New issue with P43

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NJnetguy

New Member
Oct 28, 2022
24
new jersey, usa
Hi- I’ve got a p43 - posted a while back about the stove’s unwillingness to shut down at 70° room temp setting.. well now we’ve got a new issue..

Last evening, with the stove set at 68°, I noticed what I can only describe as a really low flame in the burn pot.. like barely making over the top of the pot. I know this is normal at times during a burn cycle so I didn’t think much of it. The stove cycled off, then a while later turned back on . It took 3 cycles of pellets filling the burn put before it finally - and VERY slowly ignited. At this point I knew something was wrong as the flame on start up is usually high- up to or above the single fire brick - however upon ignition it again barely cleared the lip of the burn pot.

I watched for a while waiting for the flame to grow, it didn’t. In fact it seemed like it was feeding pellets at an almost alarming fast rate compared to size of flame / heat output . I might also add it took an inordinately long time for the distribution blower to kick on.

So, I turned the stove off, let it cool, and cleaned it. Not a full take down, but a good cleaning for a Friday night at almost 9pm. Checked gaskets, the hopper lid seal, etc.. all good. Vacuumed the burn pot, the ignitor chamber, impeller on the combustion fan. Restarted the stove.. same thing.. low flame super slow ignition.


So, I’m inclined to think it’s the combustion fan, but beyond that I’m stumped..
Maybe worth noting, the stove is 6 years old today - thanks Facebook memory- and I’ve not replaced anything yet
 

scajjr2

Feeling the Heat
Dec 9, 2010
256
Kingston, NH
Did the previous issue get resolved?

Could be an air flow issue, do you have an outside air pipe connected? If so try disconnecting it and see if the fire improves. If it does an obstruction in the piping somewhere.

Sam
 
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NJnetguy

New Member
Oct 28, 2022
24
new jersey, usa
Previous issue is bad temperature pot- there is a dead spot at 70° setting.. I’ve got new ones on the way, but wanted to wait until after the holiday next week to make the repair- as we are having a house full

I did take the OAK pipe off the stove and thimble and check for any obstruction- also went outside on a ladder to check and see if the intake vent was blocked - there were none outside or inside - the flapper moved freely and was closed when the stove was off..
 

Washed-Up

Minister of Fire
Nov 5, 2011
1,038
Kananaskis,Alberta, Canada
Sounds like it could be the combustion motor, when you do get it started, crank it up on stove temp and see if that makes a difference, it’ll run full boar for a while and if it’s not, that’ll help in the diagnosis
 

NJnetguy

New Member
Oct 28, 2022
24
new jersey, usa
I did try to run it on stove temp/ constant burn last night for a while- there was no change in the flame height

Also, there were no status lights at any point.

And, it took what I can only say was a MUCH longer than usual time to fully shut down
 
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Washed-Up

Minister of Fire
Nov 5, 2011
1,038
Kananaskis,Alberta, Canada
Ok when the stove is off, try vacuuming out the fan and vents on the combustion motor, maybe try spinning the fan blade to see if there’s any resistance or if it spins nice and freely
 

NJnetguy

New Member
Oct 28, 2022
24
new jersey, usa
Ok- so I just turned it back on, set to stove temp - again took three cycles of pellets into the burn pot before it ignited- will post picture of flame - which in my estimation looks more like a stove that’s about to just down, as opposed to just lit..

Last evening when I cleaned it, I did take the ash bin out, vacuumed the fan blades - it spun freely and without any impedance- probably for 30-45 sec to full stop.

Also vacuumed the second blades on the motor

At this point I’m leaning hard into the combustion blower, but I’m a woodworker, so I tend to second ( third and fourth) guess myself when it comes to anything mechanical..

