new gasket, what to do with ends

[EJL923]

im installing my first gasket on my rockland. ive never replaced one on any stove. my only question, what to do with the cut ends? i saw on a tutorial here to use masking tape, but im wonder if theres a better way? they will fray im guessing when its cut, and it will also be a weak spot for sealing.
give me some tips!

 

[Sodbuster]

Just butt them tightly together and use whatever adhesive you are using to seal them.

 

[EJL923]

I bought one of the Rutland kits which comes with cement I think. I didn't think it would be flexible enough to use for that.

 

[xman23]

Here's what I do. Practice the cut on some extra gasket material. I forgot what I used to do the cut, but scissors, etc. Don't cut the finial length until your gluing it in. Lay the gasket in with out stretching or bunching it up. Cut the ends with a little extra, and tuck it down into the glue. I use high temp silicon.

 

[madison]

Make sure the Rutland cement is the BLACK - not the clear which has been in the kits. The clear will not last, its temp range is not high enough IMHO and experience. Search this site for other cement/glue options as well.

Rutland Black: http://www.acehardware.com/product/..._clickid=4aa888b2-200f-439d-9acf-de7dce01059d

 

[Woody Stover]

I bought one of the Rutland kits which comes with cement I think. I didn't think it would be flexible enough to use for that.

I had an ash pan gasket on the Buck that had frayed apart, leaving a gap that allowed too much air in through the ash dump. I worked a small amount of silicone into the ends, but tried not to put so much that it got hard. they used silicone on the door and ash pan gaskets on the Buck...

 

[rwhite]

im installing my first gasket on my rockland. ive never replaced one on any stove. my only question, what to do with the cut ends? i saw on a tutorial here to use masking tape, but im wonder if theres a better way? they will fray im guessing when its cut, and it will also be a weak spot for sealing.
give me some tips!

I just tuck the fray ends back inside the gasket.

 

[Sprinter]

Just butt them tightly together and use whatever adhesive you are using to seal them.

Try red RTV. Begreen here swears by it. I've used the black Rutland cement for something else, but found it to be very hard and brittle and doesn't seem to adhere well. Just my experience.

 

[begreen]

Try red RTV. Begreen here swears by it. I've used the black Rutland cement for something else, but found it to be very hard and brittle and doesn't seem to adhere well. Just my experience.

I had a thread back in January exploring this topic. The consensus was red rtv, so that is what I used after getting tired of conventional gasket cement failures. It's only been on my stove for a month. At this point I am not sure if I will be swearing by it or at it. ;-) Ask me in 5 yrs.

PS: research did show that a lot of major stove companies are using rtv now.

 

[madison]

My experience: the rutland clear lasted less than a month, turned brittle, and delaminated all around, attempted to reglue sections with same result. Second attempt with Rutland Black has lasted more than three years - and no signs of failure. Both times I removed the door, wire brush, vacuum, rubbing alcohol and then apply cement and gasket - wait a few hours then rehang door and small fire to cure per instructions.

 

[Woody Stover]

research did show that a lot of major stove companies are using rtv now.

I think it will hold up fine, as long as the door frame is shielded from direct radiation from flame and coals. IOW, the front steel on the stove, around the load opening, should overlap and shield the door frame.
I used the orange or copper RTV from the auto parts store, the stuff that says "use for exhaust systems."

 

[begreen]

Yes, the copper stuff is a bit higher temp. I think Highbeam used that also. Most stove mfgs appear to be using the black rtv which is a bit lower temp than the red.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

To echo what others have said: cut the gasket a bit long and make sure the cut ends are stuffed together. This will give a good seal. Just make sure it's not so much extra that it make the surface bumpy and uneven.

Also, that black Rutland cement has also done great for me. It holds up really well.

 

[Woody Stover]

Most stove mfgs appear to be using the black rtv which is a bit lower temp than the red.

This stuff is black...I bet they are using something similar. Probably not going to the local AutoZone.

 

[begreen]

I'm not sure about that, I haven't used or seen their sealant. The product I have seen is black silicone. Note that Buck sells black silicone at its store for a gasket adhesive.

 

[Sprinter]

At this point I am not sure if I will be swearing by it or at it. ;-) Ask me in 5 yrs.

I laughed at the 5 year thing, but then realized that five years is getting shorter and shorter all the time. It's going on 5 years since I joined, and it seems like nothing.

 

[Woody Stover]

Buck sells black silicone at its store for a gasket adhesive.

Oh yeah, I saw that several years ago but had forgotten about it. I didn't see anything that specifically said "gasket adhesive, but they have some Red Devil stuff which I didn't check into yet, and some C L Laurence black.....but the Laurence red says "high-temp." 600*, like the auto parts stuff. (broken link removed to http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=1099&GroupID=566&History=39324:330:511:524&ModelID=566)

 

[mstoelton]

Some stoves have a space designed (a hole) to tuck the end of the gasket into. there is an overlap, and you tuck both ends into the hole just past the other end. Masking tape can be used to hold the gasket into a small enough cylinder to tuck the end into the hole. The masking tape burns away whenthe stove gets hot, but who cares!