New Install

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PASmoker

Member
Oct 27, 2019
17
Nazareth, Pennsylvania
Just purchased a Jotul Oslo F-500 from a dealer and had them scheduled to install the liner\stove. Its going into an existing brick fireplace where I already cut out my damper and the stove is to sit on the hearth. Long story but they refuse to run the liner (they say can't touch the smoke shelf at all) Which now leaves me with everything in my living room to install myself. I didn't want to do the liner because of the height of the chimney (not great with these heights)
Most everyone I call is now booked for the rest of the year and can't fit me in or won't touch the stove because they didn't sell it...

Question: how hard is it to run the liner from the bottom up with it being insulated? its a large terracotta flue around 13x13 pretty much a straight shot with an offset at the bottom between the damper cut out and the bottom of the flue. I really don't want to fight with the liner at heights coming from the top down.

I don't think I will have an issue with the rest of the install its just the liner and not being comfortable with 30' heights.
Also do I void the Stove warranty by installing it myself ??

[Hearth.com] New Install
 
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You can get a nose cone that attaches to the end of the liner. Then you need a helper that's OK with heights to drop a rope to tie to the nose cone and he can pull the liner up while you feed it from the bottom. That's how we did mine, and yes it was insulated..that flue liner is plenty big enough for a 6" liner.
Hard to tell from a pic how bad that offset is at the bottom, but some liners (like my HD Roundflex) are supposed to be able to turn better.
You might be able to incorporate an elbow at the bottom, but the sweeps here can advise you better on that, and about the liner touching the smoke shelf.
 
The offset doesn't look too bad but an elbow may help. Otherwise Woody is right, get a pulling cone someone on top with a rope. We use a hoist but a rope will work. Pull it up through the top plate and attach it at the top. Then cut the bottom to length.
 
If the height is a concern, call around to some certified sweeps and ask if they will install the liner and block-off plate. You can use this site to help locate one.
 
This doesnt look bad at all. I was going to offer to come help but looked up how far away and 5 hours is too much.
 
Its hard to get any sweep or installer out this time of the year, its their busy season, that's why I scheduled this over a month ago. They left me the SS heavy flex liner, just need to insulate. The offset isn't too bad maybe 8" over a 3' length, at most would need a 45*.
I feel I would be OK pulling it up, just not wrestling it on the ladder pushing it down. They left me a 4' x 2' thick piece of special insulation to block off by the damper opening. Will need to find a nose cone online I guess..
 
Its hard to get any sweep or installer out this time of the year, its their busy season, that's why I scheduled this over a month ago. They left me the SS heavy flex liner, just need to insulate. The offset isn't too bad maybe 8" over a 3' length, at most would need a 45*.
I feel I would be OK pulling it up, just not wrestling it on the ladder pushing it down. They left me a 4' x 2' thick piece of special insulation to block off by the damper opening. Will need to find a nose cone online I guess..
You would get a 15 or a 30 not a 45. And use the insulation but make a metal plate to cover over that. And yeah we are scheduling well into December now
 
I pulled my insulated 6" liner up the chimney last night with just my 17 yr old son feeding it from below. With the old flue liner knocked out, I had an 8.5" x 12.5" wide opening. Fashioned my own pulling cone from a 45deg elbow purchased at home center. Put a threaded rod through the top part just below where I formed a cone, sliding a chain on the rod. Rope dropped down from the top. Took 15 min with him pushing and me pulling and no real problems at all. We had about a 30deg angle to navigate from below to get past the smoke shelf.
 
Installed ! Me and the wife were able to pull the liner up no problem. Hardest part was to get the bend right at the bottom so the tee was where it needed to be for the stove connection. Made the metal insulated block off plate and fired up the 3 break in fires.
Next day started my first top down fire, she got up to 600* in about 15min then throttled it down a bit and leveled off around 500* for a few hours (magnet stove thermometer was on the cookplate so these temps are probably less) .
Ended up saving the $800 install fee but put $400 back into the 32' ladder I needed to get up on the chimney.
Still want to setup a metal blockoff of the fireplace behind the stove and a metal shield for the mantel.
What is the max temp these stoves should be cranked up to?
Pics of the new stove, I extended the hearth so its clear of sitting in the fireplace, finding rocks that work is a real bi!$#

[Hearth.com] New Install [Hearth.com] New Install
 
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Running and cruising at 400-650 is normal. Temps up to 800 are ok but if your thermometer is off or you hit those temps too often I'd say you risk shortening the stoves life. 850-900 is too much for me. No parts of the stove should ever glow.
 
Very nice looking setup. Keep the stovetop below 750º and all should be well. And don't ever use the ashpan door for starting the fire.
 
Sell the ladder on craigslist for $350 if you don't need it or lack the storage space. That increases your savings. Or you keep the ladder so that you can check the cap annually for cleanouts.