the air passages between the combustion blower cavity burning very few pellets if the stove is not burning correctly. If the stove was a previously burned floor model it may not be as clean as you think it is.
Nobody here can look over your shoulder and say oh what's that mess there.
Your bad burn can also be because of a bad door gasket or if there is a ash drawer gasket or the retaining clamps aren't fully engaged and compressing the gasket to the ash pan drawer.
If I forget to have my clips closed my burn goes to hell in a hand basket.
- Status
Similar threads
