New saw needed

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pastera

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Sep 8, 2008
336
SE Mass
Was looking at either a CS 2245 ($270 @ tractor supply) or a Husky 445 ($310 local dealer)
Then the thrifty in me saw the Remington RM5118 for $190

The 2245 and 445 are the same under the hood, and the Remington is actually an MTD

The RM5118 has an adjustable oiler - not certain how useful it is in reality.
It also has a lower end that is separate from the saw case (not a clamshell design?) - again how useful?
Parts are cheap for the Remington but service is non-existent.

Husky dealer is half an hour away (but so is everything else having to do with civilization)

Husky can have the warranty extended to 4 years if you buy 3 bottles of premix (~$20)

Budget is important and that is the reason I am looking at the RM5118 but don't want a large heavy slug that doesn't perform. If anyone has first hand knowledge of the Remington saws that info would be greatly appreciated (junk or fine for a few cord a year)

So my choices are
1) 445 with the premix for a 4 year peace of mind
2) CS 2245 and I can have enough to pick up some chaps (don't flame I know I'm wrong)
3) RM5118, chaps and try to find the 16" bar/chain that I really want on the thing and still not kill the bank

I currently cut from my own land at 3-4 cord/yr of 75% pine, mostly standing dead 18"-24" with a few 12"-16" oaks thrown in. Was using a homelite 46cc crap saw until the ignition just went and I don't want to put $30 plus shipping into a $99 saw I don't like (too slow, vibrates, and the tool-less adjuster is the devil)


Thanks
Aaron
 
I know nothing about the Remington gas saw. Made by MTD seems a little odd. Some things to consider: Husky 445 is a homeowner level saw - $310 + tax seems high for that level. If you need much dealer parts/labor with a $200-$300 saw, you will exceed it's value in repair costs in short order. If you're somewhat handy, I'd learn to work on them and not be dependent on dealer labor costs.
If I had no saw right saw with budget considerations, I'd get a Chusky or Chihl. on fleabay. 52cc go for ~$90 shipped and 58cc go for $~139 shipped. (search "52cc chainsaw" or "58cc chainsaw")
I have 8 running saws currently and still thinking about getting a Chinese one for giggles.
I had a Homey 42cc ($89) and like yours, it was a POC in so many respects.
Maybe BB will chime in - he has a couple.
 
Go with a 545. You obviously cut allot of wood. Quality saw without the 'X'tra 'P'rice

(broken link removed to http://m.ebay.com/itm/221537010543?nav=SEARCH)

Ultimate firewood saw for them small pines.

Might bid on it my self.
 
In these days of having lean carb settings from the factory, the best peace of mind is to have the saw properly tuned by a competent dealer or someone who knows how to tune. I'd trade that for any extended warranty gained by buying a six-pack of 2-cycle oil.

For $199, the Poulan Pro PP2050AV (50cc) gets decent reviews for a low end saw. My first choice, however, would be to see what my nearest Husqvanra, Stihl, Jonsered, and Dolmar dealers have to offer as used saws in the 45-50cc range. Not all dealers offer used saws, and those that do will not always have them available at the time of your visit, but you might be surprised.
 
The Remington reviews I found suggest that it's reasonably powerful as cheap homeowner saws go, but also prone to early failure. The only recently-made Remington I have direct experience with was an electric saw, and it was toy-like. The 5118 manual indicates an operating speed of 8500 RPM, which I suspect is the where it makes the most power rather than the maximum RPM speed the engine is set for. It weighs 17.5 pounds dry (presumably including bar and chain) which is quite heavy for a 50cc saw. Neither the manual nor any other published specs seem to mention any horsepower rating at all.

For a weight comparison, I just grabbed my Stihl 026 and put it on my digital shipping scale. With a 16" bar and chain and the gas and oil tanks full, it's only 13.8 pounds. I suspect it will wipe the floor with any of the saws you're considering.

Like TreePointer, I think you'd be better off with a good used saw than a bottom-of-the-barrel new one. 3-4 cords a year, year after year, is not what these cheapie saws are designed to endure.
 
Looking on Craigslist, I found a Husky 440 for $100 and a Stilh MS290 for $175

The 440 is a consumer grade saw with no pics - not certain I even want to consider as it is about the same power level I had but price is enticing

The MS 290 looks pretty clean from the pics - all decals look to be in good shape and this is probably the class of saw I should be looking for.
 
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Yeah, that's quite a good price on the 290 unless something significant is wrong with it. Besides being a better saw to begin with, the 290 will also hold its value well in case you should decide to upgrade at some point.
 
