New Hearthstone Clydesdale - best thermometer placement?

[jpl1nh]

Have a beautiful new Clydesdale all set up and running, going through break in fires right now. What is the best thermometer placement and what type should I use. If your recommendation is a probe type, where do you place that and how? Thanks all.

 

[gls289]

Have a beautiful new Clydesdale all set up and running, going through break in fires right now. What is the best thermometer placement and what type should I use. If your recommendation is a probe type, where do you place that and how? Thanks all.

We used to have a magnetic mount temp gauge next to the draft bolt on top. Just left the warming grill off. Now we have a digital gauge with the sensor held down by part of the draft bolt. Allows us to have the warming grill back on.

 

[Eaglecraft]

Have a beautiful new Clydesdale all set up and running, going through break in fires right now. What is the best thermometer placement and what type should I use. If your recommendation is a probe type, where do you place that and how? Thanks all.

As you can see from the photo, I have an Omega, 0 to 700 degrees F, thermometer, leaning up against the flue collar - more or less. No mater where you place any temperature measuring device, all measurements are going to be relative. I put the Omega where it is just to avoid over-firing Clyde. I try to keep the indicated temperature under 500 degrees F. I don't overload Clyde - I never pack it to the gills - just enough to keep the house (2000 sf ranch) comfy. And then I adjust the air control so that Clyde is not burning too hot. I close the air down substantially to get a longer burn. I burn very dry wood - most of my wood has been drying for four years. So I get very little material when I clean the liner.

I have to be careful about running Clyde when it gets too cold ( I think that it hit -10F last night) because my plumbing runs under my floors in a crawl space. We have no basement. What we do have is laval rock. When Clyde is burning, the thermostats don't call for heat from my forced-air natural gas furnace. The leakage from my forced-air ductwork keeps my plumbing from freezing. So in more temperate conditions, I use Clyde to keep the gas bills low. Clyde's heat is very comfortable - much more so than forced-air.

Good Luck and have great 2017.

 

[jpl1nh]

We used to have a magnetic mount temp gauge next to the draft bolt on top. Just left the warming grill off. Now we have a digital gauge with the sensor held down by part of the draft bolt. Allows us to have the warming grill back on.

That sounds like a good set up. I must say the stove is incredibly easy to use. I'm not sure how necessary a thermometer is.

 

[jpl1nh]

As you can see from the photo, I have an Omega, 0 to 700 degrees F, thermometer, leaning up against the flue collar - more or less. No mater where you place any temperature measuring device, all measurements are going to be relative. I put the Omega where it is just to avoid over-firing Clyde. I try to keep the indicated temperature under 500 degrees F. I don't overload Clyde - I never pack it to the gills - just enough to keep the house (2000 sf ranch) comfy. And then I adjust the air control so that Clyde is not burning too hot. I close the air down substantially to get a longer burn. I burn very dry wood - most of my wood has been drying for four years. So I get very little material when I clean the liner.

I have to be careful about running Clyde when it gets too cold ( I think that it hit -10F last night) because my plumbing runs under my floors in a crawl space. We have no basement. What we do have is laval rock. When Clyde is burning, the thermostats don't call for heat from my forced-air natural gas furnace. The leakage from my forced-air ductwork keeps my plumbing from freezing. So in more temperate conditions, I use Clyde to keep the gas bills low. Clyde's heat is very comfortable - much more so than forced-air.

Good Luck and have great 2017.

We have a large well insulated house with a fairly unique open concept floor plan. I'm guessing this can cut our heating bill at least in half if we use it all the time. I was running a Woodstock Keystone before and I brought about 6 cords of wood with me when we moved to the new house. This stove I think will run better on thicker pieces of wood than the Keystone liked so I suspect we'll be reloading a bit more often than necessary until we get to wood cut and split for the Clydesdale. Gotta burn dry wood, that is key! Most of mine is probably at least 3 years dry, perhaps some pine and red maple might be two but you are so correct. DRY wood, thanks for your input.

 

[gls289]

That sounds like a good set up. I must say the stove is incredibly easy to use. I'm not sure how necessary a thermometer is.

I really like the alarm feature that alerts us when we forget about the stove and it hits 600 degrees!

 

[Clydeburner]

Like said before take you readings near the front by the draft bolt under the warming grill and dry wood is always a good idea. I am using a PID and a thermocouple off EB total cost less then $30 it also has an alarm feature and can control external devices. I also have another thermocouple inserted in the flue behind the stove and use that alarm set at 900°f. This setup has worked well. Don't be afraid of stuffing the stove to the air tube station, the Clydesdale is very forgiving I have had it over 700°f but try to operate under 600°f to help prevent the gaskets between the section from failing prematurely.