Well, today is the day. Osburn 2000 insert getting installed in my fireplace along with an insulated liner up the chimney, and just in time for the snowstorm tomorrow! I'm curious what everyone's thoughts are on break-in of the stove. I understand there is a "burn-off" period where some of the oils or finish with burn off causing a smell in the house. I'm wondering if it's better to burn a hot fire and just get it over with, or start small with a few smaller burns. Of course I'm going to feel it out at first and not start a raging inferno without knowing exactly how it will draft and burn, etc. But any tips for a total newbie would be appreciated. I've got seasoned hardwood mix and a pallet of bio-bricks as well. Thanks, looking forward to joining the club!
New Stove (Insert) Day!
- Thread starter emsflyer84
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Vg3200p
Minister of Fire
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
Best advice for a newbie is a temperature alarm. Auber at200 or wireless at210.
Paint breaks in better with a gradual warm-up. Do a small fire first with just some kindling and a couple of skinny 2" splits. Then make the next fire a bit bigger with a few 3" splits. After that do a good-sized fire with at least five 4" or thicker splits. Open a nearby window and use a fan to exhaust the fumes. After 2-3 hot fires where the insert has gotten over 500º, the paint should be well baked and the fumes should end.
Thanks all for the input, install went well and the stove is up and running! I did have a question on the air supply control lever. It’s an Osburn 2000. I’ve been playing with the air supply just to gauge the changes in the fire etc. at times I had the supply wide open and the fire seemed like it was going to go out. I’d open the door a crack and it would roar back to life. Then later when it was good and hot, I could close the air down basically all the way and it keeps burning well. I’m trying to figure out if pushing the lever all the way in completely cuts off the air supply, or it is just is a “low” setting for less air flow. Any inside into the air control would be great. Thanks!
![[Hearth.com] New Stove (Insert) Day!](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/c9d35258-eda4-4a8f-89ce-0d5cdde12b25-webp.305322/ "[Hearth.com] New Stove (Insert) Day!")
Caw
Minister of Fire
Modern EPA stoves like yours don't allow for the air to be completely shut off. When you close the air lever all the way there is still a small amount of air being allowed into the box.
FWIW I heat my house with an Osburn 1600 which is the smaller and previous generation model cousin of your stove. When I am cruising along the air is usually around 10% open. A lot of variables go into that like your chimney setup, home tightness and insulation etc. But just in general most of these stoves are designed to run full power with the air down but not all the way down. The goal being good secondary combustion while not wasting BTUs up the flue.
Similar threads
