New Harman, Smoke smell in house

[brokenknee]

I would like to say I tried using the search function, spent the last hour or so reading old post dealing with the subject.

I did a self install of my Harman P68 last weekend. I know to expect a smell from a new stove from paint curing etc. That smell is now pretty much gone.

I did a direct vent with an OAK, with either two or three foot horizontal extension on the outside of the house.

My problem, on startup a very strong smoke smell is coming from the stove. When it burned hard it would go away after a while. Tonight had the stove set about 72* went to bed, it is just cool enough (37*) for the stove to run, a slow burn, woke up about two am, strong smoke smell in the house, fire burning low. Turned stove off as the smell was so bad.

This is a brand new stove so I would not think the gaskets on either of the doors would be bad.

Ideas on how to trouble shoot the problem?

 

[stillersnut]

I would like to say I tried using the search function, spent the last hour or so reading old post dealing with the subject.

I did a self install of my Harman P68 last weekend. I know to expect a smell from a new stove from paint curing etc. That smell is now pretty much gone.

I did a direct vent with an OAK, with either two or three foot horizontal extension on the outside of the house.

My problem, on startup a very strong smoke smell is coming from the stove. When it burned hard it would go away after a while. Tonight had the stove set about 72* went to bed, it is just cool enough (37*) for the stove to run, a slow burn, woke up about two am, strong smoke smell in the house, fire burning low. Turned stove off as the smell was so bad.

This is a brand new stove so I would not think the gaskets on either of the doors would be bad.

Ideas on how to trouble shoot the problem?

Did you seal all seams of the pipe? If not, could be leaking from seams.

 

[Speed3]

Definitely check the joints of the vent for leaks. If that isn't it, call the dealer for warranty service.

BTW, off topic, but how good is Bemidji Woolen Mills? I stumbled across their website and am interested in one of their coats.

 

[MikeNH]

Like other folks have already said, check your pipe seams first. I had a similar issue last year though the smell was not strong. It was definitely there though. On the advice of others, I waited until night when the room was nice and dark, and lit the stove. I got behind the stove (as best I could) and using a flashlight against the pipe, I was able to see exactly which joint the smoke was coming out of.

 

[Bioburner]

I double up using both silicone and a wrap of foil duct tape. Any vertical on exhaust and any elbows?

 

[brokenknee]

I did not seal any of the seams, Under trouble shooting in the manual it says to use silicone to seal the seams if you smell smoke. I would think that would make it next to impossible to get the pipe apart when the need arises. I do not have any vertical runs only horizontal. I do have a 45* elbow coming off the back of the stove as it is in a corner.

Do I need to use a high temp silicone? The manual did not specify what type.

Speed3, Bemidji Woolen Mills has a good reputation, but I have not shopped there so can't help you much.

 

[Delta-T]

yes, hi-temp silly-cone. there aren't a lot of instances where you'll need to disassemble the pipe. just get a nice bendy brush for cleaning the pipe.you can disconnect the stove from the pipe by undoing the exhaust flange (3 bolts) if you need to. good luck.

 

[P38X2]

+100 on the above posts. The flashlight method works VERY well. Make sure your foil tape is applied as SMOOTH as possible. If you have ripples, redo that area first, as it's likely the problem. As others have said, you may have to silicone the seams. Yes, high temp stuff. By seams, we mean the long seam down the length of each section. As far as joints go, try and use just the tape. If you find it still leaks, you may have to silicone those too. Try NOT to get silicone INSIDE the connection! Put a thin layer where the pipe fittings overlap. Let it cure a bit, then tape it.

If you have an elbow, try and use the flashlight method on that. You MAY end up siliconing all the articulating sections in it. Those things can be a pain!

 

[Bioburner]

P38X2 did a good job of describing how to properly seal things up. Someone needs to make a short video on venting assembly and sealing methods as this seems to be one of the top new to pellet stove complaints.

 

[gbreda]

If you have an elbow, try and use the flashlight method on that. You MAY end up siliconing all the articulating sections in it. Those things can be a pain!

Great advise, especially the elbow.

Very good point ! I had the same issue on startup and the final issue was the 90 deg. My issue was not the points from 1 pipe to the next, it was the manufacture joints on the bend. Replaced the joint and had the same issue. Finally taped the bend and has been no issue in 3 years.

