New Install Question - Woodstove

[dwolek]

I know this is a fairly rudimentary question, and I did search the site but couldn't find what I'm looking for so here goes. I'm looking to install a woodstove against a 25' wall of my great room (the house is a bungalow with a loft). On the other side of the wall are bedrooms with 9' ceilings. My question is about flue linings - I plan on putting the flue in the wall and running in through the attic to the roof (there is no existing chimney). What is a suitable liner material to run through the wall assuming I will have to build a bulkhead in one of the bedrooms to any clearance requirements (what are these 2"). Does this bulkhead need to be cement board vs drywall, steel vs wood studding, insulated with anything.

Sorry if this is a basic question for this forum, but I want to educate myself somewhat before I go searching for stoves.

Thanks

 

[Pagey]

Wait. Are you wanting to build a masonry chimney or use a prefab metal chimney? Your stove will vent into either single wall stove pipe (requires 18" of clearance to combustibles) or double wall stove pipe (requires 6" of CTCs). That stove pipe will either: connect to a masonry chimney; connect to a ceiling support with an adapter where it will then transition to a Class A HT stainless steel metal chimney; or connect to a special thimble that exits a wall and runs up the outside of the house with said prefab metal chimney. I don't think you can run a chimney " inside a wall". Most stoves require 6" Class A, which puts you at an outer diameter of 8", and then it needs 2" CTCs all around.

 

[Fsappo]

Wait. Are you wanting to build a masonry chimney or use a prefab metal chimney? Your stove will vent into either single wall stove pipe (requires 18" of clearance to combustibles) or double wall stove pipe (requires 6" of CTCs). That stove pipe will either: connect to a masonry chimney; connect to a ceiling support with an adapter where it will then transition to a Class A HT stainless steel metal chimney; or connect to a special thimble that exits a wall and runs up the outside of the house with said prefab metal chimney. I don't think you can run a chimney " inside a wall". Most stoves require 6" Class A, which puts you at an outer diameter of 8", and then it needs 2" CTCs all around.

What Pagey said. You can install a class A chimney and box it in, but the liner inside the wall thing makes me nervous

 

[dwolek]

Ok Thanks. Yes I'm planning a prefab metal chimney etc. So if I understand you correctly, using a double wall stove pipe / ceiling support / ss metal chimney option, I would have an 8" outer diameter plus 2" clearance (sorry what does CTCs mean?) gives me a total of 10". This would be the vertical bulkhead / chase size i.e. 10x10 I would have to build in the room opposite the great room wall?

Thanks

 

[Pagey]

CTCs = Clearance To Combustibles. Let me show you some pics of my install so you can get a visual. I have about 4.5' of double wall stove pipe (8" outer diameter) which connects to a ceiling support box. This box penetrates the den ceiling and exits into a bedroom corner upstairs where the flue transitions to 6" (8" outer diameter) Class A. Then it passes through the attic (where you'll see an attic insulation shield to honor the 2" CTCs that all Class A must meet). From there it's out the roof!

Stove downstairs in the den:

Ceiling support box where the double wall stove pipe connects:

Transition from stove pipe to 6" Class A UL103 HT in the bedroom:

Into the attic with the radiation shield to honor the 2" CTCs:

From there it's out the roof with the flashing, storm collar, and rain cap.

 

[dwolek]

Exactly. You just gave me an idea though - if I run the stove pipe in the great room up to say 9 or 10' (to clear the ceiling of the opposite room), then I can do a 45 into the attic and through the roof. This would avoid loosing space and that whole bulkhead issue I was talking about in the original post. Is there an issue with say the two 45's with respect to cleaning or soot build up. Either way, I'll get a qualified contractor and permits, insurance inspection etc etc
Thanks

 

[Pagey]

Can you put up a pic of the great room where you would like to put the stove?

 

[Highbeam]

Then Pagey built a chase around that silver pipe in the upstairs room.

