The problem is the flush insert. Assuming your insert had a face area of 12 square feet and a surface temperature of 700 degrees; you are emitting to the house only 8400 Btus per hour. This is like air conditioning the house with a window unit. If you have the money it is time to replace it with a extended on the hearth insert or a free standing stove. There is a reason flush inserts without the circulation fan are considered to be looking at stoves and not life or death heaters.
Thanks I should have noted I am using a mix of pine and hardwood once the fire is underway.
Also, I checked the manual and it confirms my observations about needing lots of flame for it to burn effectively. It says:
The pilot provides a small amount of air that burns up through the fuel load providing the heat and flame needed for the secondary system to ignite. The air tubes under the baffle need to remain lit off for low burns to be effective.
As you load your heater for a low burn, take care in placing the wood. This will affect how well your secondary system works as the wood is consumed. Do not block the pilot orifice. Stack wood so the pilot air can burn its way up between the pieces, helping your heater burn effectively throughout the low fire. This will reduce the visible emissions your heater produces and increase the amount of heat you get from the wood.
For those reasons, the type of fuel used (as opposed to moisture content) makes a big difference. More so than I expected. If I have a steady fire going, it produces more heat and secondary burn, when I am using fuel that produces high flame levels and keeps the tubes lit, than using a higher density fuel (dense hardwood) with less flame output that only results in primary burns.
So thanks to people that posted here and suggested looking into the fuel issues first.
But, I am still underwhelmed by overall heat output and still hoping the block off plate/insulation will improve it to the level I was hoping for.
If it is not clear already, the wood is dry. I don’t know how many times I need to say this.
I promise, I won’t bother you anymore. It seems like you put a lot of research into your project. Can you tell us , based on what research, measurements , facts, assumptions etc you know that your wood is dry.
Dry means less than 20 percent on the fresh split, not to touch ,by the way.
ok.. .. please post the moisture content of the wood tested.. what is the MC of the pine VS the hardwoods your burning. What moisture meter are your using. How are you testing the wood.. please explain..
That's a flawed premise, it only includes the heat radiated from the face of the insert. It does not include the surface area of the entire convection jacket, nor the velocity of air traveling over the surface of the stove inside the convection jacket. The instrumented, EPA tests for this insert showed a range of 10,710 to 57,628 BTUs/hr. With a full load of truly seasoned hardwood, it is capable of much higher peak output if pushed.The problem is the flush insert. Assuming your insert had a face area of 12 square feet and a surface temperature of 700 degrees; you are emitting to the house only 8400 Btus per hour
Just before I post photos, do I need to prove anything else? Is it possible that people will claim I don’t own a stove or that my matches aren’t matches? Please let me know all the things I need to prove so that I can deal with them all in one go.
LOL, I watching this thread just for the fun.Your word is good enough for me, you have yet to say how you determined the wood was dry, give me a reasonable determination and I will believe you.
Just a heads up ... Back on june 11th I suggested that you check the moisture of the wood your burning. Its 2 months later and you still haven't posted the moisture of the wood your using. Other members and I have asked you multiple times, your telling us the wood is dry with out actually checking it. As I posted back in June... Your making this as difficult as possible.. You couldn't be making this any harder than what your doing..Just before I post photos, do I need to prove anything else? Is it possible that people will claim I don’t own a stove or that my matches aren’t matches? Please let me know all the things I need to prove so that I can deal with them all in one go.