New Install - Regency 2400

[MaineGuideMK]

I picked up this 2008 Regency 2400 for $600 on Saturday and installed it today. I'm super pleased with the stove. It's very different from any other stove I have ever used, but I like it so far. The secondary burn is very cool. This is the first stove I've ever used that has had those combustion tubes.

I'm posting a before of the old stove and an after with the new one. Thanks to everyone who offered advice and help.

 

[begreen]

Congratulations. I think you are going to really enjoy the light show and better stove efficiency.

 

[Woody Stover]

If you're getting a good secondary burn, your wood must be fairly dry...you should do well this winter. What layout and sq. footage are you heating? My brother's had that stove for years and has been happy with it. I think they have about 12-1300 sq.ft.

 

[MaineGuideMK]

If you're getting a good secondary burn, your wood must be fairly dry...you should do well this winter. What layout and sq. footage are you heating? My brother's had that stove for years and has been happy with it. I think they have about 12-1300 sq.ft.

Thanks. I hope so. I started cutting in April when things were still frozen. We didn't get much rain this year.

It's about 800 square feet. It's a ranch with three rooms. In the winter, the wind blows hard across the blueberry field right at the house. The back is on posts so I bank it with hay. It's a big stove, but it's my primary heating unit. I think I'll be able to get a nice overnight burn pretty easily.

 

[Woody Stover]

Is your insulation pretty good? My bro's house is stone construction, and probably has pretty good air-sealing, although he doesn't have new windows. I emailed him about the insulation in their house, and asked about burn times. He lives in WI so that should tell how the stove is able to maintain room temp in harsh winter conditions. But I'd say the 2400 should kick butt in an 800 sq.ft. house, no matter what Ma Nature may throw your way!

 

[Ashful]

Congratulations on your first tube stove. Better efficiency = more heat with less wood. You can't go wrong, as long as your wood is nice and dry, and your draft is strong.


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[stovelark]

Great update- I don't sell that brand of stove, but plenty of them around here in NE. Good luck with her.

 

[MaineGuideMK]

Is your insulation pretty good? My bro's house is stone construction, and probably has pretty good air-sealing, although he doesn't have new windows. I emailed him about the insulation in their house, and asked about burn times. He lives in WI so that should tell how the stove is able to maintain room temp in harsh winter conditions. But I'd say the 2400 should kick butt in an 800 sq.ft. house, no matter what Ma Nature may throw your way!

Insulation isn't the best, but the windows are newer. I'm a little under a half tank of oil after 2 winters in this place. Once I learn how to use this stove, I think I'll really cut down on the furnace running while I'm at school and my wood consumption.

Congratulations on your first tube stove. Better efficiency = more heat with less wood. You can't go wrong, as long as your wood is nice and dry, and your draft is strong.

Thanks. I'm really impressed with the new style of stoves. I can't believe people who buy wood are still burning those old stoves without tubes. Plus the controls seem much better. I don't think I'll need to use the damper on my stove pipe. I just hope it will still burn wet frozen wood if I need it to.

Great update- I don't sell that brand of stove, but plenty of them around here in NE. Good luck with her.

Thanks. I think it'll be a good one. I'm really impressed with the stove. I wanted a Jotul 118 CB or a Jotul 500, but for the price I paid, I'm very happy.

I will give an update on burn times, ease of temperature control, tricks and tips once the heating season really gets going.

 

[bholler]

I just hope it will still burn wet frozen wood if I need it to.

it will burn it but not very well and it will make a big mess of your chimney

 

[MaineGuideMK]

it will burn it but not very well and it will make a big mess of your chimney

Why would wet wood in a modern stove make more of a mess of my through wall metalbestos chimney than wet frozen wood in an old stove with only a baffle?

 

[bholler]

Why would wet wood in a modern stove make more of a mess of my through wall metalbestos chimney than wet frozen wood in an old stove with only a baffle?

because your old stove was a coal stove that put the air under the fire. It burns quick and hot which puts more heat up the chimney carrying the water vapor out better and that takes the creosote with it. Modern stoves do a better job of extracting the heat which means lower exhaust temps. And the secondary combustion will not work when the firebox is cooled by all of that water.

