I'm picking up this stove in a couple days, I believe it's an Alpiner Matterhorn which I think is the equivalent to the Fisher Papa Bear if I'm not mistaken. I have a friend that has the smaller Alpiner and he has a door gasket on it. I also have a Grandma Bear which is designed to not use the door gasket. Does anyone know if the Alpiner requires a gasket? There is still a shortage of information about the Alpiners so for now I am looking at it like its a Papa. I also have an Englander 30 as my primary stove and the Grandma was a project I found for free that I found to be warped and had cracks, I ended up fixing the cracks and using it for a while and came to the conclusion that it needed a door gasket and hinge pins to function properly so I told a co worker he could have it but I liked the idea of having a backup stove incase the englanders glass broke or something catastrophic like that happened hance the Apiner project. Any tips on these things would be appreciated.
New Alpiner Matterhorn
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The 3 piece top versions I've seen have had gasket attached to door.
There could be door variations and changes through production, so you would need to look at the door seal (channel iron on stove front) to see how it seals to door.
Fisher has 3 contact points, the edges of channel iron contact back of door, and the cast door has a raised portion in the center of channel iron that makes contact in the center of the web. If you don't have a door that makes contact in those areas, try a piece of cardboard in the channel to see if there is room for a gasket. There is either no clearance and a gasket prevents closing, or clearance (a space) for gasket material.
The few I've seen used flat gasket. If it wasn't required, you would probably find ads boasting no gasket to replace being advertised. Ads are in archived newspapers.
If yours has the short legs as shown above, it was for use on non-combustible hearth or cement only. They were built short to fit under mantels. Closer to a All-Nighter copy than Fisher. All-Nighter used an asbestos pad under the bottom bricks for UL approval when using floor protection.
For new installations, your state is under the International Mechanical Code, which requires all appliances to be listed to UL testing specifications.
There could be door variations and changes through production, so you would need to look at the door seal (channel iron on stove front) to see how it seals to door.
Fisher has 3 contact points, the edges of channel iron contact back of door, and the cast door has a raised portion in the center of channel iron that makes contact in the center of the web. If you don't have a door that makes contact in those areas, try a piece of cardboard in the channel to see if there is room for a gasket. There is either no clearance and a gasket prevents closing, or clearance (a space) for gasket material.
The few I've seen used flat gasket. If it wasn't required, you would probably find ads boasting no gasket to replace being advertised. Ads are in archived newspapers.
If yours has the short legs as shown above, it was for use on non-combustible hearth or cement only. They were built short to fit under mantels. Closer to a All-Nighter copy than Fisher. All-Nighter used an asbestos pad under the bottom bricks for UL approval when using floor protection.
For new installations, your state is under the International Mechanical Code, which requires all appliances to be listed to UL testing specifications.
If there is room for gasket i would put it on. We have put gasket on many fishers that didnt origonally use it because due to wear the doors were to loose without it.
So I looked at the stove and it's in good shape but it's in a basement and needs to be brought up a half flight of finished hardwood stairs. I don't know exactly how to move it without guaranteeing I wouldn't damage anything in the process. It's just a half flight of stairs that's the problem. Anyone in NH have one of those stair climbing Dollies for heavy appliances?
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