Hey guys, I'm going to pick up a Fisher stove tomorrow and, was needing some info on them. I'll post a couple of pics. The price is 250.00, I think thats pretty good! It looks to be in really good shape. Anything I should look over really well before I commit? If you click on the pics it will show the whole pic!
New stove, need info?
- Thread starter RazrRebel
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Its going in a cabin on my property. No electricity, or roads only four wheeler or side by side access. Just wondering about the price. It also has the screen with it too.
Hey guys got the stove. Now I need some info on the install. I'm thinking of using flu blocks up the outside for the flu. I guess all I really need is a thimble for the wall and a pipe to go out to the blocks. The stove is 8" rear discharge. I'd like to cook on it in the winter too. Any help would be appreciated.
If you never built a chimney, research footer size (I don't know if you have a frost line to go below there) and make sure you stagger the flue liner joints between the block joints. You want the flue liner joints in the center of cement blocks so if it burns out, the joints are not aligned. If it goes below freezing, use air entraining mortar. Mixing is a little different to get air into it. The chimney must be three feet above the roof where it exits and two feet higher than any part of the roof within ten feet. This is for proper operation as well as code. The manual gives minimum clearances for each model for Sidewall, Backwall, and Corner installations as well as floor protector size. (Referred to as "Hearth Extension" in manual)
I have an off grid cabin as well, and with no water in remote areas, overkill is good to go above and beyond codes.
As long as you have the stove pictured, single wall pipe is permissible. The arched door with Model III designation requires double wall in horizontal installations. (not just code, but for proper operation as well) You need a damper in the first pipe section as well. 3 screws at each joint of connector pipe as well as at stove outlet. Page 12 in the manual gives masonry chimney requirements. (flue liners are available with precut hole for horizontal connector that cannot extend beyond inner flue wall; Thimbles must be cemented in place; Clean out with at least 6 inches of flue below connection; Connector pipe extending a minimum of 2 inches into flue connector....)
The single door stoves are more suited for cooking with much larger cook tops. You just can't use them for light without a homemade screen. My cabin is less than 800 square feet and solid logs. I heat with a Mama Bear. Baby would be perfect if it was used all winter and kept warm. It takes a larger stove than necessary when it's colder inside than out when you get there, and Mama has a larger top for heating wash water than Baby.
I have an off grid cabin as well, and with no water in remote areas, overkill is good to go above and beyond codes.
As long as you have the stove pictured, single wall pipe is permissible. The arched door with Model III designation requires double wall in horizontal installations. (not just code, but for proper operation as well) You need a damper in the first pipe section as well. 3 screws at each joint of connector pipe as well as at stove outlet. Page 12 in the manual gives masonry chimney requirements. (flue liners are available with precut hole for horizontal connector that cannot extend beyond inner flue wall; Thimbles must be cemented in place; Clean out with at least 6 inches of flue below connection; Connector pipe extending a minimum of 2 inches into flue connector....)
The single door stoves are more suited for cooking with much larger cook tops. You just can't use them for light without a homemade screen. My cabin is less than 800 square feet and solid logs. I heat with a Mama Bear. Baby would be perfect if it was used all winter and kept warm. It takes a larger stove than necessary when it's colder inside than out when you get there, and Mama has a larger top for heating wash water than Baby.
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