Need Stove Advice For Our Yurt--Considering VC Encore 2550

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Nonprophet

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jan 27, 2009
516
Oregon
Hello!

New to the forums here and I've spent quite a bit of time reading through the archives--what a wonderful resource this site is for those of us who heat with wood! Many thanks in advance to all the knowledgeable people here who offer advice based on their own experiences....

We live in a 750 sq ft. Yurt outside Portland, Oregon. Relatively mild winters by some standards--daytime temps in the 30-40's nightime rarely below 20. We have other friends who live in yurts, the general guideline for getting a woodstove seems to be to look for one that's rated to heat 1,000-1,200 sq ft. or so as the yurts have high ceilings and only moderate insulation.

We've lived in our yurt for two winters now. For the first winter, we got a used Northland wood stove off of Craigslist for $100 with a bunch of 8" Selco double wall SS pipe. The stove had a crack in the top that we kept patched with stove patch, and it worked pretty well in that it put out a lot of heat, but it did go through wood pretty fast and it was hard to not have it get too hot in the yurt no matter how much we damped it down--though we did not add a flue damper until this fall.......

We got rid of that stove and picked up another used one this summer--a non-certified stove built by Sweet Home Stove Works here in Oregon. It works better in that it's much easier to burn at about 300-400 degrees once the yurt is heated, it seems to burn pretty clean (we're using very well seasoned white oak and madrone mixed with kiln dried 2x4 scraps from a local mill) as it doesn't produce a lot of smoke unless we really damp it down and the temp drops below 300. Still, it doesn't burn for more than 4-5 hours no matter how much wood we stuff in it, and thus mornings can be chilly. Also, it's not airtight--I can see the orange glow inside the stove through gaps in the two doors top and bottom flanges--this doesn't appear to be a flaw, just how the doors were designed. I'm no expert on woodstoves, but I have used quite a few over the years. By far the best one we had was a Vermont Castings airtight--we used it in a home in Boulder Colorado for many years and we really liked it. We'd light that thing in the fall and never need to relight it all winter--it always kept hot coals inside!!! I sold it in the early 90's when the certified stoves were coming out and they were saying that it would soon be illegal to sell the non-certified models.

Money is an issue for us in that we just can't go out a buy a new $1,500-$3,000 wood stove, and so we'd like to buy a quality, used woodstove preferably certified (but we live in a pretty remote area so legal compliance isn't as big an issue--though we do want to limit pollution and limit how much wood we use).

One of my friend's mother just bought a new house a few months back that has a VC Encore 2550 woodstove in it. She had to get the stove inspected by a local shop for the homeowners insurance (I thought that was interesting.......) Anyway, he told her that it's a VC "Defiant Encore" model 2550 made up until 1994 or so. I didn't write down the serial number, but it does say "model 2550" on it. She has no idea how old the stove is (can you find this out by the serial number???) or what if anything has been replaced on it. He told her that it needed considerable work inside to be "covered" by her homeowner's insurance. Long story short, he scared her into a buying a new pellet stove (which he happens to sell.......) so they want to know if I want to buy the old stove for $100. She was told that it would need a new upper and lower fireback, new sides, new hood, new andiron, new grate, and new catalyst--and then they quoted about $1,200 to do it.

I went over an looked at the stove yesterday. I can see that the lower fireback is slightly cracked on the top edge, but the side pieces look fine. She says the "hood" (the metal piece covering the refractory box) came off the last time she used the stove, but I was able to pick it up and put in back in with no problem. The grate is warped, but other than that it looks ok on the inside. I've been reading a lot of the posts here about the Encore, and it seems like internal parts, catalysts, and refractory boxes are pretty common maintenance items. When I was there looking at the stove I didn't know how to get to the catalyst or the refractory box, so I don't know their condition.

The outside is flawless--it looks like new. Comes with the two warming shelves, and mitten/boot holders, and all the knobs/levers, etc seem to work just fine. I'm pretty handy, so I don't mind doing the work on the Encore myself--especially if it will save us some money. We really like the glass doors, the top-load door, and the ash pan, plus the stove is just GORGEOUS!

So, after all that, my questions are: Would this be a good stove for us? Is it worth the $100 plus parts to fix it? Can we run it with the catalytic converter and keep the stove temp down to 500 degrees or so? VC rates the stove at 8,700-41,000 BTUs, and then says it's good t heat up to 1,900 sq ft. We missed out on a really nice Regency woodstove for sale last week on CL--an F1100. It's rated at 55,000 BTU, and is suggested for 600-1,200 sq ft--so why the difference in sq ft ratings between these two models?? Is the Encore going to blast us out of our yurt? Can we burn it at 300-400 degrees at night without damaging the catalyst or the stove and/or burning through a ton of wood?

We'd really like a quality, well-built stove that we can use for at least the next five years. We'd prefer glass doors and certified, and a stove that can at least have hot embers in the morning for ease of re-light, but not cook the yurt out all night at 80+ degrees.

Any advice, comments, or suggestions are GREATLY appreciated!!
 