Also, did you silicone the exhaust adapter joint? That is a must.

This was with ICC pipe.

 

[P38X2]

Great advise, especially the elbow.

Very good point ! I had the same issue on startup and the final issue was the 90 deg. My issue was not the points from 1 pipe to the next, it was the manufacture joints on the bend. Replaced the joint and had the same issue. Finally taped the bend and has been no issue in 3 years.

Also, did you silicone the exhaust adapter joint? That is a must.

This was with ICC pipe.

What a pain, huh? My problem elbow was Simpson brand. Surprise! Lol. I'm actually surprised that ANY manufacturer can make an articulating PV joint that doesn't leak.

 

[gbreda]

What a pain, huh? My problem elbow was Simpson brand. Surprise! Lol. I'm actually surprised that ANY manufacturer can make an articulating PV joint that doesn't leak.

How true. Luckily my stove is in an unfinished basement so tape on the pipe is not an appearance issue.

 

[P38X2]

Another bit of advice....If you don't have a CO detector, GET ONE !

 

[iron stove]

YES on CO detector. Did a call the other night with CO from a Wood stove !!

Also, remember, pellet stoves use pressurized exhaust, unlike a wood stove, so much easier to get a leak

 

[brokenknee]

Thanks for all the replies, will have to run to town to get some high temp silicone. Yes we do have a CO detector.

We have heated with wood the last two year as the main source of heat, so we are use to a "little" smoke smell. We will continue to heat with wood once I get the new wood stove installed. We purchased the pellet stove for the convenience, I occasionally travel for my job and it will make it easier for the wife to heat the place.

 

[kinsmanstoves]

Is there an adapter between the stove and the 45 elbow you mentioned?

Eric

 

[Lousyweather]

meh.....my money on this one is on the stove nipple-pipe connection......otherwise, its Simpson pipe....'nuff said

 

[Harman Lover 007]

meh.....my money on this one is on the stove nipple-pipe connection......otherwise, its Simpson pipe....'nuff said

That was my question....what brand of venting is it? If its Simpson DuraVent, forget it. The connector on the back of the stove is usually the culprit, especially if you don't have the proper adapter that Eric is asking about above.....

 

[hooter04]

Thats a good question Eric,funny you say that.I went to a friends to install a magnum baby,and asked him if he had a stove adapter to connect 45 to,nope so guess what,he went and got one.Needless to say no smoke smell,and don't forget the high temp silicone on the adapter

 

[pell it]

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tap...33-yds-Silicone-Sealing-Tape-684201/100206050

I use this on my painted dura-leak pipe and it seals well. It is rated to +500 degrees F.

 

[imacman]

I used hi-temp silicone just on the stove adapter pipe connection to the stove exhaust manifold, then used furnace tape on all the others. You can spray paint it too.

 

[brokenknee]

Update, I do have an adaptor from the stove to the pipe, that is now siliconed in place. I taped the other two connections that are inside the house. This cut down on the smoke but did not stop it entirely. I do not know the brand of the piping, it was supplied by the dealer.

I was looking at the gasket around the stove it is a light brown in most spots. I checked the gasket with a dollar bill and was able to easily pull the dollar out. I know on a refrigerator that would be considered a bad seal. Does the same apply for pellet stoves? How else would one check the gasket? Is there any adjustment on the Harman P68 door to tighten the gasket?

I have yet to call the dealer as I want to try to eliminate all the small stuff he would suggest first. If it is the gasket, would it be reasonable to expect him to come to my home to replace it? I live 1 1/2 hours from the dealer.

Again thanks for all the replies, I appreciate them all.

 

[P38X2]

Check your manual. Almost positive it shows the procedure for tightening the door.

 

[P38X2]

Doh, maybe not. Mine doesn't anyway. I'd venture to guess you can loosen the setscrew on the little cam tang thing on the inside of the door and slide it a bit closer to the door. Might require a bit of trial and error.

 

[P38X2]

OK, the 68 latches differently from the 38

Try this if you don't have your manual handy....page 25 I think
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CDAQFjAB&url=http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/P68.pdf&ei=LEREUsCSBvGr4APu_YGACQ&usg=AFQjCNFaR4xNHjzbKBebUFlJfGvO0cDAwg