Need some opinions...Float Switch

[Eatonpcat]

Woke up this morning to the nasty sound of my foundation pump cycling on and off (nasty sound). Flipped the breaker off and went investigating. Found that the float switch was stuck between the wall of the well and the outlet pipe. Freed it up, filled the well with water and the pump kicked on but only threw out about half the water as usual. I then lifted the float switch manually and could hear the power to the switch, but the pump did not cylce and the switch would not turn itself off when it was released. I concluded the switch must have cooked itself and am going to replace it. Any other thoughts??

This is the well/pit.

This is the switch.

 

[begreen]

The float switch is easy to test with a continuity meter. If not the switch, maybe it could be the pump relay or pressure switch contacts?

 

[Eatonpcat]

The float switch is easy to test with a continuity meter. If not the switch, maybe it could be the pump relay or pressure switch contacts?

Thanks for the help!

 

[heat seeker]

The pump may not have a relay - it may use the switch contacts alone. As begreen said, check it with a meter. I don't think those switches are that expensive, so if you don't have a meter, you could get one. Worst case is you'd have a spare switch.

I don't know what you mean by "hearing power to the switch"…???

One place that I worked at had a lot of this type of switch, and replacing them was a common task.

 

[save$]

Try this electronic switch. No flot, works like a charm! http://www.washerwatcher.com/sump_controller.htm

 

[Eatonpcat]

The pump may not have a relay - it may use the switch contacts alone. As begreen said, check it with a meter. I don't think those switches are that expensive, so if you don't have a meter, you could get one. Worst case is you'd have a spare switch.

I don't know what you mean by "hearing power to the switch"…???

One place that I worked at had a lot of this type of switche, and replacing them was a common task.

Thanks...I'm sending wifey to pick up a new switch this morning, Figured the same thing (never hurts to have a spare).
Just hoping the pump isn't bad, It's around 3 grand to replace the pump. Would have to check the price on a rebuild, but the switch is what I am hoping is the problem. Replaced this once before.

Hearing power to the switch (lol), Not sure what I am saying either, justs sounds like it's trying to fire the pump!

 

[Eatonpcat]

Try this electronic switch. No flot, works like a charm! http://www.washerwatcher.com/sump_controller.htm

Looks like that's a little too small for my application, But thanks for the thought.

 

[Gary_602z]

Thanks...I'm sending wifey to pick up a new switch this morning, Figured the same thing (never hurts to have a spare).
Just hoping the pump isn't bad, It's around 3 grand to replace the pump. Would have to check the price on a rebuild, but the switch is what I am hoping is the problem. Replaced this once before.

Hearing power to the switch (lol), Not sure what I am saying either, justs sounds like it's trying to fire the pump!

Holy Smokes 3K for a pump? What kind is it?

Gary

 

[Eatonpcat]

Holy Smokes 3K for a pump? What kind is it?

Gary

Don't remember off the top of my head, But it is somewhere between a 3 to 5 HP cast iron sewage pump I believe. If the well is empty when my float switch comes in on Friday, I will list the specs. It's a beast...Not sure on the price, 3K was what we'll call an educated guess, I remeber that it was over 2K when I bought it in 1994. Even worse than the money, If it needs repaired or replaced, I have to yank it out of the pit. I would estimate the weight at around 150#, Pulled it out twice (I was younger and stronger) and don't want to do it again. Guy asked if I was trying to empty Lake Erie when I bought it.

 

[Eatonpcat]

The Beast is dead...New pump on order!

 

[DexterDay]

This is a.....

"DONT LIKE" post.... Sorry to hear.

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Would it be a good idea to let the float switch ride up and down in a perforated plastic pipe so it would not get stuck again where it did?

 

[heat seeker]

I think that kind of switch has to flop over sideways to work. It's not like a traditional type, it works by "falling over" when the level goes down. Or at least the ones I used to change worked like that.

 

[Eatonpcat]

Hello

Would it be a good idea to let the float switch ride up and down in a perforated plastic pipe so it would not get stuck again where it did?

Not sure I am visualizing what you are saying...Can you elaborate a little more? Thanks

 

[Eatonpcat]

I think that kind of switch has to flop over sideways to work. It's not like a traditional type, it works by "falling over" when the level goes down. Or at least the ones I used to change worked like that.

