New Install - First Time - Venting Questions

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jrsdws

Feeling the Heat
Feb 9, 2011
430
Central Illinois
Hey all. I just ordered a Magnum Baby Countryside that will be installed in my garage, which has just been insulated and finished on the inside. The goal is to run with a thermostat and keep garage temp somewhere around 40ish with the ability to warm it up when necessary for work, etc.

Is a direct horizontal vent/straight out the wall install ok for this?

I have enough PL rated exhaust vent to run at least 30" past the exterior of the garage. I'm located in Central Illinois so I don't think altitude is much of an issue. Total length of 3" exhaust will be about 40". I will also add battery backup in case of power outage to prevent smoke backing up inside before I get the generator running.

I had also planned on connected fresh air from the outside.

Also, any tips on how to manage the aluminum siding to install the wall thimble?
 
Down load the installation manual for the stove and read it from cover to cover.

Also see what your local code enforcement folks say about a garage install.
 
Garage install approved by insurance.

I've read the manual and it seems somewhat contradictory to me. It says the horizontal/direct vent is acceptable, but also that they recommend a vertical run in case of power loss to prevent back draft.

I'm interested in knowing others experiences and success/failures with this type of install, please.
 
In general, follow the owners manual recommendations. The direct vent will work and is used by many people, unless it's located on the windward side of the garage....that will cause problems burning on windy days.

IMO, add some vertical to the install.....3-4' minimum.

Good luck and don't forget to post pics after install.
 
Thanks imacman. The vent will be out the east wall. Our prevailing winter winds are, of course, from the north and west. The house provides complete wind block from the north. We do get a couple of good storms from the east every year, though. They are usually the big ones.

Do you use the vertical termination cap if I run it up 5' or so? Or do I put an elbow up top and use the horizontal cap?
 
Since your insurance company is happy you have one approval down, now try the local code enforcement folks as they have to also approve it if there are building codes.

You have a choice on which method you use to vent the unit.

If the unit has a sealed air intake system the addition of an OAK should take care of any exhaust back flow provided the OAK exits the building on the same side as the vent.

You use a horizontal termination on the "vertical" portion (that is you turn the corner and vent horizontally) unless the vertical portion rises above the roof line etc ...
 
LOL...we live pretty rurally and I don't know much about building codes. We remodeled and put on a large addition a couple of years ago with proper permits and all and nary an inspector came by.

The unit has battery backup capability which is supposed to take over immediately in case of a power failure. I'm thinking this would be good and it would prevent back draft.

I'm going to try initial install as direct horizontal. If it doesn't work or I don't like it I'll just pull cap and add a "T" and vertical run.
 
My buddy (Forum member barnyard840x) has a Baby and his is Direct vent. Almost 4' of Horizontal.

Runs like a champ. He has not had a problem with the direct vent. Although he has not lost power either. Hook the OAK up, if at all possible. The auto parts store sells flexible exhaust and works well for this application. This will also help in the event of a power outage.

Good luck. And dont forget to post pics.
 
I could not put a pellet stove in my garage because of insurance. It had to be a "traditional" furnace because the garage was "unoccupied." However in my occupied domicile a wood furnace or pellet furnace was no problem.
 
Oh yeah...I have everything to hook up to outside air. Intake on the stove is 3" so I bought B-Vent components including 90deg elbow to turn down and cover to keep the critters out. I think this is sufficient?
 
Thanks everyone for pushing me towards the safe side. I spent my morning checking every possible code every way that I could and I guess there are no restrictions for this installation. I called the local fire chief, local licensed plumber/hvac guy, and two different dealers who install and I'm comfortable that I can move forward.

With that being said, please offer your experience and knowledge concerning distance from floor to flame. This is what seemed to be the sticky on possible codes for garage/shop installation. The Baby burn pot is 14" from the floor. I'd like to just set the stove on the concrete floor and install there. This makes it easier for me to vent horizontally and maintain adequate distance from a nearby window.
 
Concrete is a non combustible, as long as there is nothing under it within the required thickness of concrete to provide the proper r factor for the concrete to be on a combustible material you are good to go.

The concrete satisfies the ember protection requirements, its thickness will determine if it satisfies the required thermal protection if any is required.

Page 5 of the document at this link http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...kP2iDw&usg=AFQjCNEPWQ6XZrFk7-K41KCutL3nUX0ohA

has a table of r values of certain materials used to construct hearth pads etc ...

the manual should speak to floor protection requirements.
 
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