Need LP to NG conversion help. Please.

[torquen]

Hello, I bought a Majestic "FS42RP" free standing gas stove. This was from a private seller. Right now the stove is setup to run on LPG. The stove works great and looks great as well.

The problem is my home is setup for Natural Gas. I figured I could just convert it to NG but I'm having some difficulties.

I have called the Majestic sales reps and they don't feel like helping. The stove is no longer made and I cant find any manuals or any information on it. The serial number is T31B009821034.

The regulator is a SIT 820 Nova MV.
The cover plate on the stove shows 37,000 BTU. Main burner 55 DMS. Front burner 60/61 DMS.

If anyone out there has the conversion kit I need I will buy it. If any experts can tell me exactly what to do please let me know. I am extremely surprised at how difficult this has been. I figured changing a few orifices and I would be on my way.

If its easier to talk on the phone let me know and I will provide a number. Thank you very much for the help.

Garrett Morrison

 

[DAKSY]

Hello, I bought a Majestic "FS42RP" free standing gas stove. This was from a private seller. Right now the stove is setup to run on LPG. The stove works great and looks great as well.

The problem is my home is setup for Natural Gas. I figured I could just convert it to NG but I'm having some difficulties.

I have called the Majestic sales reps and they don't feel like helping. The stove is no longer made and I cant find any manuals or any information on it. The serial number is T31B009821034.

The regulator is a SIT 820 Nova MV.
The cover plate on the stove shows 37,000 BTU. Main burner 55 DMS. Front burner 60/61 DMS.

If anyone out there has the conversion kit I need I will buy it. If any experts can tell me exactly what to do please let me know. I am extremely surprised at how difficult this has been. I figured changing a few orifices and I would be on my way.

If its easier to talk on the phone let me know and I will provide a number. Thank you very much for the help.

Garrett Morrison

Normal gas conversion kits would include the pilot orifice, the burner orifice, the specified fuel regulator head, air shutter settings & conversion information stickers. Some might even require a burner tube/pan replacement.
I think you may be SOL, but maybe Dave Gault will chime in here. I'm thinkin the "P" designation at the end of the model # indicated that the fuel is propane, & therefore may NOT be able to be converted...

 

[Heatsource]

fs42rp was a field convertible unit.
just took regulator, pilot and main burner orifices. and an air fuel shutter adjustment of course.

kit is no longer avail from majestic, but a good local hearth shop should be able to scrounge the parts up for you,
good luck!
dave

 

[Fake coal burner]

Try woods man parts. All kinds sit gas valve parts.
(broken link removed)

 

[coaly]

It's not difficult, you may be asking the wrong question. The question is "how do I convert this appliance to Natural Gas"................

2 things needed to change to use the two gasses ; Oriface sized for BTU of burner, and regulator pressure. (Does the P in model number stand for Pilot?) Many have a "switch" type adjustment on gas valve for LP / NAT to control pilot oriface in valve for correct pilot instead of changing pilot oriface.
This is what A-1 Stoves refers to as "field convertable";
Convertable gas valves have what looks like a plug, that is a cap with threads on both sides. One side will have NAT, so when installed with nat. visable the spring goes up inside the cap to reduce regulator pressure. When LP is visable, the inside of the cap extends inside farther pressing more on the spring. This actually blocks the regulator open so the appliance gets system pressure from the low pressure regulator.

The differences in gasses are LP needs to be twice the pressure (about 1/2 psi) with an oriface half the size than for Natural. NG pressure is about 1/4 psi with oriface twice the size needed for LP.

SOME STATES REQUIRE CERTIFICATION TO CONVERT APPLIANCES
This is one of the reasons you're not getting answers. This is taught at gas company levels where it's done in the field. In rare cases, orifaces are peened shut and redrilled with the correct size oriface drill for the BTU required.
If you don't have the larger oriface for natural gas, I have a chart with oriface size (given in thousandths) to drill it out for BTU required. You can always make one from a LP oriface easily. Closing them up and redrilling from Nat to LP is more involved.

 

[torquen]

Thanks guys for the information so far. I'm at work right now but once I get home ill take another look at the regulator unit and see what the details are.

My dad has been helping with this project as well. He was able to get ahold of a tech at Vermont castings. He was extremely helpful and sent all of the instructions for this model as well as how to convert it. He had all the parts and was able to piece everything together that I would need. Once it come ill see if that kit will work.

Garrett

 

[DHill]

It's not difficult, you may be asking the wrong question. The question is "how do I convert this appliance to Natural Gas"................

2 things needed to change to use the two gasses ; Oriface sized for BTU of burner, and regulator pressure. (Does the P in model number stand for Pilot?) Many have a "switch" type adjustment on gas valve for LP / NAT to control pilot oriface in valve for correct pilot instead of changing pilot oriface.
This is what A-1 Stoves refers to as "field convertable";
Convertable gas valves have what looks like a plug, that is a cap with threads on both sides. One side will have NAT, so when installed with nat. visable the spring goes up inside the cap to reduce regulator pressure. When LP is visable, the inside of the cap extends inside farther pressing more on the spring. This actually blocks the regulator open so the appliance gets system pressure from the low pressure regulator.