9D308212-DE2E-4C19-9BC6-BE46C5705EE2.jpeg
 

johneh

Minister of Fire
Dec 19, 2009
4,383
Eastern Ontario
To my little brain, you are describing a dirty stove
Do a complete cleaning air intake to exhaust termination
All hidden ash traps to Clean all the holes in the burn pot
 

NJnetguy

New Member
Oct 28, 2022
24
new jersey, usa
To my little brain, you are describing a dirty stove
Do a complete cleaning air intake to exhaust termination
All hidden ash traps to Clean all the holes in the burn pot
I did most of it last night- with the exception of exhaust pipe, and fines box..

I will do those today
 

Washed-Up

Minister of Fire
Nov 5, 2011
1,038
Kananaskis,Alberta, Canada
If you’ve never done the leaf blower trick, it’s highly recommended
 

bogieb

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2014
3,178
South Central NH
Check that your air temp probe is fully pushed onto the connection pins. If it can't find the air temp, it is confused as to what to do (that happened to me once). Also check to make sure the temp temp probe didn't get moved too close to the side of the stove.

As far as the long start time, remove the cover to the burn pot, reach way back and to the left where the air comes in and see if there is a an ash dam. The vacuum will not necessarily get that out - and the implement may actually push ash back there and impede air flow.
 

NJnetguy

New Member
Oct 28, 2022
24
new jersey, usa
Check that your air temp probe is fully pushed onto the connection pins. If it can't find the air temp, it is confused as to what to do (that happened to me once). Also check to make sure the temp temp probe didn't get moved too close to the side of the stove.

As far as the long start time, remove the cover to the burn pot, reach way back and to the left where the air comes in and see if there is a an ash dam. The vacuum will not necessarily get that out - and the implement may actually push ash back there and impede air flow.
I’m fairly certain it’s not the air temp probe as it exhibits the same behavior on stove temp mode..
 

gfreek

Minister of Fire
Nov 5, 2010
1,589
WNYS
Update on this .? . Exhaust clean from the burn pot out ?? Fines box while you are at it.. ESP clean and or replaced ??
 

NJnetguy

New Member
Oct 28, 2022
24
new jersey, usa
Update on this .? . Exhaust clean from the burn pot out ?? Fines box while you are at it.. ESP clean and or replaced ??
I’ve got a new combustion blower on the way, when I take the stove off the hearth to remove/replace the blower I’ll do a full detailed cleaning.. as to when it will be delivered remains to be seen. We’ve been burning more wood than I’d like to be in the meantime..
 

rickwai

Minister of Fire
Nov 1, 2011
1,348
ohio
I’ve got a new combustion blower on the way, when I take the stove off the hearth to remove/replace the blower I’ll do a full detailed cleaning.. as to when it will be delivered remains to be seen. We’ve been burning more wood than I’d like to be in the meantime..
You should not have to move the stove to replace the comb motor. Also save yourself a ton of hassle and get a fan blade. They are less than $20. The set screws rarely want to come out. I replace the blade 90% of the time. Does the motor sound bad?
 

gfreek

Minister of Fire
Nov 5, 2010
1,589
WNYS
You should not have to move the stove to replace the comb motor. Also save yourself a ton of hassle and get a fan blade. They are less than $20. The set screws rarely want to come out. I replace the blade 90% of the time. Does the motor sound bad?
I have spare fan blade I rotate in when cleaning,,you will also need a 1/8 allen wrench, make sure it is fully seated in the set screw..note how far the fan is on the shaft before removal..
 

NJnetguy

New Member
Oct 28, 2022
24
new jersey, usa
You should not have to move the stove to replace the comb motor. Also save yourself a ton of hassle and get a fan blade. They are less than $20. The set screws rarely want to come out. I replace the blade 90% of the time. Does the motor sound bad?
I did order the fan blade as well. I plan to move the stove to deep clean it out side of the house..so I'll do the motor/fan when it's outside.
 

