Need help planning my liner install

[onesojourner]

Here is what my set up will be:
fire place size:
width: 26
height:26 (after new hearth install)
depth: 18

I am 99% sure I will be going with the jotul f100.




I finally got my damper cut out of my fireplace and I am working on figuring out What liner kit is going to work best with my stove, www.chimneylinerinc.com seems the have the best prices that I have found. Here are a few pics of my damper area:

The piece of turf I am holding up is 7 inches long. What is the actual dimensions of a 6 inch ss liner with the insulation wrap? Could I just skip wrapping the first couple feet of the liner? Its going to be tight in there either way I think. I am unsure of what bottom attachment I should get. I am afraid if I get a Standard T, removable snout and clean out cap that it may end up pointing up with the way the liner is going to come through the bottom of the chimney. I guess that really depends on how flexible these liners really are. I am going to be running out of space though. It looks like the f100 needs about 22" to run the pipe out the back. That Leaves me with about 4 inches to work with.

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I plan on the back of the stove setting pretty much flush with the front of the fire place. I think this will be pretty close to me set up:

Would I be better off going with the Standard Liner to appliance vertical connector and then adding some stove pipe to it?

Any ways I am babbling and thinking out loud know. If any of you gurus has any tips that would be great.

 

[Wet1]

Unless I'm missing something (possible), I would put the horizontal "Tee" on the end of the liner and come out at 90°, the single wall flex is pretty flexible.

You probably wont have room for wrap if you only have a 7" flue. The liner is about 6.25 OD, plus an 1"+ for the wrap. If you only have to worry about passing through the damper, I'm sure you could get away for a small uninsulated section. If the flue is 7" all the way, consider a 5.5" wrapped liner or 6" and pour the insulation in.

 

[oconnor]

You could skip the first few feet of the liner for insulation, given that the fireplace build is more robust than the flue itself (see the diagram above). You can also get thinner insulation (1/4")that needs a double wrap to get the total effect - better than the thicker stuff as you won't have a seam where it's 1/2" thick, and you could get 1/4 inch at the bottom - better than nothing.

 

[onesojourner]

Oh yeah sorry the only tight spot is going to be right at the bottom where it comes through the damper.

In this pic http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll311/onesojourner/Screenshot-2.png


Where you see the line that represents the block of plate I guess I only have about 4 inches.

http://www.chimneylinerinc.com/images/stack08.jpg

The T connector looks like it will come down to low by the time it is connected to the liner.

 

[stejus]

With a 7" flue, you will have issues stuffing down the liner with insulation wrapped around it. It might get snagged or ripped as you push down. I had an 8"x10" clay flue and my installer said no way to wrapping with insulation, it's too tight. He ended up pouring in the insulation.

 

[onesojourner]

stejus the only tight spot is right at the damper. The rest of the chimney is huge 13x9 or something like that, unlined brick.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll311/onesojourner/IMG_5461.jpg

 

[stejus]

stejus the only tight spot is right at the damper. The rest of the chimney is huge 13x9 or something like that, unlined brick.

Oh, then in that case, just wrap up to the point where it meets the lintel. The few feet of unwrapped liner near the stove will not be a problem. If there is any creosote buildup, it will burn off every morning with a good hot fire.

 

[Wet1]

Where you see the line that represents the block of plate I guess I only have about 4 inches.

http://www.chimneylinerinc.com/images/stack08.jpg

The T connector looks like it will come down to low by the time it is connected to the liner.

I guess I must be missing something then. I fail to see how you're planning to connect the vertical connector to the stove (especial if you don't have room for an elbow) if you don't use that Tee. I don't see why the Tee wouldn't work. It looks like you have a nice straight shot coming down into your damper and then a straight 90° shot to the stove where it would connect at the rear...

 

[RAY_PA]

you shouldnt have any problem. What is the total length of the liner? Nice hydro turf-is it the B Stock? I lined the entire floor of my boat with the B stock turf and I absolutly love it.

 

[onesojourner]

It actually will have to jog forward at the damper. There is a brick ledge at the back of the chimney at the very bottom. Here is a pic that shows what I am worried about.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll311/onesojourner/fireplaceoutline.jpg


This is what I was thinking with the other connector:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll311/onesojourner/2.jpg

 

[Wet1]

The liner has a good amount of flex to it and the fittings can be tilted a little as well at the joints. I would think you'd have enough room and and slop to get it to work w/o issues. My fathers was the same way and I had no problem getting the tee to work just fine when I installed his. Then again, you obviously have a better perspective of what you're dealing with...

I'd order the kit with the Tee but and see if they will exchange it should you need something different.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[BrotherBart]

I had the same situation with the angle. Solved it by using a 30 degree stainless elbow attached to the liner.

 

[onesojourner]

BrotherBart can you post a few more pics of your install?Is the right side of the picture the back of your fire place?

 

[BrotherBart]

The 30-NC pretty much fills the entire fireplace so all you would see is stove.

Yep. The back of the fireplace is to the right.

 

[BrotherBart]

The 30-NC pretty much fills the entire fireplace so all you would see is stove.

Yep. The back of the fireplace is to the right.

wire going into behind stove is blower? i'd foil walls around stove 4 heat reflection if i didnt have to move to virginia

First you would have to actually buy a wood stove Pook.

 

[Wet1]

:cheese:

 

[BrotherBart]

but tell me= is that brick monolith exposed to outdoors?

Yup.