new fahrenheit furnace owner

[ivanhoe]

now the work begins. a thorough cleaning will be in the cards. will put away for a warmer day to get at it. a pic to confirm it did happen. there will be questions posted in the near future(dexter & amc343). it's a manual lighting model #2248.

 

[343amc]

Congrats and welcome to the furnace family. Hope it works out well for you.

Handy hint while its not in your house - clean the heck out of it. I'd blown mine out with the air compressor, but didn't get behind the "back wall" where all the real crud was. I wish I'd hit that area with the compressor before I brought it into the house.

 

[jtakeman]

Nice, Can't wait to see it installed and burning. Mostly what you think of it and how it heats for you. Seem to be getting popular around here!

Keep us posted.

 

[DexterDay]

Yep. I'm with amc, hit it with an air compressor. Remove all the small plates on the body of the stove. Thee is a small clean out on the left and combustion blower on the right.

Also, make sure inner hopper gasket is good, due to the weight of the hopper, they tend to sag inside. You need to remove the sides and top of unit (strip it) but its worth it, to do it now. Than to realise you have an air leak inside the hopper

Also, the ash pan gasket, rarely is good enough to pass the dollar bill test. I added another flat gasket, over the factory one. Increasing its thickness by 2. Much tighter now. Also, door gaske needs checked.

Clean and lube the shafts of the 2 actuators that clean the pot in the back of the stove.

And the pot, I would close up a few high holes. A couple rows on the front and back of pot (pusher and front door) and I did the 4 high holes n the sides (your pot may be different, based on age).

There are some updates if you wanna drop a dime or two. The sail switch may not be on yours? Look inside the intake, if it has a metal flapper, then push on it with a screwdriver? If it hinges from the top? It's the old one and only opens 50% when running, because gravity wants to close it. The new switch is hinged on the side and opens 100% when running. Also a new High flow manifold was introduced, and it helped tremendously with my burn, coupled with the new high flow sail switch, all new gaskets and a few select holes, filled with cement.

Congrats.... This isn't Earl's? This is the other one?

 

[ivanhoe]

Yep. I'm with amc, hit it with an air compressor. Remove all the small plates on the body of the stove. Thee is a small clean out on the left and combustion blower on the right.

Also, make sure inner hopper gasket is good, due to the weight of the hopper, they tend to sag inside. You need to remove the sides and top of unit (strip it) but its worth it, to do it now. Than to realise you have an air leak inside the hopper

Also, the ash pan gasket, rarely is good enough to pass the dollar bill test. I added another flat gasket, over the factory one. Increasing its thickness by 2. Much tighter now. Also, door gaske needs checked.

Clean and lube the shafts of the 2 actuators that clean the pot in the back of the stove.

And the pot, I would close up a few high holes. A couple rows on the front and back of pot (pusher and front door) and I did the 4 high holes n the sides (your pot may be different, based on age).

There are some updates if you wanna drop a dime or two. The sail switch may not be on yours? Look inside the intake, if it has a metal flapper, then push on it with a screwdriver? If it hinges from the top? It's the old one and only opens 50% when running, because gravity wants to close it. The new switch is hinged on the side and opens 100% when running. Also a new High flow manifold was introduced, and it helped tremendously with my burn, coupled with the new high flow sail switch, all new gaskets and a few select holes, filled with cement.

Congrats.... This isn't Earl's? This is the other one?

i wished it was earl's but i couldn't wait any longer and loose the chance on this one. it's put away in my small shop for now and i will blow the heck out of it with air. just waiting for the weather to warm-up to tackle the stove. i gotta start on my basement wall preparation(moving laundry sink, washer, dryer, plumbing, wiring and drywall). and to add to the chores, honeydo list! anyone know how close to a oil tank the chimney installed? the exhaust on the stove is on the wrong side so forcing me to put the exhaust pipe on a slight vertical angle to give me space on the side of the furnace & wall

 

[DexterDay]

I would check to be sure. But it should be 48" away from any other intake or exhaust, for another appliance.

Maybe 36"?? Not sure. Its at least 3 or 4 ft.

 

[343amc]

I had a similar issue with the oil tank. Where I wanted the furnace originally would have been 5 feet from the tank. It was probably far enough to meet code but it was too close for my comfort.