 

[MaineGuideMK]

That makes a lot of sense. I guess the only way to replicate the air from the bottom on a frozen stick would be to set it up high on the coals and crack the door.

That brings me to a question about the best way to clean out a stove pipe. I brush mine out two or three times a year. I wonder if there are tricks to it. Are there any old threads that discuss brushing out a metal chimney?

 

[kennyp2339]

The efficiency of new stoves send cooler flue gases in the chimney by design, cooler flue gases = more heat coming out of the stove hence the higher efficiency, if you burn wet or unseasoned wood your already going to have cooler flue gases which will be further cooler due to the new stove's design (full baffle, reburn tubes) and it will clog your chimney. Older stoves didn't have the baffle technology / properties to keep the heat in the fire box (which then radiates into the room either by radiation or convection, so they naturally let most of there heat up the chimney, so you could burn wet or unseasoned wood and still maintain a 350 - 400 deg flue.
Sorry I missed Bholler's update

 

[kennyp2339]

That makes a lot of sense. I guess the only way to replicate the air from the bottom on a frozen stick would be to set it up high on the coals and crack the door.

That brings me to a question about the best way to clean out a stove pipe. I brush mine out two or three times a year. I wonder if there are tricks to it. Are there any old threads that discuss brushing out a metal chimney?

Poly brush only if doing the traditional way, metal brushes can puncture the inside metal liner, also some member bought a soot eater which goes on a drill and are ecstatic about its performance, I use a poly brush with fiberglass rods and have no problems.

 

[bholler]

That brings me to a question about the best way to clean out a stove pipe. I brush mine out two or three times a year. I wonder if there are tricks to it. Are there any old threads that discuss brushing out a metal chimney?

Dry your wood and with that stove you will only be cleaning once a year at most. I only clean once every 2 years.

 

[MaineGuideMK]

The efficiency of new stoves send cooler flue gases in the chimney by design, cooler flue gases = more heat coming out of the stove hence the higher efficiency, if you burn wet or unseasoned wood your already going to have cooler flue gases which will be further cooler due to the new stove's design (full baffle, reburn tubes) and it will clog your chimney. Older stoves didn't have the baffle technology / properties to keep the heat in the fire box (which then radiates into the room either by radiation or convection, so they naturally let most of there heat up the chimney, so you could burn wet or unseasoned wood and still maintain a 350 - 400 deg flue.
Sorry I missed Bholler's update

Don't be sorry. It's great to read the same concept explained in a different way. I'd love to see a diagram or video explaining this. I understand that cooler gasses go up the pipe in a modern stove. But why? It's just the teacher in me.

 

[MaineGuideMK]

Poly brush only if doing the traditional way, metal brushes can puncture the inside metal liner, also some member bought a soot eater which goes on a drill and are ecstatic about its performance, I use a poly brush with fiberglass rods and have no problems.

Oh. I use a metal brush. Maybe I'll switch.

Dry your wood and with that stove you will only be cleaning once a year at most. I only clean once every 2 years.

Once every two years? That would be awesome.

 

[bholler]

I understand that cooler gasses go up the pipe in a modern stove. But why? It's just the teacher in me.

Because they have a longer smoke path in the stove because of that the heat has more time to work its way through the stove body and into the house. That is the simplified answer. There is allot more to it than that but it gives you the idea.

 

[bholler]

Oh. I use a metal brush. Maybe I'll switch.

yes you should. We use stainless bristle brushes on stainless. But now we are using a rotary cleaner more than anything else.

Once every two years? That would be awesome.

Most people do once a year.

 

[MaineGuideMK]

Because they have a longer smoke path in the stove because of that the heat has more time to work its way through the stove body and into the house. That is the simplified answer. There is allot more to it than that but it gives you the idea.

Okay. I'm going to look at some diagrams of my stove and try understand how the air is circulated. Thanks for the help.

 

[Woody Stover]

I don't think I'll need to use the damper on my stove pipe.

Generally, the pipe damper isn't needed unless your stack height is upwards of 25'.

I think it'll be a good one. I'm really impressed with the stove. I wanted a Jotul 118 CB or a Jotul 500, but for the price I paid, I'm very happy.
I will give an update on burn times, ease of temperature control, tricks and tips once the heating season really gets going.

Regency is regarded as a quality brand and my bro's 2400 looked well-built to me.