Montecarlossfan

Burning Hunk
Jan 1, 2019
158
Connecticut
You should not have to move the stove to replace the comb motor. Also save yourself a ton of hassle and get a fan blade. They are less than $20. The set screws rarely want to come out. I replace the blade 90% of the time. Does the motor sound bad?
Use high temp anti seize(copper) when installing new one, coat the shaft and threads...it'll make getting out easier every time. I take mine out every year to clean it and so far comes off every time. For the first time though definitely get a replacement fan blade when you replace the motor, I usually have to dremel them off the first time and if I am replacing the motor I just cut the shaft off the motor.
 
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rickwai

Minister of Fire
Nov 1, 2011
1,348
ohio
Use high temp anti seize(copper) when installing new one, coat the shaft and threads...it'll make getting out easier every time. I take mine out every year to clean it and so far comes off every time. For the first time though definitely get a replacement fan blade when you replace the motor, I usually have to dremel them off the first time and if I am replacing the motor I just cut the shaft off the motor.
100% agree. I have a Dewalt cordless oscillating saw w/ a carbide blade that I use. I try the set screw, if it is stuck I cut straight down the middle of the shaft and split the collar. A $15-20 fan blade is more economical than the labor rate to heat work to try to save it. Plus once you cherry the sheet metal fan with a torch Im sure it warps and degrades the metal. That is providing the set screw actually comes loose.
 
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NJnetguy

New Member
Oct 28, 2022
24
new jersey, usa
Well, I spent the better part of the day on the stove. Deep cleaned it- burn pot to the end of the exhaust, the fines box, the squirrel cage on the distribution blower as well as dismounting and cleaning the combustion blower and double sided fan. I did get the new blower motor and double sided fan, but as the pig tails on the new motor were substantially shorter than the ones on the existing motor, I opted to re install the old , now cleaned, motor and fan..

I set the stove to stove temp and let er rip. Same exact issues as before. Super long start up time, barely there flame upon ignition..

At this point beyond installing the new blower motor, which I’m not certain would do anything, I’m flummoxed. Truly hoped that cleaning, and reinstalling everything, it would solve my issues - sadly not the case.

In my reading two things have stuck out - one of which regarded the DIP switches, but the fact that I removed the circuit panel a few weeks prior to the current issues eliminates that- I think. The other was the factory position of the low draft/voltage screw.. apparently factory setting is 12 o’clock- I’m somewhere between 10 and 11.. not sure if that would cause what I’m experiencing. I feel like it’s something simple that I’m missing, and hate like hell to pay someone to come out and fix it, but at this point I’m not sure what to do.. pretty darn frustrating, that’s for certain.
 

shtrdave

Feeling the Heat
Feb 13, 2012
340
SW PA
Did you remove the plate under the burn pot to get all of that cleaned. Mine usually has a lot of ash in it. If there is to much the air from the blower won't get to the pot. Also take something and make sure the holes in the back of the pot are cleaned, the two at the top on the sides of the auger tube.
Lazy flame or little flame is air flow related to me, so if I had your issue I would be cleaning the pathway for the air from the blower to the pot and I would replace the motor and fan. Probably only 14ga wire get some short pieces and a set of male and female spade connectors.
 

NJnetguy

New Member
Oct 28, 2022
24
new jersey, usa
Did you remove the plate under the burn pot to get all of that cleaned. Mine usually has a lot of ash in it. If there is to much the air from the blower won't get to the pot. Also take something and make sure the holes in the back of the pot are cleaned, the two at the top on the sides of the auger tube.
Lazy flame or little flame is air flow related to me, so if I had your issue I would be cleaning the pathway for the air from the blower to the pot and I would replace the motor and fan. Probably only 14ga wire get some short pieces and a set of male and female spade connectors.
Yes spent a good amount of time on the burn pot, removed the plate, vacuumed out the chamber where ignitor lives as well as the two square tubes on the back of same “ chamber” - made sure all the tiny holes in the burn pot were clear, but I did not spend any time on the two holes by the auger tube- I will do those tomorrow, and get the wire and connectors to install the new motor. I have maintained all along that it’s an air thing, but just can’t determine what the cause is.