Need help with Repair/New Chimney

[msheehan1]

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I currently have an cinder block external chimney that services a Russo Wood Stove. I am having renovations done to the house (full second floor). The chimney is old and last report in 2014 stated the the flue tiles were cracked. I would like to keep part of the chimney that goes through the wall (red brick and it looks nice). My ultimate goal would be cut off the chimney at the T portion and then mate it with stainless pipe, not sure if that is possible but I would like to try that. Other suggestions are welcomed.

 

[bholler]

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I currently have an cinder block external chimney that services a Russo Wood Stove. I am having renovations done to the house (full second floor). The chimney is old and last report in 2014 stated the the flue tiles were cracked. I would like to keep part of the chimney that goes through the wall (red brick and it looks nice). My ultimate goal would be cut off the chimney at the T portion and then mate it with stainless pipe, not sure if that is possible but I would like to try that. Other suggestions are welcomed.

The part through the wall is not right to do a wall passthrough out of all masonry you need 12" of solid masonry all the way around that crock. What you have could absolutely be fixed with a wall passthrough and a stainless liner. You just need to price out both ways and see which makes sense.

 

[msheehan1]

The part through the wall is not right to do a wall passthrough out of all masonry you need 12" of solid masonry all the way around that crock. What you have could absolutely be fixed with a wall passthrough and a stainless liner. You just need to price out both ways and see which makes sense.

The part through the wall is not right to do a wall passthrough out of all masonry you need 12" of solid masonry all the way around that crock. What you have could absolutely be fixed with a wall passthrough and a stainless liner. You just need to price out both ways and see which makes sense.

Would something like a supervent work, I could shave off the outside portion where the brick meets the cider block.

 

[bholler]

Would something like a supervent work, I could shave off the outside portion where the brick meets the cider block.

You still need to fix the wall passthrough if you are doing class a you should do it the whole way with the appropriate fittings like their wall passthrough kit.

 

[msheehan1]

You still need to fix the wall passthrough if you are doing class a you should do it the whole way with the appropriate fittings like their wall passthrough kit.

Thanks , Agree, since I live on an island getting help is not that easy so I am trying to do this myself. In your opinion would the passthrough kit fit through the current ceramic pipe (is it called a thimble, trying to get the lingo)? I really do not want to redo the brick, if possible.

Thanks for your help.

 

[begreen]

Look into liner installation in the existing chimney. The current thimble does not have enough clearance from combustibles (see the wood trim frame) It needs to be 12". If you open the wall there and find that there is 12" masonry to the nearest combustible (wall studs) and if the thimble inner diameter is > 6.25" then the tee snout from the liner tee will fit through the existing thimble and you will not need to convert to class A pipe. Otherwise you will need to install a proper pass through to the clay liner in the chimney. Then installing a liner will be straightforward.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/chimney-passing-a-chimney-through-the-wall.147754/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Chimney-Liner-Installation-Step-By-Step-Guide/

 

[bholler]

Thanks , Agree, since I live on an island getting help is not that easy so I am trying to do this myself. In your opinion would the passthrough kit fit through the current ceramic pipe (is it called a thimble, trying to get the lingo)? I really do not want to redo the brick, if possible.

Thanks for your help.

No it will not. You will need to remove the brick.

 

[bholler]

Look into liner installation in the existing chimney. If the thimble inner diameter is > 6.25" then the tee snout from the liner tee will fit through the existing thimble and you will not need to convert to class A pipe.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Chimney-Liner-Installation-Step-By-Step-Guide/

Yes but the existing wall passthrough is not sufficient. There is not enough masonry surrounding the crock.

 

[begreen]

Yes but the existing wall passthrough is not sufficient. There is not enough masonry surrounding the crock.

Correct. You jumped ahead of me, I was editing the post to add articles and more info

 

[bholler]

Correct. You jumped ahead of me, I was editing the post to add articles and more info

Ok sorry

 

[begreen]

Ok sorry

No problem, there's no way you would know that I was updating the post. I appreciate your keeping this info up to date.

 

[msheehan1]

No problem, there's no way you would know that I was updating the post. I appreciate your keeping this info up to date.

If it is 12" to the center of the crock, if so I do have that on all sides.

 

[begreen]

 

[Sodbuster]

As long as you are doing the upstairs renovation, it would make sense to do this now. If you are handy you can probably learn how to do it yourself. Do it once, and do it right.

 

[msheehan1]

As the cost and complexity keep mounting I might just switch to propane.

 

[msheehan1]

Since I slept on it. To use supervent I need to increase that opening to at least 8 inches. Or I could just have a new opening underneath the brick square. Would the draw of the stove change that much

 

[bholler]

Since I slept on it. To use supervent I need to increase that opening to at least 8 inches. Or I could just have a new opening underneath the brick square. Would the draw of the stove change that much

Just take the brick out and do a proper passthrough. Regardless of which way you do it you need a proper passthrough. That is the area where the majority of house fires start.

 

[msheehan1]

Just take the brick out and do a proper passthrough. Regardless of which way you do it you need a proper passthrough. That is the area where the majority of house fires start.

Why does the brick have to come out. I am at least 12 inches away from a stud.

 

[Bootstrap]

As the cost and complexity keep mounting I might just switch to propane.

If you think the costs are mounting now, just wait till you have to pay for propane....

I would line that chimney with an insulated liner and call it a day. Seems to be the by far easiest and probably cheapest route.

 

[begreen]

Why does the brick have to come out. I am at least 12 inches away from a stud.

12" from the edges of the thimble or from the center? It must be from the outer edges of the thimble.

Did you read the article in the link I posted? It goes over the requirements and options in details.

 

[bholler]

Why does the brick have to come out. I am at least 12 inches away from a stud.

Unless there is more brick that runs behind that wall you don't have 12" of masonry between the crock and combustible. I see one brick beside it which is only about 8".

 

[msheehan1]

Unless there is more brick that runs behind that wall you don't have 12" of masonry between the crock and combustible. I see one brick beside it which is only about 8".

The is at least 30in behind

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[begreen]

The is at least 30in behind

Behind doesn't matter. It's the distance from the edge of the crock to the nearest combustible which would be the studs in this case assuming that the picture frame and drywall are moved outward to the studs to meet the clearance requirement.

 

[msheehan1]

Behind doesn't matter. It's the distance from the edge of the crock to the nearest combustible which would be the studs in this case assuming that the picture frame and drywall are moved outward to the studs to meet the clearance requirement.

Thanks for all of your replies. I know what am going to do.

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[armanidog]

Was that an old fireplace and part of the chimney fell down? Is that why it has cinder block above the brick portion?