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If you can afford around 425 you can pick up the Dolmar 5105 which is a commercial level saw. Max bar is 20". I have mine outfitted with a 16" bar and its a runner. Lightweight and high rpm. I also run stihls and like the dolmar just as much.
 
Looking at the ms290 tonight
Hopefully the pictures aren't of its "good side"
 
The main thing to pay attention to is the condition of the engine. If possible, take along a T27 torx driver, and remove the muffler so you can see the piston. If you can't do that, then run it for a minute, shut it off, and slowly pull the starter to get a feel for how good the compression is. Engine damage from straight-gassing or too-lean carb adjustment can exist even when the normally visible parts of the saw look great. If you're careful, I suspect you might get a good deal. Every one of my saws came from CL -- often needing work, but not always.
 
Ran the saw, slow pull on the starter just about pulled the saw from under my foot

Couldn't find anything obvious to say no to, so paid the price and it followed me home.

Will drain any fuel in it and put fresh mix in tomorrow and immediately bury it in a 24" pine log for giggles, umm, I mean a test
 
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No CAD allowed - the wife had begun noticing new additions and the kids are old enough to rat me out. I can hide a new gun for a little while but once the son sees the addition, it's discussion time ( hey dad, can I shoot the "other" one?)
Tools she already figured out that any new job doesn't automatically require an additional tool.
 
Problem is the wife doesn't care too much about shoes, as a good Portuguese woman her passion is cooking - no complaints about that hobby except from Doc during the physical
 
Congratulations on the acquisition, even if it's not pathological in nature. Let us know how you like it after tomorrow's test.
 
First impression before even using it is the case is as user friendly as the square cheap crappy saw cases.
I normally store hearing protection, a sharpening kit, and eye protection in the saw case. The Stihl case is too form fit to store anything.
However, if that is all I can find wrong, then I will be plenty happy with the saw and a bucket for the 'other' stuff
 
Did some clean up and testing
1 - the bar needed some tlc. It had never been flipped and needed to be filed badly.

2 - the 'new' chain must have cut through at least six feet of pavement at some time

Ground and draw filed the bar
Blew out the case with the air hose
Started her up sans bar - good oil flow
Lube bar after the cleanup (brake cleaner wash down during cleaning)
Install, tension and sharpen chain

Fired it up and adjusted the oiler to max as it wasn't slinging a lot of oil.
Tested it out on a 24" log I dropped last week and I can say it's a keeper.

Dropped a dead little six inch pine and it surprised me - saw had already cut to depth before I really felt it start cutting. Definitely going to speed up my processing.
 
Sounds like you and the saw needed each other. Good deal.
 
Sounds like the stuff. I cut 40 + cord with mine and its still asking for more. Work horse
 
No CAD allowed - the wife had begun noticing new additions and the kids are old enough to rat me out. I can hide a new gun for a little while but once the son sees the addition, it's discussion time ( hey dad, can I shoot the "other" one?)
Tools she already figured out that any new job doesn't automatically require an additional tool.
My kids went through that phase. I now tend to hide my stuff in the garage ( and they're old enough they don't want to be bothered with dad lol ). The wife thinks the 460 I just bought is saw #3, good thing she doesn't poke around in the garage at all to find the other 2. I had a 290 from new ( ran great except with 20" bar in hard wood it struggled a little ), sold it after 2 yrs and got a 391, then sold that and got the 460. Yes, I have issues...
 
Go with a 545. You obviously cut allot of wood. Quality saw without the 'X'tra 'P'rice

(broken link removed to http://m.ebay.com/itm/221537010543?nav=SEARCH)

Ultimate firewood saw for them small pines.

Might bid on it my self.

545 is a Great saw! The dealer recommended it over 455-460 rancher. Much lighter and very powerful just not as beefy. 545 is sort of a mongrel since it's a bit Xp and a bit landowner. The casing is metal and not plastic. I Bought a new one this past Wednesday. Just be careful when you take the side cover off ,that the chain brake is disengaged Per the instructions. I took mine off to clean and flip the bar but left the break on.. Let's just say you have 2 choices to get it back on. 1) Take it to the dealer per the owners manual
2) look on youtube for the solution.

I opted for option 2, just be careful the spring is thick and under tremendous tension it could stick into the wall if sprung
 
Took the saw for a ride today
24" pine, beetle killed, bucked to 16" without killing myself

It's a gas hog - will need to bring it in for a tune up. Otherwise, pretty impressed with the saw.
 
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