New here...Alderlea T5 insert

[firebroad]

Hi all,
I'm now to this site, and new to burning wood for serious heat. I got my Alderlea T5 in Majolica Brown installed in September after waiting six months for it. It was worth the wait! it is a lovely piece of equipment, and is perfect for my 1010 squarefoot single level stone home in Carroll County, Maryland. The house is pretty much an open floor plan, so except for the bedrooms (who cares) the whole house gets nice and toasty . I use it to supplement my VERY EXPENSIVE Oil boiler, as I work most of the day so I can't really use wood for about 12 hours mon-fri.

So my question is, how can I tell is my wood is good and dry without an expensive gizmo to stick in a log? I only have about 3/4 cord at this time in December, so I will have to buy more, and I have read in here that wood can be green when you buy it and don't let it sit, even though the dealers tell you it has been seasoned.

Should I burn hot, with the intake wide open as I have been doing? Frankly, I can't see any advantage to adjusting it, as even if I only slide the bar halfway, the logs seem to just smolder sometimes. I do that only when I am going to bed. Not sure if an open air intake will suck any air up the chimney (sealed) as it used to do with the fireplace.

Also, I bought a Firedragon blow poke, this thing is awesome! But how do you use it and not get backpuffing (cough cough) into the room? I try to be careful and fast, but I still get a smokey cloud sometimes.

 

[begreen]

Welcome abroad firebroad. Congratulations. That's the beauty queen of inserts. To test for dry wood, take a medium size split and split it in half again with an axe or maul. Then press the freshly exposed surface of wood against your cheek. If it feels cool and damp, it is still drying out. Also, if you take two splits and bang them together they will thud if damp and will produce a musical note (like claves) if nice and dry.

I suspect you are getting some smoke spill because of the mild outdoor temps. Is this a one story chimney? When it gets colder outside, the draft will improve. You should try a batch of SuperCedars. They make firestarting child's play. PM Thomas for a free sample:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/77926/

 

[firebroad]

Thanks! I can't wait to go and try the split and the wood-clack test! Unfortunately, I am sure the wood dealer would not be too happy with me splitting his wood before I buy...oh, well!
I have been reading the latest post of getting the fire good and hot, and it seems I am doing a LOT of things wrong! I leave the door ajar until the fire is good and hot, leave intake dampers on full, etc.
And yes, my chimney is not as high as it could be, that was a problem I had with the open fireplace. Lots of trees have grown tall in 50 years.
As far as getting the fire started, no problems, the back puffing starts when the fire dies down and I add some wood, then want to "puff" it to life. It flares right up, but I can't get the door closed fast enough for the smoke not to escape.
I am really impressed with the Alderlea, but it's my first stove, so I guess I am biased.
I use Fatwood for starters. Also, have some eastern red cedar that was a casualty of a bad storm last year.

 

[begreen]

I used do that all the time when I had wood delivered. And I did turn back loads. If the wood dealer is reputable, he won't mind. Wet wood is useless this season.

You should not have to leave the door slightly ajar once the fire is established. If the kindling and wood is dry this shouldn't be much more than 5 minutes.

It sounds like your wood may not be fully seasoned. This combined with weak draft is going to make a balky stove. When you reload. Rake the coals to the front and center of the firebox. Place a couple small dry splits or better yet two 2" diam. kindling stick on the coals, before loading in the rest of the wood. If that cedar is very dry it is a good thing to put on the bottom of the reload. Cedar has high oil content and is more volatile. There's a video (Efficient Wood Stove Operation) at the bottom of this linked page that may be helpful to you:

http://www.woodheat.org/wood-heat-videos.html

 

[firebroad]

((You should not have to leave the door slightly ajar once the fire is established. If the kindling and wood is dry this shouldn’t be much more than 5 minutes))

Oh, good, at least I am doing that part right!

Also, I think you got it right on all points. Though my wood is dry, We get a lot of misty type rains, so sometimes it acts like it is green. And I do find that using the cedar really gets her going fast! I guess I just wanted to try out my new Firedragon on the maple... :roll:

I think I will use smaller splits to start, as well.

