Need help sourcing collapsible 8" stove pipe for ongoing stove cleaning.

[ksnh603]

I have a Hearthstone Equinox with approximately 4' of single wall black stove pipe between the top-exit outlet of the stove and the in-ceiling adapter to the double wall pipe that continues through ceiling and roof. The chimney has a serious draft that makes an in-line damper just above the stove mandatory. The draft is strong enough so that the the trash bag used to temporarily cover the open ceiling pipe snaps in and out so it sounds like a party noisemaker (the blowout kind where it unfurls when you blow!).

I have a slip section on the existing single wall pipe that was intended to allow me to collapse (shorten) the pipe so I could lift it up and off the stove exit lip to allow vacuuming of the stove interior after chimney cleaning and cleaning of the pipe below the damper, but the creosote buildup on the facing surfaces (even directly after cleaning) is enough so I can't twist/loosen the slip ring or its dance partner to shorten the pipe. I use a creosote-reducing additive, but the pipe issue has not changed for the better after regular use of the additive.

I'm looking for suggestions for a pipe setup where I can retain some form of damper and have the ability to collapse the pipe as needed, but where the collapsing/telescoping is specifically designed for ongoing movement in a creosote environment, as opposed to one-time adjustment when pipe is installed. TIA!

 

[DougA]

I have that set up. I used an Ultra Black 60" telescoping section that is double wall. You need to take care handling the telescoping section. It is a very tight fit and if you jam them together too tight, they are impossible to get apart. Make sure your other pipe is compatible, some aren't. The telescoping fitting does not leak air at all. I spent half an hour just trying to figure out how the telescoping sections fit into each other correctly. Very tight fit and it's better with a helper.

I did my installation without a damper and ran into serious over draft problems right away. I put a proper double wall damper on and it has helped but not the huge difference I expected. There is a secondary air inlet right beside the primary and I covered it with some magnetic sheets. That helped. I have an OAK on mine and in my installation, I could not find a way to damper the inlet. That's a better way to go if you can do it.

Yes, you can push together the telescoping section for chimney cleaning. That's how I do it. PITA but easier than pulling out your baffle.

 

[BobUrban]

I have Duravent from stove to the exit straight up through the house. StOve pipe is dbl wall telescoping and I have never had trouble w creosote not allowing it to function properly. Note, this may be better pipe but I would seriously look into why you are getting so much creo in the first place. Burning practices? Unseasoned wood? Other? As this would likely solve your problem while retaining the pipe you have.

You can install a key type damper on any pipe so that shouldn't be an issue and I will second the method of slowing the intake air as well as use of a damper to slow and control the flow.

 

[ksnh603]

Thank you for the replies!

I have a damper on my existing single wall pipe. That's why I know that it would be mandatory for any replacement pipe solution. I also bought the part of the Equinox's optional external air intake that attaches to the stove and which provides a round 3" pipe fitting to allow connection to a remote air intake. I installed a cut-to-fit 3" damper just inside that fitting to allow extra control of overall airflow.

As for creosote, once the fire-facing surfaces of the pipes lose their just-cleaned smoothness it becomes nearly impossible to collapse the telescopic section. My primary question for this forum after reading the above posts (where people do have success collapsing with both single and double wall pipe) is: can anyone link me (or direct me) to what you used for pipe and miscellany? I don't want to re-buy the same setup from my local shop and then eventually discover that I re-bought the same problem because of slightly mis-formed pipe, etc.

I also would appreciate any feedback on the pros and cons (other than cost) of single wall vs. double wall pipe for the initial run of pipe between the stove and the ceiling. I ask because it seems that there are telescoping solutions for both types of pipe, and I would like to gather as much info as possible about the characteristics of both choices. For example, the single wall pipe will obviously dissipate more heat before the stove output reaches the double wall pipe; how does that effect the amount and location of creosote buildup? And are there draft differences between the two pipe types? Etc!

As an FYI, all my piping is unreduced from the 8" size that leaves the Equinox.

 

[DougA]

I was going to reply about the wood issue and thought better not to. I found more creosote when I cleaned my chimney after one full year of operating the Equinox than I was expecting. I only burn <18% wood. Then I thought about the fact that most people are running a stove that is almost half the size with half the wood and half the heat, so they will also get half the creosote. Simple.

Yes, the telescoping pipe would be impossible to move if there was any build up at all. I have to give it a giant hug and twist and push up at the same time to get any movement. I've only done it once and not sure how many times I can repeat it before I damage the pipe.

http://www.icc-rsf.com/main.php?t=chem_produits&i=28&d=&l=en
This is the link to the one I used. The code is UBAF from ICC chimneys. I had no choice when I bought as all the dealers in my region only sell that brand for 8" and I couldn't source it from anyone else. Not cheap stuff
I put my adjustable length after a24" piece above the stove. The collar adapter on the stove itself is a much tighter fit to get on correctly and I did not want to have to remove that section ever again.

Let me know if there are any other specific questions. Be glad to help.

 

[BobUrban]

Duravent works well for me dbl wall to the cealing. Then into triple wall class A Duravent through the house and roof. I have a big fire box and burn 4-5 cord or more per season and although it isn't slippery it telescopes every time I want to remove it.

I am guessing you have triple wall from the cealing on as well. Or at least some form of Class A pipe/chimney. I believe it is code. Duravent is stainless. Painted black and have lifetime warrantee. Dbl wall is safer and offers tighter clearance tolerances to combustibles. Your stove is designed to omit as much heat as possible. Using your stovepipe for heat is not the best practice. A dbl wall will retain more heat in the pipe and build up less creosote all other things being equal.

 

[ksnh603]

Thanks again for the replies. I embedded pictures to show the pipe setup. The long look up the main chimney is to pacify the creosote police!

What you see is:

- Raised lip on the Equinox which receives the first section of pipe.
- Approx. 50" single wall pipe including slip section.
- Close-up of slip section.
- In-ceiling two-way union between 8" single wall pipe to stove and 8" double wall pipe from union to chimney cap.
- Long look directly up main chimney.​

Note: There is much more creosote on the interior of the single wall pipe that exits the stove than inside the double wall pipe. I want to replace the single wall pipe that is directly above the stove with double wall pipe, and hope that the slip section will be more functional over time and that the creosote buildup just above the stove will be reduced.

Questions:

1. I believe that simplest setup would involve a short damper section (http://www.icc-rsf.com/main.php?t=chem_produits&i=37&d=&l=en) and a two-piece pipe assembly w/fixed and slip sections (http://www.icc-rsf.com/main.php?t=chem_produits&i=28&d=&l=en). Those components will create a three section pipe that will telescope from approx. 44" to 74", which should span the first gap above the stove to the in-ceiling pass-through and collapse to allow periodic pipe removal. Any feedback about that setup?

2. Does the entire in-ceiling union that currently joins the two types of pipe need to be replaced, or does it disassemble so the hanging single wall pipe can be replaced without removing the entire union from the ceiling? And whatever the answer, any clear description of the parts would help!

3. How do you mark your piping so that screw hole overlap can be easily restored after sections are separated and rejoined? Or do you just keep spinning one section at a time until you get lucky?​