For $100 I would buy it without hesitation. You can purchase a fireback kit for the 2550 from a VC dealer that will set you back around $500 that contains most of the parts you need. Probably the only other thing you will need is a catalytic converter, as I highly doubt the sides, andirons and grate need to be replaced unless it was seriously overfired. So for roughly $800 invested you have a stove that sells for $2000 new. Not a bad deal in my book.

VC started building the 2550 Defiant Encore in March of '95. There is a date code stamped on the back plate of the stove that will tell you exactly when it was made. If this stove has "Defiant Encore" on the sides it was built sometime between '95 and '97, as they changed the name in '97 from "Defiant Encore" to "Encore" to eliminate confusion with the new Defiant model.

I really like my Encore 2550, it has all the features I want in a stove. Being a cat model you will find that you go through slightly less wood than with a non-cat. You can really throttle a 2550 down and get some terrific burn times, I routinely get 10 hours out of mine. My $.02 - get the 2550, you'll be glad you did.
 
For 2 years, I lived in the Portland suburb of Beaverton and worked in Forest Grove, traveled to Zig Zag, Rhododendron, Gov't Camp, Mt Hood...and I had to google "Yurt"...hmmm, should pay more attention. The date code should be a 4 digit #. Mine is "3050" - which I figure to be the 305th day of 1990 (Nov 1, 1990). That code should be on the plate on backside. Shoot yeah, buy it.
 
We used an Encore Cat in a rental house for a year for primary heat and loved it. The thermostatic control made it easy to maintain a nice low burn if needed and there were always good coals left in the morning which we could quickly convert to a good flame with the addition of some wood. I always felt the thermostatic control kept us from overfiring the thing too. The ash handling system is the best I've seen also with a cover/handle that slides over the pan for removal. I'm considering buying another for our current house.
 
Thanks for the comments so far--much appreciated! Here's another question: which is going to be more efficient, burning our older, non-certified, non-airtight Sweet Home stove, or, burning the newer Encore without activating the catalyst???

Thanks!


NP
 
If you are planning to run the encore without the cat then don't waste your money buying it. Without the cat it is no better than an old smoke dragon, and efficiency goes out the window.

Why would you want to run without a cat?
 
Redhat is right. I think you can buy an aftermarket replacmenet cat for about $120 if that's the isue.
 
Having to invest that much money into fixing up an old used stove would make me think three times before buying it. I would think you could find a really nice used stove already in burning condition for $1000 or less.
 
Just wondered if you have considered the Jotul 602 cb (which might be a bit small) or the F3 cb? I have had a 606, which has the same size firebox,it packed a heck of a punch! Just a thought. Don't suppose your Yurt came from Colorado?
 
Ok, so we got the stove yesterday. Upon first glance, it seems to be in pretty good shape but needing some work--hopefully relatively minor as money is tight. The lower fireback is cracked. One of the andirons is broken. The gaskets all look like they could use replacing--I'll do the dollar test on the doors and ash door later today.

The lady we got the stove from told us that when she bought the house 6 months ago that the realtor said the catalyst in the stove had been replaced "recently." Is there any way to check/test the catalyzer?

At the risk of asking a totally stupid question, why do I need to replace the cracked lower fireback? I thought about flames damaging the refractory box, but then thought that well, it gets direct heat even to the exposed area even with a new lower fireback, and of course when the damper is closed the refractory box gets tons of heat/smoke......so what is the downside to running the stove with a cracked lower fireback? I thought about air leaks in the firebox, but there are two large gaps in the side panels where the door hinges are, so it doesn't look like the four pieces of the firebox (upper and lower firebacks and the two side panels) are meant to be an airtight assembly--am I missing something???

She also mentioned that at one point the throat hood had "fallen out" and they had put it back in and it had stayed since. What would cause the throat hood to fall out--the hood pins being warped, the upper fireback being warped, or both? I took the throat hood out and laid it on our deck using it as a straight-edge, and it IS curved/bowed somewhat (maybe 3/8" in the middle).......would that cause it fall out?



Thanks again for all the help--this site is an amazing resource!!!


NP
 
NP, if the hood, also called the "throat," is seriously warped from overfiring, then you will not be able to get it back in place. You ale=ready put it back in, so it should be fine.

You can get to the cat by knocking out the two wedges at the bottom of the lower fireback, the the fireback lifts up and out. You will be looking at the white refractory material. Lift off the top piece and you will see the cat. Take it out gingerly and inspect it in a strong light. There should be no cracks or fractures, nor any signs of flam damage. You can see pictures of these things on some of the refractory sites. I found the best links and how-tos to be on the Woodstock soapstone site (www.woodstoves.com), although the Fireview cat is much bigger than on the VC.

Anyway, brush fly ash off the converter, vacuum it out with a vacuum brush head attachment, then carefully replace back in the refractory. Assembly is in reverse order.

The lower fireback won't go back in if it has been warped by overfiring, but it probably would not have come out without a lot of force, anyway. Make sure all the ash is out of the groove at the bottom or it won't fit well. There is no gasket for the fireback.

Good luck!


herbert
 
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