new build need help

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gordko

New Member
Aug 2, 2016
8
saskatchewan, canada
64"accross, 36 high firebox
10 " x 64" exhaust


Does it make any sense to have a smoke shelf

Question been trying with two ways of doing chimney.

Can it work

Straight up 64x10" straight up 12 feet

Or

Taper up from sides to 8" x 30". Up 10 feet

Would like to make insulated cement perlite to coat the sides of the chimney
Any suggestions. Pics enclosed
 

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Last edited:
64"accross, 36 high firebox
10 " a throat x 64"

Question been trying with two ways of doing chimney.

Can it work

Straight up 64x10" straight up 12 feet

Or

Taper up from sides to 8" x 30". Up 10 feet

Would like to make insulated cement perlite to coat the sides of the chimney
Any suggestions. Pics enclosed


Either way will work fine straight up will be a little better as far as weather resistance because you wont have the shoulders to deal with but stepped in looks better in my opinion and uses allot less brick. as far as "coating the flue with cement mix you will need to fill the cavity no cement mix will stick to that. And by the way is all of that stainless?
 
Either way will work fine straight up will be a little better as far as weather resistance because you wont have the shoulders to deal with but stepped in looks better in my opinion and uses allot less brick. as far as "coating the flue with cement mix you will need to fill the cavity no cement mix will stick to that. And by the way is all of that stainless?
1/16 mild steel
 
Did you let that mortar cure before you fired it up?
 
Chimney what if I cover it with insulated cement from top to bottom say 4" thick on the outside
Then either the cement will crack and fall off when the metal expands or the metal will buckle and fail because it cant expand. You cannot just cover a metal flue with a layer of insulating cement the insulation needs to allow for the metal to move.

And yes let the cement on the fire brick cured with gradual small short fires
Yes but how long was it before the first fire and what mortar did you use?
 
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I am not trying to rain on your parade at all I am just trying to keep you from putting allot of work into something that will fail in a short time. I have been doing this a long time and a smoke chamber and flue made of 1/16" mild steel will not last long at all. The byproducts of burning wood are pretty corrosive that is why we line chimneys with stainless not mild steel.
 
I have never heard of that mortar but it apparently is a refractory mortar. so it should work as long as you have the right thickness mortar joints and it cured properly. But laying the brick "shiner" or on edge is not nearly as durable as laying them the other way.
 
Looks like we are going to try to pour our own liner, have you any recommendations d
Out of what material using what as a form? Why not just build a chimney with a regular liner in it that has been tested and proven to hold up.
 
out of what material using what as a form. Poured liners are very tricky the mix has to be perfect or they deteriorate quickly. That is why they are rarley used anymore.
 
Open to suggestions never did one, but plywood with a plastic sheet inside to remove easier,
The only ones I have ever seen were with inflatable bladders. How would you remove a plywood form from the inside of a chimney after it is poured?. I am curious why you would not just use a traditional liner system like clay or stainless. There is a reason they are used normally.
 
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