New member, looking for advice on wood insert vs. pellet insert.

[Mcuan88]

I have done a lot of research the last two weeks (and browsing this site!) to determine what I should install in my existing fireplace and looking for any advice. This would be primarily used as supplemental heating to try and offset some oil usage (maybe 1-2 cords per season?).

My home is a 1400 sq.ft. ranch with a central fireplace that cannot be used right now. Consulted with local chimney sweep and suggested a wood insert because it's less reliant on moving parts. Some friends + family suggest pellet insert due to easier accessibility (pour a bag, set thermostat), so that's appealing. Is the maintenance for pellet inserts more or less than wood inserts? I've read about scraping burn pots and emptying ash pans, but what about the bigger cleanings?

I would be always be buying wood since I don't have a ton of time with a young baby, but also looking into North Idaho energy logs to store in my garage (pallet = $550) or even Envi blocks. Time spent processing wood is a factor for now; I have a wooded back yard that I could go gather wood to add to bought piles. I understand purchased wood will need to dry properly, hence buying NIEL's for the first year.

Fireplace dimensions: 35" W x 29" H x 23"D
Chimney rep has a Regency manufacturer so I was looking into the I2450 or I2500.

Thanks in advance!

 

[begreen]

We've had both. A pellet stove is definitely more convenient. It can be connected to a wall thermostat so that it works like a furnace, which is exactly what it is, a mini-wood pellet furnace with all the mechanical and electrical complexities of one. If it's on a digital thermostat then it can warm up the area before you wake up and automatically go to a lower temp at a programmed time for sleeping. The bags are 40# each, so moving them daily is a consideration. We went through 1 bag a day in mild weather and 2/day in below freezing weather. The negatives for us were, the noise of its 2 fans running, large amount of plastic waste in empty bags with no recycling option, fragility of electronics, not working during power outages, and maintenance. I was able to service ours but if not, service calls would have negated any fuel savings.

A wood stove will work in a power outage, if your area has these occasionally. Depending on the choice, the are much lower maintenance. The heat and fireview is much nicer than a pellet stove's. Of the two Regencies the i2450 has a simpler, lower maintenance design.

 

[Mcuan88]

We've had both. A pellet stove is definitely more convenient. It can be connected to a wall thermostat so that it works like a furnace, which is exactly what it is, a mini-wood pellet furnace with all the mechanical and electrical complexities of one. If it's on a digital thermostat then it can warm up the area before you wake up and automatically go to a lower temp at a programmed time for sleeping. The bags are 40# each, so moving them daily is a consideration. We went through 1 bag a day in mild weather and 2/day in below freezing weather. The negatives for us were, the noise of its 2 fans running, large amount of plastic waste in empty bags with no recycling option, fragility of electronics, not working during power outages, and maintenance. I was able to service ours but if not, service calls would have negated any fuel savings.

A wood stove will work in a power outage, if your area has these occasionally. Depending on the choice, the are much lower maintenance. The heat and fireview is much nicer than a pellet stove's. Of the two Regencies the i2450 has a simpler, lower maintenance design.

I appreciate your input. The pellet bag weight is less concerning for me, but all of your other negatives are very valid. Most of all is the maintenance, whether it's weekly/monthly etc., and the electronic parts. That's what I don't know.

I don't mind doing some splitting (no gear currently), but I wouldn't be sourcing all of the wood from the property. Do you have any experience with the energy logs or bio bricks? I've only read reviews on these forums and they're favorable.

 

[Mcuan88]

I finally decided on the wood burning insert to purchase but came into a dilemma regarding the surround faceplate for the Osburn Inspire 2000.

Option 1: Narrow 4-sided plate 30" W x 26 7/8" H (Leaning towards this option with gaps around)

Option 2: Cuttable faceplate 50" W x 32" H (My installer can cut to size but it won't be a smooth cut)

Option 3: Matrix 2000 insert with backing plate (Same firebox, just different cast iron look)

My questions: Does it matter if there's a few inch gap between opening and insert? Are there benefits to leaving a 3-4" all around? Any cons? Is it just for aesthetics if there will be rock wool insulation installed to prevent back draft?