That sounds correct...As the water fills the well, the switch floats up and once it reaches a certain angle it fires the pump, As the water level decreases the float falls and turns off the pump!

 

[Don2222]

Not sure I am visualizing what you are saying...Can you elaborate a little more? Thanks

The float switch got stuck so if it was in a perforated pipe it would not get stuck and work better.

 

[heat seeker]

I see what you're saying - the pipe would have to be a large enough ID so the switch could flop over when the water level dropped.

 

[woodgeek]

Still not clear why that pump needs to be so large....how big is the discharge pipe? What is the GPH? Why does it need to be a sewage (rather than sump/effluent) pump?

I'm late to the party, and the OP has already ordered the new pump....but if the pump is actually over 1/2 HP, then it could be overloading the float switches...bad.

When I looked at pumps, I was surprised how little correlation there was between HP and GPH...

An alternative, more reliable and easier to repair would be two 1/2 HP pumps:

http://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/Zoeller-N98-Sump-Pump/p7589.html

For even more reliability, you could get these electronic switches:

http://www.LevelGuardProducts.com/sump/

and still be out less than a grand.

 

[Eatonpcat]

Still not clear why that pump needs to be so large....how big is the discharge pipe? What is the GPH? Why does it need to be a sewage (rather than sump/effluent) pump?

I'm late to the party, and the OP has already ordered the new pump....but if the pump is actually over 1/2 HP, then it could be overloading the float switches...bad.

When I looked at pumps, I was surprised how little correlation there was between HP and GPH...

An alternative, more reliable and easier to repair would be two 1/2 HP pumps:

http://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/Zoeller-N98-Sump-Pump/p7589.html

For even more reliability, you could get these electronic switches:

http://www.LevelGuardProducts.com/sump/

and still be out less than a grand.

Discharge pipe 3"....

375 gpm @ 10'

Sewage pump for it's ability to pass solids if need be!

Pump is not overloading the switches as it has been in operation since 1994 and the switch was only replaced once a couple years ago and of course this time, but it turns out the switch is not bad.

Alternative, also not a good solution. My interior sump pump is a 1HP Rigid and the pump I am replacing now is an exterior foundation pump.

Water, Water Everywhere!

Thanks for your help!

 

[Don2222]

I see what you're saying - the pipe would have to be a large enough ID so the switch could flop over when the water level dropped.

Yes, that is it and then it would not get hung up anymore!

 

[Eatonpcat]

Yes, that is it and then it would not get hung up anymore!

I will put some thought into your idea...Pump doesn't come in till Thursday

 

[woodgeek]

Cripes. >20,000 gallons per hour! Could drain a (big) swimming pool over lunch. Sounds like you got it covered.

I'm surprised that the 3" pipe is not limiting (dynamic head).

Tell me that you get weather events that it runs close to flat out.

 

[Eatonpcat]

Cripes. >20,000 gallons per hour! Could drain a (big) swimming pool over lunch. Sounds like you got it covered.

I'm surprised that the 3" pipe is not limiting (dynamic head).

Tell me that you get weather events that it runs close to flat out.

The exterior pump never and hopefully will never run flat out. There is an underground stream (so to say) that runs under my house and any rain event poses a problem. The interior is set up to do the majority of the work, and during a storm it will run wide open constantly. The big pump outside I have set to pump only when the interior pump is not keeping up.

My wife owned this property when I met her and she and I just loved the little stream that ran under the driveway, so we built the house. Here is a picture of the yard after a storm before we replaced the bridge over the little stream (LOL). The bridge started out as an 8'-0" Dia. tank without ends, I replaced that with (2)-10'-0" dia tanks side by side. Now I have A 25' wide by 7' high culvert pipe. Luckily I have/had connections and was able to get most of the labor/equipment for free.

 

[seige101]

With a pump that pricey i would look into having it rebuilt. A local motor company could rewind it for cheap compared to buying a new pump

 

[Eatonpcat]

With a pump that pricey i would look into having it rebuilt. A local motor company could rewind it for cheap compared to buying a new pump

That was my original thought also, that's why it's in the truck. The guy I took it to wanted nothing to do with it, He said parts are hard to find and expensive, so I figured I would just get a new one.

Thanks though that is a good idea.