Need help identifying this monster boiler

[Doug_S]

This thing is in my basement minus the heat exchanger and I'm thinking about putting it back on line. I believe it was built into the house around 1985. I would like to understand it's internal plumbing before I mess with it.
Anyone know the manufacturer?

Thanks,
Doug

 

[webbie]

Hmm, something doesn't look stock!

This looks homemade and/or from well before 1985. Any real boiler would have not had manual air controls on it!

As it stands, it looks circa 1978 or previously and/or local/homemade, etc. Can you carefully inspect the inside of the cast iron door for foundry markings or stamps?

 

[Doug_S]

Yes I see what you mean. The door looks like plate steel with no markings on the inside.
Look like brick under top insulation. It's plumbed to the hot water heater and I expect originally had a water to air heat exchanger closed loop that was removed when gas furnace was replaced.
Being 8ft long I'm guessing it has a storage tank in the rear. What do you think about updating it?
Here's more photos:

 

[webbie]

From afar it's tough to suggest anything except scrapping the thing! Not to say it would not work to a degree, but the efficiency would likely be terrible and you'd have to do lots of work on controls, etc.

It all depends on your needs and your pocketbook. I'm going to say this is a on-off boiler....so advice on it is tough!

 

[Doug_S]

Thanks for the straight out thoughts.... no sugar coating here What do you suggest as a replacement?
Here's the control system - Thermostat controls 2 pumps

 

[McKraut]

I am certainly no expert but this looks like it was either home made or locally made.

Bob

 

[BoilerMan]

I'll second the home-made thinking. Looks like a well done job as far as home brew boilers go. The rubber hose and clamps on the pump make me skeptical though, no rubber of any type should be in a boiler system IMHO.

TS

 

[webbie]

Well, if you are going to replace it my first thought is start from scratch and have a heat loss done on the home. Also, remove that insulation and see if some storage is there - pressurized or non-pressure. Once you have a handle on how many BTU's you need, then it's easier to shop boilers.

In general, I (we, probably) suggest the high efficiency downdraft "gasification" boilers and storage. If you want an all-in-one and have the room, check out the new Garn Jr.

If you decide to wing it for a year with this thing, check the storage situation as well as the exact config of the water jacket around it. and then make some modifications. First should be a method of draft control which is automatic. This can be done with either an electric damper installed over a sheet metal manifold on the door (covering those air inlets) or even a Samson or Ammark type control - which responds to boiler water temps.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ammark-and-samson-draft-controls.98755/
http://theboilerman.biz/calorstat_damper_draft_control.htm

Also, if the firebox is oversized, using refractory bricks to whittle it down may help with combustion.