The silver pipe is very expensive, the black pipe especially if you can use single wall with 18" CTC will be very cheap. Why not run an exposed pipe to the vaulted ceiling 20 feet up and then switch to the silver pipe for the rest of the run through the attic and roof?

If you choose to build a chase/bulkhead the bulkhead material can be anything so long as it is outside of the 2" CTC. Typically it is framed like a wall.

 

[Pagey]

Yes, I always forget to mention you gotta close up any Class A in a living space.

 

[PJF1313]

Exactly. You just gave me an idea though - if I run the stove pipe in the great room up to say 9 or 10' (to clear the ceiling of the opposite room), then I can do a 45 into the attic and through the roof. This would avoid loosing space and that whole bulkhead issue I was talking about in the original post. Is there an issue with say the two 45's with respect to cleaning or soot build up. Either way, I'll get a qualified contractor and permits, insurance inspection etc etc
Thanks

Don't use the 45's - the max allowed for wood is 30's. Also, you need to use class "A" once you leave your great room. Single, or even double wall STOVE pipe is only allowed in the same room as the stove. If you go into a second story, you must use class "A" chimney pipe - just another CYA (cover yo azz) and a NFPA (Nat'l Fire Prot. Agcy)mandate. If you have a licensed contractor doing the job, they know more than me about your local codes.

 

[Highbeam]

Ooops, I disagree. You certainly may run 45s with wood stoves, even 90 degree bends are allowed so long as you complete those bends in the black section of pipe. Once you go to class A (the silver pipe) you don't really want any bends and appear to be limited to 30 degree bends for offsets. Remember that every bend installed in your chimney system restricts flow and draft considerably so make every effort to minimize or eliminate all of the bends.

Remember that the stove pipe is only allowed in the same room as the stove. Your stove room is 20 feet tall even though the adjacent loft has a floor along that 20 feet. So you can run black pipe all the way up, 20 feet, to the ceiling of the stove room and then poke through the roof there. It would be a superior installation with no bends so good draft and easy cleaning.

 

[oconnor]

CTCs = Clearance To Combustibles. Let me show you some pics of my install so you can get a visual. I have about 4.5' of double wall stove pipe (8" outer diameter) which connects to a ceiling support box. This box penetrates the den ceiling and exits into a bedroom corner upstairs where the flue transitions to 6" (8" outer diameter) Class A. Then it passes through the attic (where you'll see an attic insulation shield to honor the 2" CTCs that all Class A must meet). From there it's out the roof!

Stove downstairs in the den:

Ceiling support box where the double wall stove pipe connects:

Transition from stove pipe to 6" Class A UL103 HT in the bedroom:

Into the attic with the radiation shield to honor the 2" CTCs:

From there it's out the roof with the flashing, storm collar, and rain cap.

Yes, I always forget to mention you gotta close up any Class A in a living space.

I assume by that Pagey that you have done further construction in the bedroom, and can't see the chimney pipe anymore - I'd hate to wack it with that door.

 

[Pagey]

Yeah, I'm just way behind on anything remotely resembling an updated set of pics. That door actually was prevented from hitting the Class A by the top of the cathedral support box that protruded into bedroom from below! :lol: Support box AND a door stop!

 

[PJF1313]

Ooops, I disagree. You certainly may run 45s with wood stoves, even 90 degree bends are allowed so long as you complete those bends in the black section of pipe. Once you go to class A (the silver pipe) you don't really want any bends and appear to be limited to 30 degree bends for offsets. Remember that every bend installed in your chimney system restricts flow and draft considerably so make every effort to minimize or eliminate all of the bends.

Remember that the stove pipe is only allowed in the same room as the stove. Your stove room is 20 feet tall even though the adjacent loft has a floor along that 20 feet. So you can run black pipe all the way up, 20 feet, to the ceiling of the stove room and then poke through the roof there. It would be a superior installation with no bends so good draft and easy cleaning.

Thanks Highbeam -
It was my understanding that you couldn't use anything over 30 deg. on wood. On oil or gas, yes, but not on wood.