need sugestions on how to reinstall insert after losing masonry fireplace and chimney to constructio

[Harvey]

I bought a Hampton HI300 three years ago for my lakefront cabin in upstate NY. A great insert that puts out some serious heat. I am getting married and she doesn't like 'camping' so now I am in the process of converting the cabin to a legitimate year round house.

Step 1 was hiring a contractor to jack the cabin up 8 feet, get rid of the sono-tubes and install a full walkout basement. The only problem was the fireplace and chimney were in a position that could not be left in place and had to be torn down.

I now have a great Hampton HI300 with no fireplace to install it in. I want to use it in my new basement rec room (poured concrete floor and side walls, 2x6 framed lakeside wall). Is there a way to build a stone enclosure for the stove and use an insulated pipe as a chimney? This pipe would run through the floor and up and out the roof with the pipe from a new frestanding wood stove I am going to install where the old fireplace was.

I guess there are 3 questions:

1. Do I need to build a complete 'to code' masonry fireplace with a chinmey?

2. Can I use a insulated pipe with an insert instead of a chimney?

3. Would a stone enclosure be sufficient or do I need a firebox to insert the stove in?

Thanks for the Help!

 

[jtp10181]

All wood inserts I have seen (Quadrafire) need to be installed into a previously functioning and code wood fireplace.

Maybe you could sell that unit used and get a new built in ZC EPA approved wood unit.

 

[BrotherBart]

Build a fireplace around that sucker.

 

[elkimmeg]

The premise of an insert is to be installed in a fireplace a non combustible enclosure .You already have two elements of that in place, the concrete floor and the foundation wall. Now if you were to build a fake fireplace enclosure to insert the insert you will qualify the requirements of that installation. The chimney would have to be class A going threw the top of the fire place but could be a single wall connector pipe in the space above the stove to the beginning of the masonry. From that point above a class A chimney, would be required probably 6" interior. going threw walls or floor above you need to use the chimney manufactures specs for the approved floor boot and will need to enclose that chimney within a chase in the living space

 

[littlesmokey]

The premise of an insert is to be installed ina fireplace a non combustiable enclosure .You already heve two ellements of that in place, the concrete floor and the foundation wall. Now if you were to build a fake fireplace enclosure to insert the insert you will qualify the requirements of that installation. The chimney would have to be class A going threw the top of the fire place but could be a single wall connector pipe in the space above the stove to the begining of the masonry. From that point above a class A chimney, would be required probably 6" interior. going threw walls or floor above you need to use the chimney manufactures specs for the approved floor boot and will need to enclose that chimney withina chace in the living space

Where I am they call those dog houses. The box meets all the requirements for distance from combustibles and R-value. The important part is the chimney. What comes out of the box. Spend a few extra bucks and exceed the code to protect your new home/old cabin. Best of luck with the coming event.

 

[Shane]

Build a coded masonry firebox then run Duratech chimney. Check out the Simpson Duravent site it has a diagram in their literature that shows such a scenario.

 

[Todd]

Can't he just weld some legs on it and build a hearth?

 

[stoveguy13]

Trade it in for a freestanding stove would be best bet. and put in a class A chimney

 

[Gooserider]

Can't he just weld some legs on it and build a hearth?

Functionally that might work Todd, but from a Code stanpoint it would absolutely NOT work! The unit was tested and certified for clearances, etc. based on the idea of enclosing the unit in an existing fireplace. Take it out of that enclosure, and you have no data as to what would be required for a safe installation. In addition, an insert usually has a double shell around it to get convection heat out, while a free standing stove is designed to be a radiant heater, this is going to possibly cause function problems, and certainly is likely to look ugly since the insert box was designed to be hidden inside the firebox.

Gooserider

 

[Highbeam]

I have a perfectly functional insert sitting in my garage to be sold on craigslist for the same reason. Fireplace and chimney had structurally failed and was removed and so was the insert. I took this oppurtunity to go for a freestanding. I am mudding and taping the sheetrock today. We never really liked listening to that blower and the masonry structure burned up a lot of floorspace. The structural failure was the turning point.

 

[Todd]

Can't he just weld some legs on it and build a hearth?

Functionally that might work Todd, but from a Code stanpoint it would absolutely NOT work! The unit was tested and certified for clearances, etc. based on the idea of enclosing the unit in an existing fireplace. Take it out of that enclosure, and you have no data as to what would be required for a safe installation. In addition, an insert usually has a double shell around it to get convection heat out, while a free standing stove is designed to be a radiant heater, this is going to possibly cause function problems, and certainly is likely to look ugly since the insert box was designed to be hidden inside the firebox.

Gooserider

I'm not familiar with the Hampton stoves, but some others such as Buck, Lopi Answer, and others can be used either as inserts or add on legs for freestanding.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Can't he just weld some legs on it and build a hearth?

Functionally that might work Todd, but from a Code stanpoint it would absolutely NOT work! The unit was tested and certified for clearances, etc. based on the idea of enclosing the unit in an existing fireplace. Take it out of that enclosure, and you have no data as to what would be required for a safe installation. In addition, an insert usually has a double shell around it to get convection heat out, while a free standing stove is designed to be a radiant heater, this is going to possibly cause function problems, and certainly is likely to look ugly since the insert box was designed to be hidden inside the firebox.

Gooserider

I'm not familiar with the Hampton stoves, but some others such as Buck, Lopi Answer, and others can be used either as inserts or add on legs for freestanding.

if the stove was tested to be used in a freestanding manner (with legs or a pedistal base made by the manufacturer and tested with the unit) the unit can be retro-fitted with these attachments and used in such a manner. if this is not the case , not only is it illegal to be done by code, but this will invalidate the ul listing of the unit by modifying the unit with legs or a base first step is to check with your dealer or even better the factory (dealer my not know if the retro kit is available and you want to be CERTAIN of this before proceeding. i like the doghouse approach better, its code compliant and would allow you to keep the insert in its intended form so it would look much better. hope this helps