Below the control panel is a cover you can remove to get access to a clean out hole for the exhaust. Check the gasket behind the clean out plate when you remove it. Mine was shot from the previous owner removing that plate and not replacing the gasket.

No sail switch on the manual ignition units, but there is an orange neoprene flapper that goes in there. Mine was caked up with pellet dust. I removed the intake tube (4 screws) and cleaned the crud off that flapper. Piece of cake.

If you take the side panels off make sure you give the convection blower a good blowout at the same time. I hit mine with the compressor when it was in the garage and killed several dust bunnies.

 

[DexterDay]

Time to update the Signature

Your keeping the Harman? Correct?

I have tried running mine several different ways. Most of my registers are for the bedrooms and bathrooms. There is 2 registers for the kitchen and Family room (one large room), then the other registers are in the kids bedrooms, there bathroom, and one in my Master Bath.

When its really cold 10° outside, the bedrooms would overheat, before the stat was satisfied in the hallway. Because the doors are closed, the stat would finally reach 73° when the bedrooms were over 76° With doors open, the Fahrenheit is a Dream and.operates better than I could have imagined. But doors closed, leaves little heat flowing out and returning through the Dining/Living.room

So, when its Super Cold now, I run manual level 2 and then keep the Quad stat at 73° also. This keeps the entire house the same temp at night. The Quad handles the hallway , living room, and dining room. The Fahrenheit handles the baths, bedrooms, kitchen, and family room. The Quad may kick on twice, three times max in the night. But I would rather do this than overheat the bedrooms. I can just run level 2, but then the Living room/Dining room, and hallways are pretty chilly and take awhile after the doors are open and heat starts flowing out of them.

I plan on running 3 extra duct runs off the Main trunk this Summer. One fore the living room, Dining room, and an extra one for our Master bedroom. This will take away from massive amount of air coming into my kids rooms.

Options. All about options. I ran the furnace completely different this season, than last. And with a new freestanding coming this.year, and more registers added for next season. I will have a whole new learning curve.

Cant wait for your install pics and thoughts on the unit.

Are you hooking it into an existing system? Or making it a stand alone System, with its own ductwork? (This would be my ideal situation). Again, Congratulations

 

[ivanhoe]

Time to update the Signature

Your keeping the Harman? Correct?

I have tried running mine several different ways. Most of my registers are for the bedrooms and bathrooms. There is 2 registers for the kitchen and Family room (one large room), then the other registers are in the kids bedrooms, there bathroom, and one in my Master Bath.

When its really cold 10° outside, the bedrooms would overheat, before the stat was satisfied in the hallway. Because the doors are closed, the stat would finally reach 73° when the bedrooms were over 76° With doors open, the Fahrenheit is a Dream and.operates better than I could have imagined. But doors closed, leaves little heat flowing out and returning through the Dining/Living.room

So, when its Super Cold now, I run manual level 2 and then keep the Quad stat at 73° also. This keeps the entire house the same temp at night. The Quad handles the hallway , living room, and dining room. The Fahrenheit handles the baths, bedrooms, kitchen, and family room. The Quad may kick on twice, three times max in the night. But I would rather do this than overheat the bedrooms. I can just run level 2, but then the Living room/Dining room, and hallways are pretty chilly and take awhile after the doors are open and heat starts flowing out of them.

I plan on running 3 extra duct runs off the Main trunk this Summer. One fore the living room, Dining room, and an extra one for our Master bedroom. This will take away from massive amount of air coming into my kids rooms.

Options. All about options. I ran the furnace completely different this season, than last. And with a new freestanding coming this.year, and more registers added for next season. I will have a whole new learning curve.

Cant wait for your install pics and thoughts on the unit.

Are you hooking it into an existing system? Or making it a stand alone System, with its own ductwork? (This would be my ideal situation). Again, Congratulations

thx dexter,

updating the sig is a must along a new avatar to follow! i plan to attach it to the existing oil furnace well that's the plan if i see it through. if i could put check valves on the existing ducts then it could warrant a self ductwork output but being a finished basement it could be a problem. thx for the kind words on the acquired furnace but be prepared for the abundance of questions