 

[raybonz]

Congrats firebroad (love the name lol) that is one beautiful insert! So far I love my freestanding T-5 heating 1600+ sq. ft.in Mass. and I'm sure that insert will easily heat your space as long as you have dry firewood..

Ray

 

[firebroad]

Thanks, Raybonz!

I think I've got it sussed now, thanks to Begreen's suggestions--going from a fireplace to a stove, there is a learning curve involved. I think I have the Blow Poke/smoke situation solved--all I had to do was not blow so hard. I found it was not necessary to puff my lungs out to get the flames stoked up. Also, I seem to have a desire to load it up with fuel when I burns down, so I have to control myself there, too.

I really love the Alderlea, too! Just wish it was easier to latch the door when it heats up, I have to really push in and up. What can I say, I am old

 

[tleddy]

Thank you all for the thread on the T5.

I have one on order and am really looking forward to it!!

 

[certified106]

Thank you all for the thread on the T5.

I have one on order and am really looking forward to it!!

Welcome to the forums! There is tons of great information here on the T5 if you use the search feature. Feel free to ask any questions you might have.

 

[tleddy]

I just noticed the "I am old"; not sure what that means anymore

My Father-in-law is 88 and going strong. while my neighbor (now in Atlanta) is 93 and she is doing very well.

I just turned 70 and the T5 is my first wood-burning stove. I had a coal stove when I was in Connecticut and ran it for two seasons on 3 tons of coal. Hardwood is plentiful here in NC so I decided on a wood stove. Wish me luck!!

Thanks, Raybonz!

I think I've got it sussed now, thanks to Begreen's suggestions--going from a fireplace to a stove, there is a learning curve involved. I think I have the Blow Poke/smoke situation solved--all I had to do was not blow so hard. I found it was not necessary to puff my lungs out to get the flames stoked up. Also, I seem to have a desire to load it up with fuel when I burns down, so I have to control myself there, too.

I really love the Alderlea, too! Just wish it was easier to latch the door when it heats up, I have to really push in and up. What can I say, I am old

 

[firebroad]

Hope yo really enjoy your Alderlea T5 as much as I do.
Just another thought about the Alderlea insert: if you have to buy firewood from a dealer as opposed to harvesting your own, be aware that about 50% or more can be an inch or two too long to fit in the firebox N/S or E/W. I don't know if you can specifically purchase "stove lengths" wwhere you are, but I can't, so I have to lop off an inch or so to keep the wood from blocking the front intakes. Seems to work better that way.

Ha ha! Old for me is mid sixties, but have some lymphedema issues going on that prevents me to do what I did years ago. I hope I am still reasonably self sufficent when I am as old as you and your dad!!

 

[begreen]

If purchasing wood, tell the vendor that the largest your stove takes is 16", no exceptions. You'll still get some 18" splits, but at least they'll fit.

 

[firebroad]

Thanks for the advice. I may have to shop around for that here, but it would probably be worth the price to not have to sharpen the chain so much.

 

[begreen]

16" is pretty standard for wood sellers. Three stack rows, 8'x4' make a cord. Locally one of the major wood sellers only cuts 16".

 

[fredarm]

Another option is compressed wood bricks, sold under various names such as Bio/Eco/or Geo Bricks and Envi Blocks. They are guaranteed dry. If your wood is less than well seasoned, you can mix the the bricks with the wood and get much better burns. Or just burn the bricks now and wait for your wood to dry for next year. A cheap moisture meter from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool (around $20) is a useful thing to have for evaluating the state of your wood or wood you are considering buying. Just use it on a freshly split piece of wood. Welcome to the PE club! That T5 is sooo nice! Wish they made a T4 insert.

 

[raybonz]

Hope yo really enjoy your Alderlea T5 as much as I do.
Just another thought about the Alderlea insert: if you have to buy firewood from a dealer as opposed to harvesting your own, be aware that about 50% or more can be an inch or two too long to fit in the firebox N/S or E/W. I don't know if you can specifically purchase "stove lengths" wwhere you are, but I can't, so I have to lop off an inch or so to keep the wood from blocking the front intakes. Seems to work better that way.

