New Blaze King Sirocco 20.2

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Riverbilly

New Member
Dec 2, 2020
13
Sheridan, IL
Good morning gents and gals, this being my first post a friendly hello is warranted. I just dropped the hammer on a Sirocco 20.2 cat stove and of course I have a slew of questions that drew to the forum. I will try to keep it simple and limited as I'm sure future questions will arise the further I get along into my project.

I am installing this stove in my dining room and in the future within a few years will reinstall it into the addition we plan on building. So I would like to install it where it is not leaving in impression of a stove being there after it is removed. I am laying down cement board through out the whole floor and will follow it with ceramic tile with no distinguishable hearth.

My question is this, given the clearances from Blaze King, what are some material recommendations for the (8ft) wall on the backside of the stove. Do I need an airspace? Is drywall unsuitable given the clearances? Also the same questions for the ceiling?

Thanks
 
Drywall is fine but is considered a combustible material. In the manual they will give clearances to combustibles. My Princess ultra with the side shields, at a 45* angle in a corner is 8" I believe to a combustible. I am close to the given clearances (a few inches extra) and haven't had a wall temperature over 130* on an IR gun with the stove at full throttle. Just remember the clearances are for worst case situations. Outside of drywall, you could tile, use metal sheet, brick face...all kinds of options.
 
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Good morning gents and gals, this being my first post a friendly hello is warranted. I just dropped the hammer on a Sirocco 20.2 cat stove and of course I have a slew of questions that drew to the forum. I will try to keep it simple and limited as I'm sure future questions will arise the further I get along into my project.

I am installing this stove in my dining room and in the future within a few years will reinstall it into the addition we plan on building. So I would like to install it where it is not leaving in impression of a stove being there after it is removed. I am laying down cement board through out the whole floor and will follow it with ceramic tile with no distinguishable hearth.

My question is this, given the clearances from Blaze King, what are some material recommendations for the (8ft) wall on the backside of the stove. Do I need an airspace? Is drywall unsuitable given the clearances? Also the same questions for the ceiling?

Thanks

Meet or exceed all the required stove and pipe clearance dimensions and your good. Welcome to Hearth and if you have a stove question fire away. I have the same stove.
 
You dont want to cheat this stove close to the wall, since its T-stat control you want air to properly cool the calibrated t-stat so it functions as designed, certain material such as masonry or install the stove with reduced clearances can cause issues with operation. Remember to use double wall dvl, avoid any 90's try using (2) 45's if you going out the wall, order the adapter to sit on the flue collar. telescoping dvl is the best / easiest to install when install black pipe
 
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Behind my stove is painted drywall exactly at the minimum clearance to combustibles as listed in the manual and on the stove tag. That's all you need to do. The hearth just needs to offer ember protection so grouted tile is fine. The stove must sit as far away from the painted sheetrock as the manual requires, that's it. There is no requirement at all for anything fancy on the wall like metal or brick or whatever. Just meet or exceed the minimum required distance.

People get way too worked up about wall shields and air spaces, thinking it's a requirement.

Though the painted sheetrock is totally safe, it could be bare plywood, the wife and I have been planning on a decorative stone/slate facing of some sort and maybe even a mantle shelf thing. Just for looks.
 
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You asked about the ceiling. There is a minimum distance requirement from stove to ceiling in my princess manual. I barely meet this requirement as well. The ceiling is just painted sheetrock.
 
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Thanks for the many great replies....I called Blaze King and they assured me that I would be fine with my current scenario. The tech also noted not to cheat the clearances because of the way the bi-metal t-stat works as someone stated earlier in the comments
 
How are your burn times?

From 12 to 20 depending on the weather, fuel, and convenience. To get the nice long burns I burn the coals down as far as possible on each load so there is room for as much fuel as possible. Your weather should average close to mine I am guessing unless you are right in town which would make it even more forgiving.
 
From 12 to 20 depending on the weather, fuel, and convenience. To get the nice long burns I burn the coals down as far as possible on each load so there is room for as much fuel as possible. Your weather should average close to mine I am guessing unless you are right in town which would make it even more forgiving.
That's outstanding enough for me, I will be burning mostly ash and oak with some apple here and there.

If I'm understanding this right I will be using dvl telescoping up to the chimney support box and class A through the attic and out the roof. It's a straight shot flue from the stove up. If I build it at 16 ft, there will be 12ft of it within the attic and living space while 4ft will be outside. Does this sound like a good scenario?
 
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Sound good. Be sure to honor the 10-3-2 rule for the outdoor portion.
[Hearth.com] New Blaze King Sirocco 20.2
 
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As others said follow the manual and meet or exceed. To each their own on what they want to do/how to do that etc. here’s ours, no air gap, just veneer on the wall, hearth is 2x6 with hardiebacker and tile. Ashford 30.2
[Hearth.com] New Blaze King Sirocco 20.2
 
Always get the insulation packed class A, not the cheap cheesy air cooled triple wall. Get 6” to match the appliance.
 
Yes, you want a good, solid packed chimney. Are you looking at DuraPlus for comparison? That is still a solid-packed, but of economy quality with the additional air jacket. Their DuraTech chimney is a better product.
 
Yes, you want a good, solid packed chimney. Are you looking at DuraPlus for comparison? That is still a solid-packed, but of economy quality with the additional air jacket. Their DuraTech chimney is a better product.
I've looked at many but without the knowledge I've been acquiring here my head was starting to spin....The price is very high but I honestly do not want to do this twice. I'm thinking an optimum drafting system will reflect and pay off in the long run
 
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That's outstanding enough for me, I will be burning mostly ash and oak with some apple here and there.

If I'm understanding this right I will be using dvl telescoping up to the chimney support box and class A through the attic and out the roof. It's a straight shot flue from the stove up. If I build it at 16 ft, there will be 12ft of it within the attic and living space while 4ft will be outside. Does this sound like a good scenario?
Sounds perfect. I have the exact venting setup minus one foot overall. Look into purchasing a Sooteater cleaning system while you re accumulating everything. With your slip joint you can sweep from indoors easily.

@14 hrs right now. Considering a reload. Is this a DIY install by chance?
 
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I've looked at many but without the knowledge I've been acquiring here my head was starting to spin....The price is very high but I honestly do not want to do this twice. I'm thinking an optimum drafting system will reflect and pay off in the long run
Chimney pipe is not cheap. Many companies make 2 lines for this reason, economy and premium. Go with premium pipe, this is infrastructure and you want it to last a long time. DuraTech, ICC Excel, Champion (Ventis), Selkirk UltraTemp are good quality chimney pipes. Check woodstovepros.com for decent pricing if you are having trouble locating a good local source.
 
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Sounds perfect. I have the exact venting setup minus one foot overall. Look into purchasing a Sooteater cleaning system while you re accumulating everything. With your slip joint you can sweep from indoors easily.

@14 hrs right now. Considering a reload. Is this a DIY install by chance?
Yes it is, my father a 50 year carpenter and brother who is a carpenter as well will be helping. I'm the black sheep welder of the family The reason I want to plain Jane the installation is because this will not be the permanent home for the stove and eventually will make its home in the addition a few years to come. Whats nice is the addition will be the same pitched gable and I plan on putting the stove in the same position it is located now, gable wise
 
Yes it is, my father a 50 year carpenter and brother who is a carpenter as well will be helping. I'm the black sheep welder of the family The reason I want to plain Jane the installation is because this will not be the permanent home for the stove and eventually will make its home in the addition a few years to come. Whats nice is the addition will be the same pitched gable and I plan on putting the stove in the same position it is located now, gable wise
Check your PM shortly