New Dutchwest stove question

[drobbins]

Hi Folks,

Just got a new Dutchwest 2461 and I'm preparing for first firing.
In reading about the stove I see references to a refractory package that appears to sit above the catalytic converter. My stove has no such device despite it being shown in the exploded view in the manual. A friend has a similar but older stove (different model) and his stove doesn't have this either. Is my stove missing a part or do I not know what I'm looking at?
Anybody familiar with newer versions of this stove?

Thanks,
Dave

 

[English BoB]

It looks to me like since 7/97 the refractory is discontinued. Look at item 60 in the parts list.

bob

 

[drobbins]

ok, you're right, I can't read
One more question while I gotcha here
The hole in the top of the stove where the thermostat goes looks to have a 3/8" fine thread in it.
The thermostat itself has a bushing in sits in that has an OD of 1/4"
why is the hole threaded?
pic attached

 

[English BoB]

There was a plug in the hole in case you didnt use the probe thermometer, without the plug you would have an extra air source right by the cat which would make the temps at the cat increase and cause damage over time.
You remove the plug and insert the temp probe in its place, the probe should end up a 1/4 " away from the cat for best results.
Hope this helps.

bob

 

[drobbins]

thanks, this place is a wonderful source of info

Dave

 

[twd000]

I have the older version of that Dutchwest stove. I removed the temperature probe because it was too long and the previous owner had pierced a large hole in the refractory cover with the probe. I had been using the hole to aim my IR gun for measuring catalyst temperature (or close to it). I don't recall if that hole is threaded on my stove; I'll check tonight. In the meantime, my questions are: 1. do I need to plug this hole to prevent damage to the catalyst from air leaks? 2. How do I plug this hole if it's not threaded? 3. How can I measure catalyst temperature without a probe? Can I just aim my IR gun at the stove top near the hole and say "close enough"?

 

[Woody Stover]

I have the older version of that Dutchwest stove. I removed the temperature probe because it was too long and the previous owner had pierced a large hole in the refractory cover with the probe.

That is the way it's supposed to be. The probe tip has to be 1/4-1/2" from the surface of the cat to get a good reading. I'm using a 2" Condar probe on mine right now. It gets pretty close to the cat, and it will run about 1600° max. The dial is also 2" across so it's a tight fit in the cut-out; I have to turn the dial when the stove is cold at startup so that the indicator doesn't hit. Once the probe warms up, the spring pulls in a bit.

 

[twd000]

That is the way it's supposed to be. The probe tip has to be 1/4-1/2" from the surface of the cat to get a good reading. I'm using a 2" Condar probe on mine right now. It gets pretty close to the cat, and it will run about 1600° max. The dial is also 2" across so it's a tight fit in the cut-out; I have to turn the dial when the stove is cold at startup so that the indicator doesn't hit. Once the probe warms up, the spring pulls in a bit.

Well that's news to me. If that's the case, then the 1/8" hole in the refractory had become a 1/2" hole by the time I inherited the stove. Which would allow super-hot gas to hit the stove top instead of going out the flue? There is a large gray section of cast iron right between the catalyst and stove pipe which says "overheated" to me. The purpose of the refractory cover is to protect the inner top of the stove from overheating, no? Doesn't punching a hole though it negate its purpose?

 

[Woody Stover]

the 1/8" hole in the refractory had become a 1/2" hole by the time I inherited the stove. Which would allow super-hot gas to hit the stove top instead of going out the flue? There is a large gray section of cast iron right between the catalyst and stove pipe which says "overheated" to me. The purpose of the refractory cover is to protect the inner top of the stove from overheating, no? Doesn't punching a hole though it negate its purpose?

Yeah, that probe hole in the refractory shouldn't be 1/2" but I don't think it would be much of a problem. By the time you close the bypass and the cat starts glowing, you have the air cut pretty low and I wouldn't think there's much 'super-hot gas' going through the hole; Probably will follow the path of least resistance, straight back toward the flue exit. Once that heat gets past the refractory, it heats the area you are talking about, toward the back of the stove top. That's where I have a surface thermo and it will hit 700 there. Unobstructed direct radiation will heat the baffle, below the cat, and it will glow if you have the air open and there are flames hitting the baffle as well. If I had the air open a good bit, I could probably exceed 700 behind the refractory and push the stove into over-fire territory. Maybe that happened to the previous owner, resulting in the gray area. Is the gray in the thick raised area or the thinner area behind it? I am getting my stove top temp on the back of the thick section. Not sure, but I think this area is still protected by the back of the refractory. Not sure if the area behind there gets a little hotter yet but I have never seen it glowing. I could test it with the IR thermo...

 

[webby3650]

ok, you're right, I can't read
One more question while I gotcha here
The hole in the top of the stove where the thermostat goes looks to have a 3/8" fine thread in it.
The thermostat itself has a bushing in sits in that has an OD of 1/4"
why is the hole threaded?
pic attached

Your stove will still have the refractory box around the catalyst. This has never been discontinued. You should be able to see it through the cat probe hole. When the stove is new, you have to use a drill bit to open a hole for the probe. I can't see it in the picture, you better check it out..