Need help with a wood pellet stove

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bvriley

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 9, 2008
4
northeast ohio
Could anyone tell me about a wood stove that was given to me. It came with no manual. it says that it is a warnock hersey model # 25 pfs manf date is 4/95 I was wondering who makes it and what is the going price for them. I would like to sell it . it is in good condition but do not know anything about it.

:)
 
You haven't found the manufacturer yet. You found the name of the lab that certified the testing on that model. Are you sure it's a pellet stove? If so, I'll move your thread to the Pellet Mill where the real expertise on those appliances resides. Lemme know. Rick
 
Can you provide a picture of it?
This would help determine who the mfr of the stove is.
 
Here is a picture of the stove
 

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hcsoccermom said:
Could anyone tell me about a wood stove that was given to me. It came with no manual. it says that it is a warnock hersey model # 25 pfs manf date is 4/95 I was wondering who makes it and what is the going price for them. I would like to sell it . it is in good condition but do not know anything about it.

:)
Click to expand...

Lowes and Home Depot sell them.

Eric
 
HD and Lowes don't sell those old dinosaurs. They sell the new ones. Look at the diameter and location od the flue! 6" and on the top. Filling the hopper must be fun, having a 6" flue pipe in the way!
 
I did not wanna say much but what kinda heat loss do you think the 6" exhaust steals?

Eric
 
hcsoccermom said:
what is the going price for one of these. I would liketo sell it since we do not use it.
Click to expand...

Looks like it's in pretty good shape, I'd give ya $20 if you can deliver it.
 
imacman said:
Could the exhaust be downsized to 4" with an adapter and still run OK?
Click to expand...
no!

this is a hybrid, its a pellet stove which is drafted like a woodstove. its a positive pressure induction burn. basically the stove feeds pellets into a burn pot which is fed air by a blower shoving air INTO the firebox not by a draft blower SUCKING air through the burn pot. the fire is fed by a blower but it is not strong enough to blow the exhaust out the stack. therefore the exhaust is drawn out of the top of the firebox by the natural draft of a standard chimney just as would be connected to a log burning traditional woodstove.
 
Seagull said:
Crausch...Thank you for the link to the 25-pfs, Englander-I just bought this exact stove, to replace my woodburning stove with...I am getting too old to work wood year round, so happy to find this stove and BONUS, manual on the WWW! Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Did you buy that at an auction last weekend? Just curious.
 
Don2222 said:
Hello Seagull

I was just wondering how much you paid? I am working on a 25-PFS just like that and replacing the draft blower. This stove has been running for 20 years and still works good!

See my 25-PFS post
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-the-same-but-the-new-part-has-changed.94252/
Click to expand...
I paid $400.00...the gentleman I bought it from said he replaced the draft blower last year.
He also said that this stove heated his 2200' sq ft, home with ease.

I figure this stove will slide right in where my wood stove is currently sitting, which also has a 6" chimney pipe, possibly just a few alterations in the length of stove pipe. Not sure which way yet, as it is still in the truck, waiting for the young people to come for Thanksgiving.
I had looked at a few others, while handsome, they seemed very small and lightweight, compared to this one, if a "dinosaur"...LOLO!,
So is my old farmhouse!
Should I remove/replace the damper, section?
 
you can leave the damper in the flue pipe, just start with it all the way open then if the draft develops too heavily and we want to trap some heat just gradually close it down bit by bit to slow the draft down a bit, remember dont just close it off though as we need some draft to pull the stove. if the fire changes to a lazy looking burn or it starts pushing smoke out of the unit you have it way too closed off.

every chimney drafts slightly different though so a litle "T&E" may be neccessary to find the sweet spot with the key damper
 
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Seagull said:
I paid $400.00...the gentleman I bought it from said he replaced the draft blower last year.
He also said that this stove heated his 2200' sq ft, home with ease.

I figure this stove will slide right in where my wood stove is currently sitting, which also has a 6" chimney pipe, possibly just a few alterations in the length of stove pipe. Not sure which way yet, as it is still in the truck, waiting for the young people to come for Thanksgiving.
I had looked at a few others, while handsome, they seemed very small and lightweight, compared to this one, if a "dinosaur"...LOLO!,
So is my old farmhouse!
Should I remove/replace the damper, section?
Click to expand...

Very Interesting, my friend paid $800 used for the stove about 10 years ago to replace the wood stove with a 6" flue also! The draft fan just went but everything else is good so you should be all set! Good Luck. I will be replacing the fan next week and see how this one works.
 
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Don2222 said:
Very Interesting, my friend paid $800 used for the stove about 10 years ago to replace the wood stove with a 6" flue also! The draft fan just went but everything else is good so you should be all set! Good Luck. I will be replacing the fan next week and see how this one works.
Click to expand...
I have found that my woodstove pipe is 8", and the pellet is 6", in looking at reducers, I can't determine if the reducer is installed at the stove, or the ceiling, should both the 8', and the 6' inch ends of the reducer be female? I appreciate all the help I've found here, Stymied...by reducers....Seagull
 
were i to be doing it i'd prefer the increaser at the ceiling box. run the connector pipe in 6 inch up to the 8 inch flue and adapt there. this would keep more heat in the connector and probably help with draft somewhat.

as for ends, with any solid fueled appliance the male end is toward the stove
 
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stoveguy2esw said:
were i to be doing it i'd prefer the increaser at the ceiling box. run the connector pipe in 6 inch up to the 8 inch flue and adapt there. this would keep more heat in the connector and probably help with draft somewhat.

as for ends, with any solid fueled appliance the male end is toward the stove
Click to expand...
Thankyou Stoveguy, your advice is much appreciated.
 
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