 

[stoveliker]

Rockwool should not be the sole thing used to insulate, as cold air will migrate through it (and warm air up).
If you have an insulated block-off plate below the chimney (i.e. air sealing the flue), face plate or not does not matter much. All aesthetics. Some folks even have an insert without a face plate.

 

[Mcuan88]

Rockwool should not be the sole thing used to insulate, as cold air will migrate through it (and warm air up).
If you have an insulated block-off plate below the chimney (i.e. air sealing the flue), face plate or not does not matter much. All aesthetics. Some folks even have an insert without a face plate.

Maybe I misunderstood my chimney sweep, but I believe he mentioned no block off plate was needed. This is an interior masonry chimney where the other side is the oil boiler exhaust.

Should I still inquire about block off plate and revise the quote?

 

[kborndale]

I finally decided on the wood burning insert to purchase but came into a dilemma regarding the surround faceplate for the Osburn Inspire 2000.

Option 1: Narrow 4-sided plate 30" W x 26 7/8" H (Leaning towards this option with gaps around)

Option 2: Cuttable faceplate 50" W x 32" H (My installer can cut to size but it won't be a smooth cut)

Option 3: Matrix 2000 insert with backing plate (Same firebox, just different cast iron look)

My questions: Does it matter if there's a few inch gap between opening and insert? Are there benefits to leaving a 3-4" all around? Any cons? Is it just for aesthetics if there will be rock wool insulation installed to prevent back draft?

Wouldn't you get more heat without a faceplate? I personally like the look better without it.

 

[stoveliker]

Maybe I misunderstood my chimney sweep, but I believe he mentioned no block off plate was needed. This is an interior masonry chimney where the other side is the oil boiler exhaust.

Should I still inquire about block off plate and revise the quote?

It'll be less important, but the chimney is interior only until it gets above the roof... What's the fraction of the flue above the roof vs in the home?

If it's brick above the roof, cold air will still get down between the liner and the masonry. Of course less than if the chimney was fully exterior.

My view is that it'll be better to have a plate, it does not hurt (other than the wallet) to have one, so I'd do it.
But this is a point that, with an interior chimney and rockwool decreasing (not stopping) air movement, one could compromise.
(The law of diminishing returns...)

 

[Mcuan88]

It'll be less important, but the chimney is interior only until it gets above the roof... What's the fraction of the flue above the roof vs in the home?

If it's brick above the roof, cold air will still get down between the liner and the masonry. Of course less than if the chimney was fully exterior.

My view is that it'll be better to have a plate, it does not hurt (other than the wallet) to have one, so I'd do it.
But this is a point that, with an interior chimney and rockwool decreasing (not stopping) air movement, one could compromise.
(The law of diminishing returns...)

I haven't gone up to measure, but I need a 15' liner, ceilings are just under 8 ft., and I have an attic. My best guess is only a small portion of flue is above the roof line. Majority is interior.

Appreciate all of your insight, I'll talk to my guy and see the cost of the blocker plate.

 

[begreen]

I appreciate your input. The pellet bag weight is less concerning for me, but all of your other negatives are very valid. Most of all is the maintenance, whether it's weekly/monthly etc., and the electronic parts. That's what I don't know.

I don't mind doing some splitting (no gear currently), but I wouldn't be sourcing all of the wood from the property. Do you have any experience with the energy logs or bio bricks? I've only read reviews on these forums and they're favorable.

I posted the reviews in the Resources and Wiki forum over a decade ago. Since then I have only dabbled in burning them in the T6. Cord wood is less expensive for me at this point.

 

[EbS-P]

You don’t need a surround. The rough cut edges can be concealed will some type of metal trim.