Currently, I am building a new house in Rhode Island. I love the look of a fireplace except I want it to be more efficient and keep my heating bill down. It will supplement my main source of heat- propane. I plan on building a traditional fireplace and purchasing an efficient insert. In a greenhorn when it comes to fireplace inserts. Does anyone have any idea of what kind of fireplace insert I should purchase? What would be a good model to heat a 1600 sq ft house? Any other ideas/thoughts are welcome.
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I think you should look at epa certified zeroclearance units they will be cheaper than building a masonry fireplace and then an insert and liner.
I second bhollers suggestion. An insert is a good option to convert an exisiting masonry fireplace in a real heater. It does not make much sense to build a masonry fireplace just to put an insert in. An EPA-approved zero clearance fireplace will be as efficient as a fireplace insert and come considerably cheaper. Here are some just to give you an idea how that would look like:
(broken link removed to http://www.icc-rsf.com/en/rsf-woodburning-fireplaces)
http://www.fireplacex.com/ProductGuide/ProductDetail.aspx?modelsku=98500104
(broken link removed to http://www.kozyheat.com/product/z42)
For more specific recommendations we would need to know the area that you would like to heat. A floorplan would also be good with the proposed location of the fireplace. If you have one a heat-loss analysis will help in deciding the right size. Here is a scheme to show you the difference to a fireplace insert: (broken link removed to http://www.dubuquefireplaceandpatio.com/fireplace.images/zero-clearance-fireplace.jpg)
P.S. If you have money to spend and want a real focal point of your house I would look into building a masonry heater. Their efficiencies rival modern wood stoves and they can be custom designed to your taste. http://www.mha-net.org/ Check the gallery to get an idea what designs are possible.
(broken link removed to http://www.icc-rsf.com/en/rsf-woodburning-fireplaces)
http://www.fireplacex.com/ProductGuide/ProductDetail.aspx?modelsku=98500104
(broken link removed to http://www.kozyheat.com/product/z42)
For more specific recommendations we would need to know the area that you would like to heat. A floorplan would also be good with the proposed location of the fireplace. If you have one a heat-loss analysis will help in deciding the right size. Here is a scheme to show you the difference to a fireplace insert: (broken link removed to http://www.dubuquefireplaceandpatio.com/fireplace.images/zero-clearance-fireplace.jpg)
P.S. If you have money to spend and want a real focal point of your house I would look into building a masonry heater. Their efficiencies rival modern wood stoves and they can be custom designed to your taste. http://www.mha-net.org/ Check the gallery to get an idea what designs are possible.
bholler and Grisu are giving you good insight.
I might add if you buy a freestanding wood stove you could take the money from what you saved from not building the masonry fireplace and use some of that to build a real nice hearth or maybe a nice alcove to put the stove in and still be way ahead.
Thank you for all the info! I didn't even know zero clearance fireplaces existed. This will most likely be the route I take. The masonry fireplaces are also very cool but the budget is getting very tight.
Bholler, the house is a tri level. If you are staring at the house the fireplace will be on the left exterier wall (730 sq ft room- living room and kitchen area) directly facing the stairs up to the bedrooms and below to the laundry room and family room. The house is very well insulated. The verticle exterior walls have spray foam insulation and the attic space is traditional r-38 insulation. Approx 1650 sq ft- not including the basement. Should I look for a zero clearance fireplace rated for an 1800 sq ft house or larger?
Bholler, the house is a tri level. If you are staring at the house the fireplace will be on the left exterier wall (730 sq ft room- living room and kitchen area) directly facing the stairs up to the bedrooms and below to the laundry room and family room. The house is very well insulated. The verticle exterior walls have spray foam insulation and the attic space is traditional r-38 insulation. Approx 1650 sq ft- not including the basement. Should I look for a zero clearance fireplace rated for an 1800 sq ft house or larger?
Don't go with the sqft rating but the size of the firebox. For 1650 sqft in a new, energy efficient construction a firebox of 2 cu ft may already be enough. If you want to be on the safe side look for units that have 2.5 to 3 cu ft. For an airtight construction the installation of an outside air kit is highly recommended to improve draft and increase energy efficiency. Some models allow additional ducting so with fan assist you may be able to dump some of the warm air into the basement. Besides the ones I mentioned above, here are some more options:
http://www.heatnglo.com/Products/North-Star-Wood-Fireplace.aspx or http://www.heatilator.com/Products/Constitution-Wood-Fireplace.aspx
(broken link removed to http://www.osburnwoodstoves.com/Osburn_Stratford_Osburn_Stove_Osburn_Wood_Stove_p/obo4002.htm)
http://pacificenergy.net/products/wood/fireplaces/fp30/
http://superiorfireplaces.us.com/products/135
When looking at models, make sure they say EPA-certified or similar. Stay away from EPA-exempt fireplaces. When in doubt, please ask here and talk to the stove shop. They are there to help you and should know their products best.
Be also aware that you will need dry wood for any of those fireplaces. As most firewood sellers don't have the space and time to stack splits for at least 1 year most people here do the drying themselves. If you plan on burning this winter you will need to get the wood now and stack it up in a sunny and windy location.
http://www.heatnglo.com/Products/North-Star-Wood-Fireplace.aspx or http://www.heatilator.com/Products/Constitution-Wood-Fireplace.aspx
(broken link removed to http://www.osburnwoodstoves.com/Osburn_Stratford_Osburn_Stove_Osburn_Wood_Stove_p/obo4002.htm)
http://pacificenergy.net/products/wood/fireplaces/fp30/
http://superiorfireplaces.us.com/products/135
When looking at models, make sure they say EPA-certified or similar. Stay away from EPA-exempt fireplaces. When in doubt, please ask here and talk to the stove shop. They are there to help you and should know their products best.
Be also aware that you will need dry wood for any of those fireplaces. As most firewood sellers don't have the space and time to stack splits for at least 1 year most people here do the drying themselves. If you plan on burning this winter you will need to get the wood now and stack it up in a sunny and windy location.
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