Can you detail the problem?It will hopefully address the biggest flaw with the stove IMO.
Can you detail the problem?
Mines the same, one of the hearth members, probably an engineer rigged something similar where he had a lot more control. I think he posted a couple years back.Currently the damper adjustability is not good. You see very little reduction in airflow until nearly completely closed down. With my setup just cracking it a little will result in too much airflow. So for me currently the stove basically has full power or fully shut down.
I'm glad to see the improvement, but a little surprised it's allowed as a retrofit on older stoves without redoing EPA testing.
Heck, even the Ks/Palladian is kinda like that; Under a setting of 1.25, small movements have a big effect.I have to admit adjusting the original air lever is tricky. Its very sensitive the last 1/2" of travel before fully closed.
My morso is like that, but oddly with a round threaded draft cap. There are five full turns to close and turns 1-4 don't make huge changes and usually I close it 25% (1.25 turns) at a time when starting from cold. The last turn, 20% of the draft cap movement, makes a huge difference and can only close it all the way when burning bio bricks. Even the driest load of seasoned hard maple cant have the cap totally closed, just down to about 10%, but I run it at 20% for softwoods on a full load, 25-50% when burning less than a full load. Stoves are weird and this is a long and boring post.Heck, even the Ks/Palladian is kinda like that; Under a setting of 1.25, small movements have a big effect.
I guess it's just the nature of air control mechanisms, kind of an exponential curve; If you go from (in my case) 4 to 3, the available draft can still pull a lot of air through since you haven't cut the size of the opening all that much. When you have the air almost closed, a similar movement of the lever cuts a much large percentage of the remaining air.My morso is like that, but oddly with a round threaded draft cap. There are five full turns to close and turns 1-4 don't make huge changes and usually I close it 25% (1.25 turns) at a time when starting from cold. The last turn, 20% of the draft cap movement, makes a huge difference and can only close it all the way when burning bio bricks. Even the driest load of seasoned hard maple cant have the cap totally closed, just down to about 10%, but I run it at 20% for softwoods on a full load, 25-50% when burning less than a full load. Stoves are weird and this is a long and boring post.
I guess it's just the nature of air control mechanisms, kind of an exponential curve; If you go from (in my case) 4 to 3, the available draft can still pull a lot of air through since you haven't cut the size of the opening all that much. When you have the air almost closed, a similar movement of the lever cuts a much large percentage of the remaining air.
Interesting air settings you have for the different woods. I'd think you'd have to give it less air for softwoods, as they tend to burn faster..
It seems in my case to be less energy density so more air needed for a air/fuel ratio. Stoves all have their quirks. I thought for a while my cookstove air control was useless until I realized how it likes to burn. Now I have total control.I guess it's just the nature of air control mechanisms, kind of an exponential curve; If you go from (in my case) 4 to 3, the available draft can still pull a lot of air through since you haven't cut the size of the opening all that much. When you have the air almost closed, a similar movement of the lever cuts a much large percentage of the remaining air.
Interesting air settings you have for the different woods. I'd think you'd have to give it less air for softwoods, as they tend to burn faster..
FYI, I spoke with Woodstock Soapstone Company today. They are waiting on approval from the EPA before shipping the new air control. It will probably take another two-weeks before approved.
The thermo idea is a great one and for the money of WS stoves should include them. I think it would increase everything on their stoves, efficiency, emissions, etc., and I personally believe it would have to increase burn times to rival that of other stoves, not that WS doesn’t already underwhelm their customers. (Compliment)The only better mechanism (assuming an optimized slide plate) is a thermostatically controlled damper like blaze kings.
Nothing yet on pricing. I can't imagine that it would be that expensive. Maybe $100? Not sure....Any word on pricing? My original air control is too loose when the stove is cold (will actually shut itself due to gravity on the lever and then gets too tight when the stove is hot) and as others noted is too touchy near the closed position.
FYI, I spoke with Woodstock Soapstone Company today. They are waiting on approval from the EPA before shipping the new air control. It will probably take another two-weeks before approved.
I've called Woodstock two or three times about the retrofit and asked each time to be put on the list for one (if there is one). I've heard nothing so far. I really would like it for this heating season as the original control is a bit problematic on my stove.Hey everyone, long time no see. We’re coming up on 2 years with our PH. The only change I’d like is the damper discussed above. Has anyone made the retrofit? Otherwise, what a great stove. Our primary heat has been out for 2 weeks and we’ve been solely relying on the PH for our heat with a 24/7 burn during that time. Got 2’ snow for our first October storm. Seems like it’s going to be a big winter. Soooooo glad we bought it.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.