Ha ha! Old for me is mid sixties, but have some lymphedema issues going on that prevents me to do what I did years ago. I hope I am still reasonably self sufficent when I am as old as you and your dad!!

I have a freestanding T-5 and 18" fit no problem NS is the insert smaller?

Ray

 

[Mumster]

I can fit 20" in my t5 insert a little longer diagonally.

 

[raybonz]

I can fit 20" in my t5 insert a little longer diagonally.

The Alderlea site says you can use 18" max just like my stove.. Give it a try I am sure you'll be fine..

Ray

 

[Wood Duck]

It sounds to me like your wood isn't very dry. I don't think your fire should smoulder out when you close the air intake a little, and if you do kill the fire by closing the air too much it should be easily to revive the fire just by increasing the air and waiting a little. Dry wood should burn pretty readily and keep burning.

If you can buy firewood now or at least buy it in the spring and leave it stacked all summer you'll be in reasonably good shape for next year. if you can buy two years ahead you'll be in great shape. I don't think most firewood dealers would complain if you re-split a piece or two to check. It isn't like there is one exactly perfect size for firewood and anything smaller is useless - by splitting you'd be doing a bit of his work for him.

 

[firebroad]

Yeah, the wood is a bit wet. Problem was, I didn't have sufficient time to order way ahead, and had to take what I could get. I am not real pleased with it, and it is too late to do anything about it, live and learn. That is why I am on this website all the time, to learn from older and wiser heads
I measured a sample, and it IS more than 18 inches. This one was nearly 20. This wood came wet and muddy, too. Some of samples give me 19-20 moisture( I got me a moisture meter, worth it!), but most of it is well over 20. I have since found a dealer that has better stuff, but I will pay more, natch. I only heat part time, as I work and am away 11 hours a day. I keep the programmable thermostat set on 59 while I am gone, and when I go to bed. The furnace kicks on to 65 for two house in the morning, and goes on again from 5 to 9 in the evening. Weekends the stove gets used more. I have been using what good wood I have to get everything started, then top off with the less-wet new stuff. I am wondering if using those Kwik-Shot tubes will help flake off some of the crud for the Chimney Sweep. Soon as I can, I plant to get as much wood as possible so I can start to burn dry.
All in all, I absolutely LOVE my Alderlea T5 insert. It's attractive, and can really kick out some heat. Who needs television when you've got one of these beauties!

 

[certified106]

Glad to hear you are liking the T5 it is definitely gorgeous especially the enameled ones like yours! Once you get comfortable with the stove, have dry wood, and are ok leaving it unattended you will find that stove will burn for 11 hours with coals for a restart if you want to run while you are at work.

 

[firebroad]

Getting excited already!
It's amazing how obsessed I can get with this stuff, there should be a Wood Burner's Anonymous--oops, that right, this is it... ;-)

 

[certified106]

This is not wood burners anonymous.......They encourage my obsession way to much :lol:

 

[madison]

I am wondering if using those Kwik-Shot tubes will help flake off some of the crud for the Chimney Sweep. Soon as I can, I plant to get as much wood as possible so I can start to burn dry.

1. In the meantime just let air open and let the stove burn really hot every now and then. Sorta like we use to do with "dad's" Chevy when we were teenagers, take it out on the freeway and stomp on the gas to "blow the carbon out". ha ha

2. When you get more wood, get it out from under the trees, off the ground in single rows. When you build up the stash, then consider double rows or other storage options.

 

[firebroad]

I've been burning it wide open intermittently to get it going, it is good to know it was the "right" thing to do!
The wood is raised up on 2x4x8's in a single row, except for two towers that are raised up on bricks. Getting it out from under the trees might be a challenge. Even though I am rural, my property is only half an acre, and near a main road. I am leery of putting it in plain sight. There is an area that gets at least half a day's sun, and I am planning to put another cord there, though. The rest is front yard and side garden. I like my trees, and not just to burn.

This lot is stacked north to south, with some pretty strong westerly winds to blow through. Do you think that will help? Also, I have long 30" wide strips of tarp that I lay across the top and anchor down with bricks when it rains. The "good" wood that is 2 years old is stored in a rubbermaid shed ( I have ventilation holes all around), and some is in the big hoop on the porch for immediate use.