The differences in gasses are LP needs to be twice the pressure (about 1/2 psi) with an oriface half the size than for Natural. NG pressure is about 1/4 psi with oriface twice the size needed for LP.

SOME STATES REQUIRE CERTIFICATION TO CONVERT APPLIANCES
This is one of the reasons you're not getting answers. This is taught at gas company levels where it's done in the field. In rare cases, orifaces are peened shut and redrilled with the correct size oriface drill for the BTU required.
If you don't have the larger oriface for natural gas, I have a chart with oriface size (given in thousandths) to drill it out for BTU required. You can always make one from a LP oriface easily. Closing them up and redrilling from Nat to LP is more involved.

This is really good to know information on LP/NAT conversions. Thank you for sharing it.

DH

 

[coaly]

I should add, not ALL gas burners are convertable. Some burners are made for either gas ONLY.

Kitchen ranges are done the same way. Regulator pressure is set, orifaces sized on all top burners, oven and broiler. Many orifaces on burner valves are adjustable by turning the oriface down on a needle that is part of the valve, and a screw on the oven thermostat with a pointer needs to be set at LP or Nat stamped on valve. This adjusts the oven pilot instead of changing pilot oriface. Top pilots and all air intakes require final adjustment. Newer ranges (and some freestanding heaters, dryers, furnaces and boilers) usually have a set of orifaces attached to the appliance. Different sizes for multiple burners may be color coded for the correct burner. Orifaces are usually stamped with a oriface size number. They are not a number drill or measurement, they are an oriface size number.
Always consult manufacturers instructions.
Laws require a conversion sticker applied to the appliance signed by the service person.
Gas suppliers used to assume liability for an entire system, (appliances were sold and installed by them) liability is now shared in most states with the service company or installer.

 

[Heatsource]

It's not difficult, you may be asking the wrong question. The question is "how do I convert this appliance to Natural Gas"................

2 things needed to change to use the two gasses ; Oriface sized for BTU of burner, and regulator pressure. (Does the P in model number stand for Pilot?) Many have a "switch" type adjustment on gas valve for LP / NAT to control pilot oriface in valve for correct pilot instead of changing pilot oriface.
This is what A-1 Stoves refers to as "field convertable";
Convertable gas valves have what looks like a plug, that is a cap with threads on both sides. One side will have NAT, so when installed with nat. visable the spring goes up inside the cap to reduce regulator pressure. When LP is visable, the inside of the cap extends inside farther pressing more on the spring. This actually blocks the regulator open so the appliance gets system pressure from the low pressure regulator.

The differences in gasses are LP needs to be twice the pressure (about 1/2 psi) with an oriface half the size than for Natural. NG pressure is about 1/4 psi with oriface twice the size needed for LP.

SOME STATES REQUIRE CERTIFICATION TO CONVERT APPLIANCES
This is one of the reasons you're not getting answers. This is taught at gas company levels where it's done in the field. In rare cases, orifaces are peened shut and redrilled with the correct size oriface drill for the BTU required.
If you don't have the larger oriface for natural gas, I have a chart with oriface size (given in thousandths) to drill it out for BTU required. You can always make one from a LP oriface easily. Closing them up and redrilling from Nat to LP is more involved.

No.
by field convertible, i mean it doesn't require a whole new burner assembly.
His regulator is the basic sit 820, he will need to remove the 3 torx 20 screws holding the regulator to the valve, and remove the gasket, spring and cup behind the regulator.
then the new "encapsulated" regulator goes on, with the 3 new longer torx 20 screws.

be sure to test the gasket for leaks, and follow the instructions that come w/the regulator.

ps, its much better to braise shut orifices for redlilling than to peen them shut

 

[coaly]

The mentality here is anything more than an adjustable wrench makes a propane man dangerous. That's why the old timers carried two. One to hold the oriface, and one to beat it shut.
Our trucks carried propane. Lots of it with UN 1075 placards. The vice on back bumper was not a good place to use a torch.

 

[Fake coal burner]

No.
by field convertible, i mean it doesn't require a whole new burner assembly.
His regulator is the basic sit 820, he will need to remove the 3 torx 20 screws holding the regulator to the valve, and remove the gasket, spring and cup behind the regulator.
then the new "encapsulated" regulator goes on, with the 3 new longer torx 20 screws.

be sure to test the gasket for leaks, and follow the instructions that come w/the regulator.

ps, its much better to braise shut orifices for redlilling than to peen them shut

I would like to see you braise shut this orifice shut and redrill it. Bras casing with ceramic inside nat gas. sit group my stove avitar .

 

[Heatsource]

I would like to see you braise shut this orifice shut and redrill it. Bras casing with ceramic inside nat gas. sit group my stove avitar .

yeah, there are some out there that cant be filled and drilled- or peened shut.
Majestic however never used such orifices